Let me transport you to a fairy tale setting......
It is a broad and beautiful street full of fine houses.They belong to rich merchants who deal in Rubies,Emeralds,Pearls and Diamonds and every other sort of thing you may wish to buy.
Here you are amidst people of all nations...people of the world,because of the Trade that is carried out.
You cannot fathom the size of this city... unless you get on top of a hill nearby from where you can see a great part of it.It resembles Rome, as grand and as beautiful...with its groves,gardens and conduits of water flowing.There are lakes and palaces too!
Nearby flows a large river with streams flowing into it....full of marine life.
Thus wrote Domingo Paes in 1522 about the capital of Vijayanagar....Hampi, 26 Sq.Km in all
And in 1565,after 250 glorious years,a federation of Muslim rulers from Deccan sacked the kingdom
They destroyed with savage vengeance all that was created by Krishna Deva Raya and others before him,slaughtered people without mercy, pillaged and looted...Never before in the history of the world had such havoc been wrought, and wrought so suddenly, on so splendid a city as Hampi.
Hospet is the nearest rail head,300 Kms from Bangalore,and the ruins of Hampi is just a stone's throw away.
What struck me as the Auto tut-tutted on its way was that the place looked different with an undulating topography. Soon we found ourselves in the midst of rocks and boulders of many sizes and shapes scattered all around us.Here is one great example
We started our tour with the Vripuksha temple...in other words a Shiva temple which is the only one which stands without damage and is used for worship. It stands next to Tungabadra river and is considered the most sacred of the temples here.This temple has an uninterrupted history from about the 7th century.
Yet another look at the ruins among huge boulders....hallmark of Hampi.
This enormous sculpture of Ugra Narasimha, Narasimha of terrifying countenance, was executed in 1528 during the rule of Krishnadevaraya. Originally, the icon bore a small image of Lakshmi on his lap. This gigantic image, 6.7 meters in height, was mutilated and the figure of Lakshmi was entirely damaged and vandalized in 1565. Nevertheless Narasimha retains his awesome charm. He is seated on the coils of the snake Adisesha
Zenana enclosure was a secluded area reserved for the royal women. The Queen’s Palace was located in the middle of this area, and today only the base is visible upon excavation. The super structure was perhaps made of wood or less durable materials compared to the stone base and was destroyed during the siege..
Three watchtowers,such as this, could be seen at the corners of the enclosed area.
Undoubtedly a very photogenic and one of the most photographed buildings at Hampi.
Lotus Mahal was a socializing area for the women folks in the royal family inside the Zenana encl.It was left reasonably undamaged during the siege of the city.
The archways and the balcony with the domed construction resemble a half opened lotus bud.The decorations and architecture is a curious mix of Hindu and Islamic styles.
Proceeding further from Lotus Mahal we come across Elephant Stable...a shelter for the royal elephants. This long structure is made of a series of chambers with dome shaped roofs. Each chamber is big enough to accommodate two elephants.
Guard’s Quarters is located right next to the elephant stable.This probably was a ceremonial building made of finely made arches. The archaeological dept. uses this space today to store stone sculptures and other artifacts excavated from the ruins.Interesting..
Continuing with our trip we stop at the Hazara Rama temple...a thousand Ramas.The stories of Ramayana are carved, in long arrays, onto the walls of this temple.This temple at the heart of the Royal enclosure was functioning as a private temple for the king, and the royal family. Probably this is the only temple in the capital with its external walls decorated with friezes.
Notice the uniformly beheaded Idols except for the central figures which would be Rama and Sita. Even here the faces have been disfigured.Pity...It is such a beautiful carving and sculpture.
Leaving the Rama temple we cross over to the Royal enclosure, a large area where everything is razed to ground except the Mahanavami Dibba which still stands tall amongst its neighbors of stone and sand.
The sides of this three layered platform is a chain of sculptures.... These carvings depict any thing from the royal ceremony to the city life to the visit of foreign envoys to the kingdom.
