A visit to Japan was long overdue.. having visited most countries in the far east in course of our travel.We chose the Sakura season; to bask in the splendor of the beautiful cherry blossom. Armed with our Japan Rail Voucher we flew into Tokyo.
First Impressions...The scene at Tokyo Immigration made our hearts flutter ..there was a sea of foreign tourists and the space was certainly limited to accommodate us all.The Limousine bus counter was also chaotic,making us wonder... Is this the face of Japan? Little did we know then that this was an aberration.
We settled inside the coach for a smooth but long ride into Shinjuku in suburban Tokyo,to our hotel.Our bus glided past roads lined with trees,many of them Cherry blossoms,a feast for tired eyes.After some 3 Hrs we were let down in front of our hotel.It was nearly 9PM.Our hotel happened to be the meeting point for most tours commencing from Shinjuku and we had breakfasted and were ready to start our Tokyo sight seeing.Weather was a cool at 16C. Our Japanese Guide San spoke decent English as she and the Driver San took us around the exceptionally clean city.
(The most common title is San. It means all of Mr,Mrs and Ms. Mr Tito is referred to as Tito-san, as is Mrs Tito, and their unmarried daughter. Sensei, is for teachers.Correct use of titles is considered very important in Japan.)
First was Tokyo Tower, a symbol of Tokyo and a major sightseeing spot..It was built in 1958 as a broadcasting tower. Went up to the main observatory at 150 meters and spent some time enjoying a 360-degree panoramic view of Tokyo, such as high-rise buildings,the Tokyo Sky tree broadcasting tower which is more recent and taller,and also the Tokyo bay.It gives one a great sense of this sprawling metropolis with a population est of 36 mill for 2018.Before long we were down walking through one of the #Hello Kitty specialty brand retail stores at the base of the tower.It was spotless!
#Sanrio is a Japanese company that designs, licenses and produces products focusing on the Kawaii (cute) segment of Japanese popular culture. Sanrio's best-known character is Hello Kitty, a little anthropomorphic cat girl, one of the most successful marketing brands in the world. Their products include stationery, school supplies, gifts and accessories that are sold worldwide and at specialty brand retail stores in Japan and elsewhere.
On Religion,Shrines,weddings .....
Shinto and Buddhism are Japan's two major religions.Shinto is as old as the Jap culture while Buddhism came via China and Korea.Both co-exist and even compliment each other.A person may celebrate a local festival at a Shinto shrine, a wedding at a Christian church or chapel and a funeral at a Buddhist temple.However,religion does not play a big role in the daily life of people here.They just follow rituals at ceremonies viz., birth,weddings and funerals...they may visit a shrine or temple on New Year and other festival days. Shinto does not have a founder or sacred scriptures nor is there preaching. Shinto Gods are called Kami,sacred spirits that take the form of wind, rain, mountains,rivers,trees and fertility.The Kami of emperors and extraordinary people are also enshrined.Shinto is an optimistic faith,as humans are thought to be fundamentally good and evil is believed to be caused by evil spirits. Consequently, the purpose of most Shinto rituals is to keep away evil spirits by purification,prayers and offerings to the Kami.
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| Representation of Torii |
We visited the Meiji shrine dedicated to the late 19th-century emperor who opened Japan to the West. Tokyo's most famous Shinto shrine is wonderfully serene and austere,not colorful or flashy like other Asian places of worship.The 40 foot high iconic Shinto gate called Torii at the entrance to the 200-acre park is made of 1,500-year-old cypress,and there's a second one like it closer to the shrine itself. Also it it is surrounded by a massive forest of 120,000 ever green trees making it a peaceful oasis in the heart of modern Tokyo.
We stop at a cleansing station appointed with a water trough where we purify our hands and mouth using wooden ladles before we enter the shrine grounds.
At this point in our exploration two things happened.A mother and grandmother walked out with a baby in their arms after obtaining blessings from the Kami. There was a wedding ceremony in progress with the couple getting photographed and we the Paparazzi getting a picture any which way we could. The bride was in a white kimono and hood and the groom in his formal black robe.Our guide says...
