Japan..Part 2 Kyoto

Golden Pavilion...Kinkaku-ji  temple

The gleaming "Hikari"Shinkansen that took us from Tokyo to Kyoto (520Kms) in 2Hrs 45 min,gave just 7 min for all of us to pass through the safety door,enter the train and settle in our seats. JR pass holders are not allowed to travel by Nozomi which are the latest and complete the journey in 2Hrs 15 min.
The entire experience was overwhelming.The signage at the station and in the platform,is so good that you needn't talk to anybody.The plush waiting rooms,the ultra clean platforms appointed with smoking rooms and sitting rooms,the vending machines,the snack kiosks et al were gleaming.There were hardly any trash baskets to be seen.
There was this lady official who went up and down the vestibule many times but not once did she ask us for our ticket/pass.Is it the high degree of integrity that prevails here or is it the system that informs her that our seats are legit.Nowhere in Japan was our passes checked on trains.The same lady or the one with the snack cart would bow respectfully every time they entered or left a vestibule.Crisp announcements were made both in Jap and English and 5 min before the stop to alert the passengers.
Arriving in Kyoto we commenced our walk to our Hotel at a short distance.The walk was enjoyable,in the mild 22C weather, a tad longer than estimated and we thought we were ...surely lost.I Went inside the first open door in the street and found it to be a library with the librarian missing from his seat.But I found Tanaka San,browsing a book;He knew a reasonable amount of English,gave me a patient hearing and lead me all the way to the hotel in the next 10 minutes.In parting he wished me a pleasant stay and bowed. 
The girl at the reception was equally nice arranging a room for us in the next hour,even though it was before check-in time. Soon we got ready to start our walk back to the sprawling station and to the meeting point of our afternoon walking tour.
Kyoto is one of the oldest cities in Japan,developed as a centre of aristocratic culture, and was the capital for more than a millennium after its inception in 794 A.D.Only after the Meiji Restoration,event that restored practical imperial rule around 1868,that the Royal Family moved out of Kyoto into their new imperial home in Tokyo.Kyoto is cocooned in a valley with green mountains rising protectively around it.While Tokyo is all high-speed trains,neon and skyscrapers.

Kyoto moves to an altogether different rhythm.It is synonymous with ancient temples,Zen gardens and Geisha traditions.Also renowned for  centuries-old craftsmanship including flower arrangement.It was spared the wartime bombings that blitzed the capital and today is still home to 2,000 Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.Very compact in comparison to Tokyo with a population of only 1.5 million

Along with 5 other families we followed our guide on a walking trip.We took a metro ride to Tofukuji station and walked to the temple.
Tofuku-ji is a temple of the Zen sect of Buddhism which was built in the middle of the 13th century.The 22 meter tall Sanmon Gate is the oldest Zen gate of its kind,dating back to 1425.It is a national treasure.

Behind the gate is the main hall with the very serene golden face of the Buddha. Then there is the Priest's hall.Surrounding the Priest's hall are Zen gardens the likes of which we have not seen before. Each has its own motif. See below two distinctive types.

This garden is comprised of rock composites symbolizing Elysian isles,islands of the blessed located at the end of the earth.Resting place for the heroic and virtuous according to Homer.This is a dry Zen style stone garden.

In contrast to the orthodox stone garden,the North Garden employs a checkered pattern of stones and moss to produce an impressive effect.

Also here are many other national treasures and cultural properties,including architectural structures, Buddhist images,paintings, and writings.

Though Tofukuji Temple is known as one of 5 great Zen temples of Kyoto,it is not very crowded and not many people visit the temple.Then again,it makes it a more peaceful place to visit when there are no crowds.We enjoyed the peace and quiet.From here we had a good walk through a nice residential neighborhood and soon found that there were surging crowds to go up to see the Fushimi Inari shrine.First up we see the gate post and the majestic shrine beyond.

Fushimi Inari is the most ancient and important of several thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari,the Shinto God of rice (Remember Kami?).Japan is supposed to be having some 30,000 Inari shrines.Foxes are thought to be Inari's messengers,resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds all wearing a red bib and mouthing a Key,sheaf of rice etc.There are many records of prayers inside the shrine that include prayers for bountiful harvests of grain,for the rain to come or stop and prayers for peace. 
As we get past the shrine we see the impressive entrance to the torii gate-covered hiking trail.The thousands of torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies,and the donor's name/date is inscribed on the back of each gate.The cost starts around 400,000 yen for a small sized gate and increases to over millions of yen for larger ones. This is the"show stopper" and most crowded section of the shrine as it affords a perfect spot for photos and also leads to the trail.                                                                                                                                      

We climbed  for a while admiring the tunnel of Torii and turned back.Waiting for those who were exploring the heights our eyes surveyed the food and souvenir stalls at the exit.