The king used this platform to watch the army march-pasts, war games, aquatic sports, shows of the royal animals, musical performances and also the most important Navarathri celebrations. And where the Governors of various provinces visited the king to pledge their loyalty.
A Stepped tank ...Pushkarni used by the Royals for ceremonial purposes,was excavated fairly recently.Water was brought from the river by an elaborate system of aqua ducts.
After a spot of lunch,it was over to Vitthala temple...Vitthala being Krishna avataar of Vishnu.Legend has it that the present Pandarpur statue was brought over from Hampi prior to the sack.Originally built in the period 1422-46 substantial portions of the present structure were added during Krihnadevaraya's reign.
The stone chariot at the entrance is the tourist attraction here. This is not a chariot,as the name suggests,rather a shrine for Garuda built like a chariot.
Let's take a look at the shrine as it appeared in the 19th century
And 150 years later..
As we enter the first cave dedicated to Lord Shiva there is a
five foot image of Nataraja, with 18 arms, depicting several dancing
poses or mudras.
The last cave has an image of the Mahavira in the inner sanctum and carvings of other Thirthankaras.This cave was sculpted much later
This exquisite sculpture of a dancer has seemingly come to life, as she crosses her legs in a graceful pose. The drum-like object at her back is too worn to make out clearly, but the modeling of her body and limbs and the delicate trace of her garments is a marvel.
After a visit to Tungabadra dam the next day we returned home.
_______________________________________________________________________
It is a broad and beautiful street full of fine houses.They belong to rich merchants who deal in Rubies,Emeralds,Pearls and Diamonds and every other sort of thing you may wish to buy.
Here you are amidst people of all nations...people of the world,because of the Trade that is carried out.
You cannot fathom the size of this city... unless you get on top of a hill nearby from where you can see a great part of it.It resembles Rome, as grand and as beautiful...with its groves,gardens and conduits of water flowing.There are lakes and palaces too!
Nearby flows a large river with streams flowing into it....full of marine life.
Thus wrote Domingo Paes in 1522 about the capital of Vijayanagar....Hampi, 26 Sq.Km in all
And in 1565,after 250 glorious years,a federation of Muslim rulers from Deccan sacked the kingdom
They destroyed with savage vengeance all that was created by Krishna Deva Raya and others before him,slaughtered people without mercy, pillaged and looted...Never before in the history of the world had such havoc been wrought, and wrought so suddenly, on so splendid a city as Hampi.
Hospet is the nearest rail head,300 Kms from Bangalore,and the ruins of Hampi is just a stone's throw away.
What struck me as the Auto tut-tutted on its way was that the place looked different with an undulating topography. Soon we found ourselves in the midst of rocks and boulders of many sizes and shapes scattered all around us.Here is one great example
 |
| See the barbed wire fencing at the bottom to get a feel of the size of the rock..Massive! |
We started our tour with the Vripuksha temple...in other words a Shiva temple which is the only one which stands without damage and is used for worship. It stands next to Tungabadra river and is considered the most sacred of the temples here.This temple has an uninterrupted history from about the 7th century.
 |
| Mythical Yali |
Yali is a mythical creature often seen sculpted on the
pillars of many Hindu temples especially in the south. Common belief is that the Yali protects and guards the temple.It is said to have a graceful body,the head of a lion with
tusks of an elephant and a tail of a snake.
 |
| Tungabadra river,next to the temple |
Kadalekalu Ganesha. The
huge seated God,carved out of a massive boulder,
is about 4.5 metres high and is housed in a large shrine with
a fine open pillared mandapam in front.Kadalekalu meaning Bengal Gram refers to the shape of his stomach
|
||
Yet another look at the ruins among huge boulders....hallmark of Hampi.