Wedding in Japan is an expensive affair both for the couple and their guests.On an average the couple and their family end up spending 40-50K dollars for a wedding with about 100 guests.Cash gift is a Japanese wedding custom.If you are invited to a wedding in Japan, how much to give is usually indicated in the wedding invitation and are collected at the entrance by a wedding reception committee.The bills must be new,crisp and neatly enclosed (not folded) in a traditional “goshugi” envelope.An average gift amount will be ~ 300USD if the couple is a friend or a work colleague.The closer your relation to the bride or groom higher the amount suggested.For example, if you happen to be the direct relative or employer/boss of either one of the couple, the appropriate amount may be 500 -1000 USD.
So, the wedding procession went ahead of us into the shrine and we followed at a respectable distance,lest we be considered guests and........
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| Meiji shrine,Kami enclosure-Offering Hall |
At the above offering hall people threw coins into the Offer box,bowed deeply twice,clapped hands twice (to get the Kami's attention),bowed deeply once more and prayed for a few moments.
EMA are small wooden plaques,common to Japan,in which Shinto and Buddhist worshipers write prayers or wishes.They are left hanging up at the shrine where the Kami are believed to receive them.
At the end of these exertions we were back on the coach and commencing a drive-by... This is Akasaka guesthouse, a former imperial residence that functions today as the State Guesthouse for visiting dignitaries.A sprawling estate with very well manicured lawns and gardens.
Then came the National Diet building..Japan's parliament and center of government
We drove by the world famous Ginza shopping district with its ritzy glamour shops and department stores and also had a look at the Kabuki-za theater Kabuki is a classical Japanese dance-drama that originated in the 17th century.Kabuki theater is known for the stylization of its drama and for the elaborate make-up worn by some of its performers.Today,Kabuki appears in works of Japanese popular culture such as anime.Enjoying the drive by from the coach we feasted our eyes on gardens and foliage that we could set our eyes on.This is right in the centre of Tokyo.
Cherry blossoms were in full bloom
The Imperial Palace is located on the former site of Edo Castle, a large park area surrounded by moats and massive stone walls in the center of Tokyo.
Edo castle was the home of the line of Tokugawa shoguns.. who ran the Edo government which ruled Japan for roughly 260 years,from the beginning of the 17th century until 1867.It was the largest castle in Japan those days, symbolising the prestige of the Shoguns.It was also the center of political power.Currently,the emperor of Japan and his family reside here.(Read James Clavell's "Shogun" if you want a deeper understanding of this period)
What is also important to note is the level of cleanliness that we observed everywhere.It is surreal! especially to Indians.And the Japs work hard at it.Somebody is cleaning,sweeping,polishing,dusting something all the time.
The pride that they are Japanese is deeply entrenched.
The vehicles on the road..all look as if they have driven out of the showroom.
Inspite of the density, traffic flow is very smooth and quiet! Every one crosses only at ped crossing if they can help it. We will talk more about all this later.
Meantime,lunch was announced and we were taken to a spacious Food court.Lunch comprised of Yakitori (chicken in skewer)prawn tempura,sushi,salad and dessert.Some sticky rice was also served
On the right Menu displayed at one of the Eatery windows nearby indicating prices. But the writing is Japanese.
Lunch over we trooped back to the coach and for the afternoon we had a new female guide,who very politely went through the motions of explaining what was in store in the hours to come...
Before long we were knocking at the gates of Hama Rikyu gardens considered to be the city's best green space.It is a typical Daimyo (Jap feudal lord) garden of the Edo period with a tidal pond.
At the entrance stands a 300-year-old pine tree,which sprawls so huge that its limbs must be propped up. Viewing this majestic tree you contemplate the wonders of nature; how it can endure mostly unchanged in the face of monumental changes in human society.You can stand there appreciating the beauty of the tree, just as someone did 100-200 years before you.
It offers a Central Park like experience with Tokyo's skyscrapers towering in the background.