This enormous sculpture of Ugra Narasimha, Narasimha of terrifying countenance, was executed in 1528 during the rule of Krishnadevaraya. Originally, the icon bore a small image of Lakshmi on his lap. This gigantic image, 6.7 meters in height, was mutilated and the figure of Lakshmi was entirely damaged and vandalized in 1565. Nevertheless Narasimha retains his awesome charm. He is seated on the coils of the snake Adisesha
Zenana enclosure was a secluded area reserved for the royal women. The Queen’s Palace was located in the middle of this area, and today only the base is visible upon excavation. The super structure was perhaps made of wood or less durable materials compared to the stone base and was destroyed during the siege..
Three watchtowers,such as this, could be seen at the corners of the enclosed area.
Undoubtedly a very photogenic and one of the most photographed buildings at Hampi.
Lotus Mahal was a socializing area for the women folks in the royal family inside the Zenana encl.It was left reasonably undamaged during the siege of the city.
The archways and the balcony with the domed construction resemble a half opened lotus bud.The decorations and architecture is a curious mix of Hindu and Islamic styles.
Proceeding further from Lotus Mahal we come across Elephant Stable...a shelter for the royal elephants. This long structure is made of a series of chambers with dome shaped roofs. Each chamber is big enough to accommodate two elephants.
Guard’s Quarters is located right next to the elephant stable.This probably was a ceremonial building made of finely made arches. The archaeological dept. uses this space today to store stone sculptures and other artifacts excavated from the ruins.Interesting..
Continuing with our trip we stop at the Hazara Rama temple...a thousand Ramas.The stories of Ramayana are carved, in long arrays, onto the walls of this temple.This temple at the heart of the Royal enclosure was functioning as a private temple for the king, and the royal family. Probably this is the only temple in the capital with its external walls decorated with friezes.
Notice the uniformly beheaded Idols except for the central figures which would be Rama and Sita. Even here the faces have been disfigured.Pity...It is such a beautiful carving and sculpture.
Leaving the Rama temple we cross over to the Royal enclosure, a large area where everything is razed to ground except the Mahanavami Dibba which still stands tall amongst its neighbors of stone and sand.
 |
| Krishna Deva Raya |
The sides of this three layered platform is a chain of sculptures.... These carvings depict any thing from the royal ceremony to the city life to the visit of foreign envoys to the kingdom.
The king used this platform to watch the army march-pasts, war games, aquatic sports, shows of the royal animals, musical performances and also the most important Navarathri celebrations. And where the Governors of various provinces visited the king to pledge their loyalty.
A Stepped tank ...Pushkarni used by the Royals for ceremonial purposes,was excavated fairly recently.Water was brought from the river by an elaborate system of aqua ducts.
After a spot of lunch,it was over to Vitthala temple...Vitthala being Krishna avataar of Vishnu.Legend has it that the present Pandarpur statue was brought over from Hampi prior to the sack.Originally built in the period 1422-46 substantial portions of the present structure were added during Krihnadevaraya's reign.
The stone chariot at the entrance is the tourist attraction here. This is not a chariot,as the name suggests,rather a shrine for Garuda built like a chariot.
Let's take a look at the shrine as it appeared in the 19th century
 |
| 1868 |
Notably,the terracotta superstructure of the Stone Chariot has crashed or
was pulled down for some reason, probably to save the rest
form collapsing.
___________________________________________________________________________
We travel to Badami....a distance of 150 Kms is covered in about 3hrs as we travel over a spanking new highway and through some old roads passing through fertile fields of rice,
cotton, corn and sunflower.
Here again we see hillocks of boulders....Superb!
And as we approached, the first sight that overwhelms is Badami’s spectacular rock
face. The scale of the cliff is awesome. This is the start of a
gorge with soaring rock faces on both sides,and a water tank—the Agastya
Tirtha—in the center. Unlike Hampi’s scattered boulder hills, this is a sole structure
that climbs along a vertical line towards the sky.WOW!!!
We eagerly set forth to explore the four rock-cut cave temples carved in the 6th and 7th
centuries. Badami was the capital of the early Chalukyas who ruled much of
Northern Karnataka in this period.
A pillared and bracketed veranda, columned
hall and inner sanctum form the basic structure of the cave temples, but the
carvings are particular to each.
There is some climbing to do from one cave to another, and we take it at our own pace,enjoying the enormity of the rocks around us and the vista beyond.
The dense
darkness of the caves makes one linger on the verandas a bit longer, admiring the
intricate sculptures and carvings on the pillars and stone here.
Other than Shiva we see Vishnu, who is seated on a coiled
serpent in one cave. Indra and Brahma are also depicted along with carvings of romancing couples. These ‘happy couples’
document the jewellery and costume popular in Deccani times.
The last cave has an image of the Mahavira in the inner sanctum and carvings of other Thirthankaras.This cave was sculpted much later
Badami,
with its sculptures and breathtaking vistas, is a must-see for both
the scholarly and the tourist. We lingered at each level of the ascent and
soaked in views of both the rock face and the panorama it towers over. Here is a view of the sacred lake Agasthya Thirtha and beyond
And on the side of the road below, you can catch a glimpse of a
16th century perfectly-domed mosque.
After this magnificent treat we were taken to two other locations in the vicinity. They were Pattadakal and Aihole which we covered in the next hour to see temple complexes of the Chalukya period.
Some examples below
This exquisite sculpture of a dancer has seemingly come to life, as she crosses her legs in a graceful pose. The drum-like object at her back is too worn to make out clearly, but the modeling of her body and limbs and the delicate trace of her garments is a marvel.
_______________________________________________________________________
While
getting to Badami from Hampi, both historical sites in Karnataka, one
traverses a landscape abundant in cotton, corn and the sunflower crop.
Traffic comprises mainly heavy vehicles and trucks carrying unearthed
ores from this mineral rich district.
As you approach the town, the first sight that overwhelms you is Badami’s spectacular rock face. The sandstone hill glows mellow in the afternoon sun. The scale of the cliff inspires immediate awe. This is the start of a gorge with soaring rock faces on both sides, and a water tank—the Agastya Tirtha—in the center. Unlike Hampi’s boulder hills, this is a sole structure that climbs along a vertical line to the sky.
Directly in front of the car park in Badami is Cave no 1, at whose entrance awaits a posse of monkeys and pilgrims. ‘Beware of monkeys’ says a sign as you start the ascent, and I put away all eatables in caution. The guide armed himself with a long staff in defense.
I eagerly set forth to explore the four rock-cut cave temples carved in the 6th and 7th centuries. Our guide was a stubborn gentleman who soon bored us with repetitive, unimaginative talk, as he rattled off names of Chalukya kings long gone. Badami was the capital of the early Chalukyas who ruled much of Northern Karnataka between the 6th and 8th century.
Badami, with its virtuoso sculptures and breathtaking vistas, is a must visit for both the scholarly and the regular tourist. Linger on each level of the ascent and soak in views of both the rock face and the panorama it towers over. Parted by a millennium, on the other side of the road below, you can catch a glimpse of a 16th century perfectly-domed mosque.
Next up are the temples; even if you are not familiar with Hindu and Jain art, a stroll through the temples is a must. A pillared and bracketed veranda, columned hall and inner sanctum form the basic structure of the temples, but the carvings are particular to each. There’s a lot of climbing from one cave to another, so make sure your footwear and clothes are comfortable and tough.
The dense darkness of the caves makes one linger on the verandas a bit longer, where intricate sculptures and carvings are present. The caves have sculptures of Nataraja—an 18-handed dancing Shiva—and Vishnu, who is seated on a coiled serpent in one place. Some of the other Hindu gods depicted in these caves were Indra and Brahma, and carvings of romancing couples. These ‘happy couples’ document the jewellery and costume popular in Deccani times. The last cave is a Jain cave and has an image of the Mahavir in the inner sanctum and carvings of othertirthankaras in the cave.