From the small mound inside we could get a panoramic view of the garden...the trees,ponds,bridges and tea houses.
As it is located alongside Tokyo Bay,the ponds contain seawater which change level with the tides.A traditional Jap style tea-house is on an island where visitors,who don't have to leave in a hurry like our group, can rest and enjoy the scenery over a Cuppa.
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| Nakajima No Ochaya tea house |
On this spring Sunday the garden was crowded though not as much as some others in the city as Cherry blossoms are in smaller numbers here..
The Hinode Pier was at a stone's throw and shortly we were lined up waiting to board the Ferry that would give us a 40 minute ride on the Sumida river and take us to Asakusa. The ferry was packed to capacity with tourists and we had no window seats.We crossed many bridges(12),each with a distinctive design and responded to the waving crowds at the banks.Eventually we moored at Asakusa and looked up at the looming Skytree standing tall at 630 meters! on the other side. A Ninja was a covert agent or mercenary in feudal Japan.The functions of the ninja included espionage,sabotage,assassination and guerrilla warfare.Their covert methods of waging irregular warfare were deemed dishonorable and beneath the Samurai(military nobility),who observed strict rules about honor and combat.Fading out to obscurity in 17th century Ninjas figure prominently in legend and folklore.Today,Ninja are stock characters in Japanese and world popular culture.
There was this Ninja who was waiting for us to show off his skills.He also obliged many by posing for them.It was a welcome break after the stifling boat ride.We had a brisk 15 minute walk in the crowded environs of Asakusa. Centuries ago,Asakusa used to be Tokyo's leading entertainment district; site of Kabuki theaters and a large red light district.
The large lantern at the the center of the Kaminari Gate is an iconic symbol of Asakusa. It is 3.9 meters high, 3.3 meters wide, and weighs 700 kilograms.The framework was created from bamboo and the shape was created by wrapping 300 sheets of paper around it. We reached the Nakamise shopping street,It is 200 meters long,full of small stalls selling Toys,Tees, souvenirs, local delicacies,kimonos,Jap Fans etc.People love to shop here as was evident from the crowds around stalls.We requested a couple of local teenagers to pose for us and they obliged.Traditionally,they love to wear their Kimonos to Shrines and temples. 
Slowly We have advanced to the second gate beyond which is the temple. This two tiered gate is also as impressive as the first. |
| Hozomon gate |
This is the Sensoji temple main hall with an adjacent five storied Pagoda with multiple eaves which is the most attractive part of the building.Two interesting rituals that people crave at temples here are as follows.
Smoke ritual...
In front of the main hall of the temple we saw many covering themselves with smoke.They believe it will make the body part function better.Many were found patting smoke on their head in order to make themselves smarter, brainier?
Fortune tellers...To get your fortune told you will have to shake a little container that is full of sticks,pick one and get your fortune from a little shelf that has the same number as your stick. Each fortune will tell you how your year will be.. Most fortunes are good with a few bad. But… don’t worry! In Japan, if you tie your “bad-luck-fortune” on a branch,it is believed that the gods will take extra care and watch over you, so you will end up getting extra good luck.So, the mystery of the tinny container noise that we were hearing all the while is solved.
We are now ready to bid adieu to Sensoji. But,Wait! who is this outside the gate? It is a Samurai! in his traditional gear.Another photo-op,indeed. |
| Hamburger anyone? |
Finally we were taken to our hotel at 8 PM.Oh,what a delightful,action packed day!
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Day 2...Mt.Fuji..Hakone
Weather was just the same as yesterday..a cool 16C greeted us as we stepped out to the coach.Today Kabe san was our guide.A middle aged man with mild/polite manners,a pleasing smile and decent spoken English were his attributes.We found out that he was also a good singer.To view Mt.Fuji we had to travel to Hakone on the express way..a distance of 80 Kms was covered in about 90 minutes with a break.After disposing of the prelims Kabe san spoke about * Hiroshi Yoshida (1876-1950)regarded as one of the greatest artists of the shin-hanga style painting, and is noted especially for his excellent landscape wood block prints.Well known are the different versions of the Acropolis in Athens, Sphinx in Egypt,Sailing Boats and Mt.Fuji series,Sumida River, Himeji castle, Kanchenjunga, Taj Mahal,Caravans from Afghanistan and maybe a few more.