- See more at: http://www.cntraveller.in/story/jewelled-hills-badami#sthash.ImqM1VN5.dpuf
As you approach the town, the first sight that overwhelms you is Badami’s spectacular rock face. The sandstone hill glows mellow in the afternoon sun. The scale of the cliff inspires immediate awe. This is the start of a gorge with soaring rock faces on both sides, and a water tank—the Agastya Tirtha—in the center. Unlike Hampi’s boulder hills, this is a sole structure that climbs along a vertical line to the sky.
Directly in front of the car park in Badami is Cave no 1, at whose entrance awaits a posse of monkeys and pilgrims. ‘Beware of monkeys’ says a sign as you start the ascent, and I put away all eatables in caution. The guide armed himself with a long staff in defense.
I eagerly set forth to explore the four rock-cut cave temples carved in the 6th and 7th centuries. Our guide was a stubborn gentleman who soon bored us with repetitive, unimaginative talk, as he rattled off names of Chalukya kings long gone. Badami was the capital of the early Chalukyas who ruled much of Northern Karnataka between the 6th and 8th century.
Badami, with its virtuoso sculptures and breathtaking vistas, is a must visit for both the scholarly and the regular tourist. Linger on each level of the ascent and soak in views of both the rock face and the panorama it towers over. Parted by a millennium, on the other side of the road below, you can catch a glimpse of a 16th century perfectly-domed mosque.
Next up are the temples; even if you are not familiar with Hindu and Jain art, a stroll through the temples is a must. A pillared and bracketed veranda, columned hall and inner sanctum form the basic structure of the temples, but the carvings are particular to each. There’s a lot of climbing from one cave to another, so make sure your footwear and clothes are comfortable and tough.
The dense darkness of the caves makes one linger on the verandas a bit longer, where intricate sculptures and carvings are present. The caves have sculptures of Nataraja—an 18-handed dancing Shiva—and Vishnu, who is seated on a coiled serpent in one place. Some of the other Hindu gods depicted in these caves were Indra and Brahma, and carvings of romancing couples. These ‘happy couples’ document the jewellery and costume popular in Deccani times. The last cave is a Jain cave and has an image of the Mahavir in the inner sanctum and carvings of othertirthankaras in the cave.
- See more at: http://www.cntraveller.in/story/jewelled-hills-badami#sthash.ImqM1VN5.dpuf
While
getting to Badami from Hampi, both historical sites in Karnataka, one
traverses a landscape abundant in cotton, corn and the sunflower crop.
Traffic comprises mainly heavy vehicles and trucks carrying unearthed
ores from this mineral rich district.
As you approach the town, the first sight that overwhelms you is Badami’s spectacular rock face. The sandstone hill glows mellow in the afternoon sun. The scale of the cliff inspires immediate awe. This is the start of a gorge with soaring rock faces on both sides, and a water tank—the Agastya Tirtha—in the center. Unlike Hampi’s boulder hills, this is a sole structure that climbs along a vertical line to the sky.
Directly in front of the car park in Badami is Cave no 1, at whose entrance awaits a posse of monkeys and pilgrims. ‘Beware of monkeys’ says a sign as you start the ascent, and I put away all eatables in caution. The guide armed himself with a long staff in defense.
I eagerly set forth to explore the four rock-cut cave temples carved in the 6th and 7th centuries. Our guide was a stubborn gentleman who soon bored us with repetitive, unimaginative talk, as he rattled off names of Chalukya kings long gone. Badami was the capital of the early Chalukyas who ruled much of Northern Karnataka between the 6th and 8th century.
Badami, with its virtuoso sculptures and breathtaking vistas, is a must visit for both the scholarly and the regular tourist. Linger on each level of the ascent and soak in views of both the rock face and the panorama it towers over. Parted by a millennium, on the other side of the road below, you can catch a glimpse of a 16th century perfectly-domed mosque.
Next up are the temples; even if you are not familiar with Hindu and Jain art, a stroll through the temples is a must. A pillared and bracketed veranda, columned hall and inner sanctum form the basic structure of the temples, but the carvings are particular to each. There’s a lot of climbing from one cave to another, so make sure your footwear and clothes are comfortable and tough.
The dense darkness of the caves makes one linger on the verandas a bit longer, where intricate sculptures and carvings are present. The caves have sculptures of Nataraja—an 18-handed dancing Shiva—and Vishnu, who is seated on a coiled serpent in one place. Some of the other Hindu gods depicted in these caves were Indra and Brahma, and carvings of romancing couples. These ‘happy couples’ document the jewellery and costume popular in Deccani times. The last cave is a Jain cave and has an image of the Mahavir in the inner sanctum and carvings of othertirthankaras in the cave.
- See more at: http://www.cntraveller.in/story/jewelled-hills-badami#sthash.ImqM1VN5.dpuf
As you approach the town, the first sight that overwhelms you is Badami’s spectacular rock face. The sandstone hill glows mellow in the afternoon sun. The scale of the cliff inspires immediate awe. This is the start of a gorge with soaring rock faces on both sides, and a water tank—the Agastya Tirtha—in the center. Unlike Hampi’s boulder hills, this is a sole structure that climbs along a vertical line to the sky.
Directly in front of the car park in Badami is Cave no 1, at whose entrance awaits a posse of monkeys and pilgrims. ‘Beware of monkeys’ says a sign as you start the ascent, and I put away all eatables in caution. The guide armed himself with a long staff in defense.
I eagerly set forth to explore the four rock-cut cave temples carved in the 6th and 7th centuries. Our guide was a stubborn gentleman who soon bored us with repetitive, unimaginative talk, as he rattled off names of Chalukya kings long gone. Badami was the capital of the early Chalukyas who ruled much of Northern Karnataka between the 6th and 8th century.
Badami, with its virtuoso sculptures and breathtaking vistas, is a must visit for both the scholarly and the regular tourist. Linger on each level of the ascent and soak in views of both the rock face and the panorama it towers over. Parted by a millennium, on the other side of the road below, you can catch a glimpse of a 16th century perfectly-domed mosque.
Next up are the temples; even if you are not familiar with Hindu and Jain art, a stroll through the temples is a must. A pillared and bracketed veranda, columned hall and inner sanctum form the basic structure of the temples, but the carvings are particular to each. There’s a lot of climbing from one cave to another, so make sure your footwear and clothes are comfortable and tough.
The dense darkness of the caves makes one linger on the verandas a bit longer, where intricate sculptures and carvings are present. The caves have sculptures of Nataraja—an 18-handed dancing Shiva—and Vishnu, who is seated on a coiled serpent in one place. Some of the other Hindu gods depicted in these caves were Indra and Brahma, and carvings of romancing couples. These ‘happy couples’ document the jewellery and costume popular in Deccani times. The last cave is a Jain cave and has an image of the Mahavir in the inner sanctum and carvings of othertirthankaras in the cave.
- See more at: http://www.cntraveller.in/story/jewelled-hills-badami#sthash.ImqM1VN5.dpuf
While
getting to Badami from Hampi, both historical sites in Karnataka, one
traverses a landscape abundant in cotton, corn and the sunflower crop.
Traffic comprises mainly heavy vehicles and trucks carrying unearthed
ores from this mineral rich district.
As you approach the town, the first sight that overwhelms you is Badami’s spectacular rock face. The sandstone hill glows mellow in the afternoon sun. The scale of the cliff inspires immediate awe. This is the start of a gorge with soaring rock faces on both sides, and a water tank—the Agastya Tirtha—in the center. Unlike Hampi’s boulder hills, this is a sole structure that climbs along a vertical line to the sky.
Directly in front of the car park in Badami is Cave no 1, at whose entrance awaits a posse of monkeys and pilgrims. ‘Beware of monkeys’ says a sign as you start the ascent, and I put away all eatables in caution. The guide armed himself with a long staff in defense.