Then,seeking our permission Kabe san sang patriotic Japanese songs along with the English translations too to keep us occupied.His voice had the quality of Bing Crosby or was it Frank Sinatra.
MT. FUJI is the tallest,most beautiful and revered mountain in Japan.Rising to a height of 12,388 feet,it is also Japan's most well known natural landmark,its most enduring symbol after the rising sun.An inspiration for generations of poets and artists who have attempted to capture its always-changing beauty which varies with the view,the time of day,the season and the weather. Mt. Fuji is a perfectly-shaped deep-crater volcano and measures about 40 kilometers around at its base. The Japanese once believed that Mt. Fuji was the center of the universe.It boasts over 13,000 shrines, and each year thousands of mantra-chanting pilgrims with jingling prayer bells,straw hats,pure white robes and white canvas foot mittens ascend to the top of the mountain,stopping at its stations to pray..
We were now negotiating the curves to reach the 4th level/station where we will make a stop for 30 min and view Mt,Fuji and its environs.
Here we are looking at Mt.Fuji from an altitude of 2020 meters ~ 7000 feet.
The weather did not permit us to drive up to the 5th or last level.There were atleast a dozen bus load of tourists and there was no time to explore the area. Kabe San did mention that the best time to view would be winter when the clouds will go away and sky will be clear and the Sun shining!
In another half an hour we had gone down to a Ninja village restaurant for our meal which was quite wholesome.
We then took the short boat cruise on lake Ashi to Hakone-en.Lake Ashi is a crater lake.While waiting for our boat we could see the Pirate boats in the distance.Our 30 min ride was relaxing and the scenery of lake and mountains was awesome..Pity we could not sight Mt.Fuji as it was all clouded up.
At Hakone-en we walked up to the Mt. Komagatake ropeway station.Though the cars could take 100 at a time we had to wait patiently for our turn along with our fellow tourists. We reached the top of the mountain(1800 meters) crossing a cedar forest in only 7 minutes,standing conveniently in the car.Going up we saw Mt. Fuji on the left and Ashi Lake behind us.
At the top our eyes were drawn to the red pillars of an impressive Shinto shrine which is a 20 min round walking trip.With this completed our second day came to an end and we drove back to Tokyo following the peak hour traffic on the expressway. Kabe san obliged us with more songs and the Driver san dropped everyone of his guests at their hotels though he was not required to do so.Not only that both of them bowed to everyone chanting Gosaimasu...
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A gleaming black cab such as this was waiting at the allotted parking spot outside the hotel making it easy for us.As soon as we approached, the driver eased the back rear door open automatically, for us to enter and be seated before we told him where to.Most taxi drivers that we used were 50+ guys who knew very little English, so we handed over the chit of paper with the name and address and he politely nodded his head and took off. Before we paid and got off he directed us to the gate. Gosaimasu...
We were early and beat the hoards. For 200 Yens a head we were let in and were skirting the lovely pond with well manicured shrubs and trees in bloom all around it.
Soon we were in the thick of action among the Cherry blossom.With over 60 varieties that are grown here,little wonder that there were as many locals as there were tourists.Someone is taking a Macro of the flower and others are on benches for a longer spell.
Plenty of students in graduation costumes were seen taking photos with the "weeping" CB in the background. Isn't she a beauty!!
There is no way you can be ever satisfied with time spent here among these marvels of nature..Kudos to the gardeners
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| Mt.Fuji from Kawaguchi lake by *Hiroshi Yoshida |
Then,seeking our permission Kabe san sang patriotic Japanese songs along with the English translations too to keep us occupied.His voice had the quality of Bing Crosby or was it Frank Sinatra.