I eagerly set forth to explore the four rock-cut cave temples carved in the 6th and 7th centuries. Our guide was a stubborn gentleman who soon bored us with repetitive, unimaginative talk, as he rattled off names of Chalukya kings long gone. Badami was the capital of the early Chalukyas who ruled much of Northern Karnataka between the 6th and 8th century.
Badami, with its virtuoso sculptures and breathtaking vistas, is a must visit for both the scholarly and the regular tourist. Linger on each level of the ascent and soak in views of both the rock face and the panorama it towers over. Parted by a millennium, on the other side of the road below, you can catch a glimpse of a 16th century perfectly-domed mosque.
Next up are the temples; even if you are not familiar with Hindu and Jain art, a stroll through the temples is a must. A pillared and bracketed veranda, columned hall and inner sanctum form the basic structure of the temples, but the carvings are particular to each. There’s a lot of climbing from one cave to another, so make sure your footwear and clothes are comfortable and tough.
The dense darkness of the caves makes one linger on the verandas a bit longer, where intricate sculptures and carvings are present. The caves have sculptures of Nataraja—an 18-handed dancing Shiva—and Vishnu, who is seated on a coiled serpent in one place. Some of the other Hindu gods depicted in these caves were Indra and Brahma, and carvings of romancing couples. These ‘happy couples’ document the jewellery and costume popular in Deccani times. The last cave is a Jain cave and has an image of the Mahavir in the inner sanctum and carvings of othertirthankaras in the cave.
- See more at: http://www.cntraveller.in/story/jewelled-hills-badami#sthash.ImqM1VN5.dpuf
As you approach the town, the first sight that overwhelms you is Badami’s spectacular rock face. The sandstone hill glows mellow in the afternoon sun. The scale of the cliff inspires immediate awe. This is the start of a gorge with soaring rock faces on both sides, and a water tank—the Agastya Tirtha—in the center. Unlike Hampi’s boulder hills, this is a sole structure that climbs along a vertical line to the sky.
Directly in front of the car park in Badami is Cave no 1, at whose entrance awaits a posse of monkeys and pilgrims. ‘Beware of monkeys’ says a sign as you start the ascent, and I put away all eatables in caution. The guide armed himself with a long staff in defense.
I eagerly set forth to explore the four rock-cut cave temples carved in the 6th and 7th centuries. Our guide was a stubborn gentleman who soon bored us with repetitive, unimaginative talk, as he rattled off names of Chalukya kings long gone. Badami was the capital of the early Chalukyas who ruled much of Northern Karnataka between the 6th and 8th century.
Badami, with its virtuoso sculptures and breathtaking vistas, is a must visit for both the scholarly and the regular tourist. Linger on each level of the ascent and soak in views of both the rock face and the panorama it towers over. Parted by a millennium, on the other side of the road below, you can catch a glimpse of a 16th century perfectly-domed mosque.
Next up are the temples; even if you are not familiar with Hindu and Jain art, a stroll through the temples is a must. A pillared and bracketed veranda, columned hall and inner sanctum form the basic structure of the temples, but the carvings are particular to each. There’s a lot of climbing from one cave to another, so make sure your footwear and clothes are comfortable and tough.
The dense darkness of the caves makes one linger on the verandas a bit longer, where intricate sculptures and carvings are present. The caves have sculptures of Nataraja—an 18-handed dancing Shiva—and Vishnu, who is seated on a coiled serpent in one place. Some of the other Hindu gods depicted in these caves were Indra and Brahma, and carvings of romancing couples. These ‘happy couples’ document the jewellery and costume popular in Deccani times. The last cave is a Jain cave and has an image of the Mahavir in the inner sanctum and carvings of othertirthankaras in the cave.
- See more at: http://www.cntraveller.in/story/jewelled-hills-badami#sthash.ImqM1VN5.dpuf