MT. FUJI is the tallest,most beautiful and revered mountain in Japan.Rising to a height of 12,388 feet,it is also Japan's most well known natural landmark,its most enduring symbol after the rising sun.An inspiration for generations of poets and artists who have attempted to capture its always-changing beauty which varies with the view,the time of day,the season and the weather. Mt. Fuji is a perfectly-shaped deep-crater volcano and measures about 40 kilometers around at its base. The Japanese once believed that Mt. Fuji was the center of the universe.It boasts over 13,000 shrines, and each year thousands of mantra-chanting pilgrims with jingling prayer bells,straw hats,pure white robes and white canvas foot mittens ascend to the top of the mountain,stopping at its stations to pray..We were now negotiating the curves to reach the 4th level/station where we will make a stop for 30 min and view Mt,Fuji and its environs.
The weather did not permit us to drive up to the 5th or last level.There were atleast a dozen bus load of tourists and there was no time to explore the area. Kabe San did mention that the best time to view would be winter when the clouds will go away and sky will be clear and the Sun shining!
In another half an hour we had gone down to a Ninja village restaurant for our meal which was quite wholesome.
At Hakone-en we walked up to the Mt. Komagatake ropeway station.Though the cars could take 100 at a time we had to wait patiently for our turn along with our fellow tourists. We reached the top of the mountain(1800 meters) crossing a cedar forest in only 7 minutes,standing conveniently in the car.Going up we saw Mt. Fuji on the left and Ashi Lake behind us.
At the top our eyes were drawn to the red pillars of an impressive Shinto shrine which is a 20 min round walking trip.With this completed our second day came to an end and we drove back to Tokyo following the peak hour traffic on the expressway. Kabe san obliged us with more songs and the Driver san dropped everyone of his guests at their hotels though he was not required to do so.Not only that both of them bowed to everyone chanting Gosaimasu...______________________________________________________
Day 3...Local sight-seeing in Shinjuku
First up this morning we were visiting the Shinjuku Gyoen in our backyard.
We had heard about this exquisite and pretty park right in the heart of Shinjuku and we made this stop our starting point for the day.
A gleaming black cab such as this was waiting at the allotted parking spot outside the hotel making it easy for us.As soon as we approached, the driver eased the back rear door open automatically, for us to enter and be seated before we told him where to.Most taxi drivers that we used were 50+ guys who knew very little English, so we handed over the chit of paper with the name and address and he politely nodded his head and took off. Before we paid and got off he directed us to the gate. Gosaimasu...
We were early and beat the hoards. For 200 Yens a head we were let in and were skirting the lovely pond with well manicured shrubs and trees in bloom all around it.
Soon we were in the thick of action among the Cherry blossom.With over 60 varieties that are grown here,little wonder that there were as many locals as there were tourists.Someone is taking a Macro of the flower and others are on benches for a longer spell.
Plenty of students in graduation costumes were seen taking photos with the "weeping" CB in the background. Isn't she a beauty!!
The park's other main gardens include a symmetrically arranged formal French garden, and an English landscape garden featuring wide, open lawns surrounded by flowering cherry trees.
Local families had gathered in the park to take part in Hanami. Hanami literally means "flower viewing", however, it commonly refers only to CB viewing. From a distance,the trees appear as beautiful clouds, while the beauty of single blossom can be enjoyed from a close distance.For Hanami, groups come together to witness and celebrate the fleeting beauty of the CB.Both young and old relish in the opportunity to gather on mats and tarps and enjoy viewing and have a picnic.
It was a magical time to walk through the park as a tourist.We could see another side of Jap city folk,where men and women loosen up...are playful!
Leaves of CB scattered on the pond makes for a pretty picture.
We sat for a while in a peaceful,secluded spot and entered a coffee shop with convenient seating all around to sip a cuppa and watch the crowds go by.All good things come to an end with other activities in front of us,so we bid adieu to this wonderful park and exited..much to our hearts' displeasure.
Shinjuku is the world’s busiest train station,handling over 3.6 million passengers a day. The station has 36 platforms and over 200 exits; it is HUGE and more than a little overwhelming. It serves as an essential transit hub for the Tokyo rail and subway network.. While Japan’s famous bullet trains,which link the capital with Kyoto and other cities, do not stop at Shinjuku, cross-city trains can get you to these trains at Ueno,Tokyo and Shinagawa stations. Meanwhile, express trains connect Shinjuku with Narita Airport via the Narita Express (N’EX) rail service.
We spent some time casing the station to locate the platforms that we will use and then had a small meal.There are quite a few eateries...sweet shops,Sushi joints,juice shops et al at the station which were buzzing with activity.
We took the metro to Shibuya,not very far from here.At the underground metro,though it was past peak time,there were people travelling and they had formed a queue at the designated spots on the platform. Everything is very orderly in this country. The platforms and the coaches are spotlessly clean notwithstanding the crowds that use them.Haven't I said enough...It would be a shame to come to Tokyo and not witness the Shibuya crossing. As we approached this point and looked all around we could see the area packed with commuters,students,shoppers and young couples.When the lights turned red at this junction,they all turn red at the same time in all direction.Traffic stops in all the 5 roads completely and pedestrians surge into the intersection from all the sides like marbles spilling out of a box.It is a 2 minute cycle and this allows thousands to cross during peak times quickly.Pedestrian crossings like these are referred to as a scramble crossing as the traffic is stopped in all directions to allow pedestrians to walk (scramble) through the intersection.Take a look at this video.
Many commercial establishments,shops and the Station in one corner contributes to the mass of people at this junction.You might well expect chaos with thousands of people walking in different directions in a confined space.However the people of Tokyo are used to walking in crowded places and the Japanese people are very polite,so generally the pedestrian flow is smooth.
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We browsed at Tokyu dept store and went back to shinjuku station.Slowly walked back to the hotel after grabbing some snacks and coffee on the way.
Our first stop in the afternoon was the Tokyo Metropolitan Government buildings.This 400,000 square meter complex,comprising two identical 48 storey behemoths, is where Tokyo city is administered from,each with a viewing platform on the 45th floor that you can visit for free.At a walking distance from our hotel there was a mile long queue before the basement lift,all wanting to see Tokyo from an elevation.The high speed lift made short work of taking us up and and before long we were gazing at the buildings outside the enclosure.
Exploring Nightlife in Shinjuku...
Kabukicho is an entertainment and red-light district in Shinjuku. It is the location of many clubs,love hotels, restaurants and night clubs and is called the "Sleepless Town". And at one corner of Kabukicho is Golden Ghai. We hailed a taxi to take us there. Golden Gai doesn’t contain any grand buildings or monuments,but is simply a tiny fragment of old Tokyo that has miraculously survived,albeit hemmed in and dwarfed by high rise developments all around..It has six tiny alleys lined with almost two hundred tiny bars. The buildings are ramshackle,and the alleys dimly lit. Each building is only a few feet wide,and abuts the next. The bars advertise themselves with a mix of artwork and logos adding to their mystique,and making the passer-by wonder what’s to be found inside.
Each bar caters to a slightly different clientele,and many only serve regulars.A few openly welcome foreign guests with signs and menus set outside listing prices in English.After a round of the alleys we entered one which was reached by way of a stairway and saw a few people there..we chose a corner and sat down.
We ordered Sake from the lady bartender who obliged.Next to us were Swedish tourists from Gottenburg with whom we got taking.We shared some "chiwda" with both the bartender and the Swedes who were happy with its strong taste.we spent 30 minutes chatting and drinking and bid adieu leaving the chiwda behind since they enjoyed it and asked us for the recipe..Here is a last look at Tokyo by night at street level and we will depart for Kyoto first thing in the morning.
Legayi Dil.........Arigato Gosaimasu Tokyo..will surely visit you again.
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Room sizes
Care and courtesy,helpfulness.discipline,cleanliness everywhere
Shinkansen experience to kyoto..walk from stn to hotel and help from a stranger,stations,how the coache stop in front of the gate.
Hiroshima day..experience with guide etc
Kobe and reaching Osaka
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