Tai parfait

These stalls sold yakitori,skewered chicken,taiyaki parfait,a crisp waffle cone in the shape of a big-mouthed fish,which is then filled with an assortment of ice-cream, fruits,and toppings of your choice, yakisoba (noodles with pork and veggie),ice creams,delicacies made of bean curd and others that would satisfy the crowd after their climb.One stick of a large sized yakitori with succulent chicken meat between onions and immersed in their special sauce was definitely worth every penny.
As the Sun began to set on the Toriis,we left the Foxes behind and headed to Gion by metro from Fushimi. We took a 15 min metro ride followed by a 10 min walk at the end of which our guide opened a box of sweets... it is a local delicacy of Gion...Nama Yatsuhashi made from glutinous rice flour and filled with sweet red bean paste. There were a mix of cinnamon and *matcha flavor (*finely ground powder of specially grown and processed green tea leaves ...very popular in Japan).It was very welcome and we all helped ourselves to one or two pieces.At a long shot it would be an equivalent of our southern delicacy, kozakkattai, with sweet bean paste filling.

Gion is the geisha district of Kyoto and the most famous in Japan.
The term geisha literally translates to"entertainer". Some prostitutes refer to themselves as geisha,but they are not.A geisha's sex and love life is usually distinct from her professional life.A successful geisha can entertain her male customers with music,dance and conversation.She is expected to be adept at current affairs.Some knowledge of commerce helps too,

It starts drizzling but we continue walking.We are in Hanamikoji Dori.. a street not to be missed,especially in the evening when it looks beautiful with the lanterns lit up and we hope to spot a geisha or two.We see a lot of Limos and plush cars with rich clients inside.At one time we were lucky to see one,the lady was a MAIKO (trainee geisha). 
Along the street there are many tea-houses and clubs where guests are entertained by the Geishas or Maikos. We were there just before dark and it was already quite crowded.The intensity of rain increased as we spotted this club house entrance where Geishas entertain.
Back in our hotel after a long afternoon full of excitement we rested our tired legs in the coffee house lounge drinking Japanese Whiskey with Pizza and Nuts on the side.
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Day 2 
Today we are exploring some more of the treasures in Kyoto for which we have have joined a coach tour.The sky is overcast and it is cool in Kyoto at 12 C as we step out to walk to the meeting point.As expected at 8:30 sharp our bus rolled out as did 6 more buses after us.The female Jap guide  spoke good English and explained the history and traditions of Kyoto before we arrived at Nijo Castle.It is one of Kyoto’s most popular and impressive sights. It shows the power that the Shoguns wielded over the emperors throughout the Edo Period.
A bit of history....
Nijo Castle was built in 1603 as the Kyoto  residence of the first shogun of the Edo period (1603-1867).(We covered the Tokyo castle of the same Shogun in Part 1).After the Shogunate fell in 1867, Nijo Castle was used as an Imperial palace for a while before being donated to the city and opened up to the public as a historic site. Its palace buildings are arguably the best surviving examples of castle palace architecture of Japan's feudal era, and the castle was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994.The castle grounds are surrounded by stone walls and moats.

We entered through a large gate and venturing further came to this very impressive roof of the Kara-mon Gate, entrance to the Ninomaru Palace.Colored carvings of cranes,pine and blossoms truly stand out in contrast to the gold work.The architecture of this gate is supposed to signify the superlative status of the Shogun dwelling inside.

Palace entry door

Having entered the palace we are told to remove our shoes,switch off mobiles and desist from using our cameras.The Palace consists of multiple separate buildings that are connected with each other by corridors with the floorboards sounding like the song of a nightingale,as they squeak when stepped upon;used as a security measure against intruders.The palace rooms are *Tatami mat covered and feature elegantly decorated ceilings and beautifully painted sliding doors (Fusuma).*Tatami are thick,woven straw mats that measure about 1x2 meters in size. Originally a luxury that only the wealthy could afford, tatami gradually became more common and can now be found in virtually all traditional Japanese homes.The size of rooms in Japan are commonly measured by the number of mats that would fit it,viz.,8-mat room.Outside footwear should be removed before stepping onto tatami.

We were overawed by the paintings and carvings in each of the rooms,as our group inched slowly forward listening to our guide.The Matsutaka-zu wall painting of a hawk perched on a massive pine tree is the most famous of them all.Period 16th century.

Our tour passes by multiple waiting and audience rooms.Only the highest ranked visitors were allowed all the way into the main audience room where the Shogun would sit on an elevated floor,flanked by bodyguards hidden in closets.Lower ranked visitors would be allowed only as far as the adjoining rooms without direct view of the shogun. The innermost rooms consisted of offices and living chambers;the latter accessible to the shogun and his female attendants only.Truly awesome!

Next we go to see a Buddhist temple

Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion).It is a  Zen temple whose top two floors are  completely covered in gold leaf. It is a  magnificent  structure built overlooking a large pond to echo the extravagant culture that developed in the wealthy aristocratic circles of Kyoto during the late 14th century.Each floor represents a different style of architecture.The ground floor is built with natural wood pillars and white plaster walls that contrasts yet complements the gilded  upper stories of the pavilion.Statues of the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and the Shogun are stored in the first floor but you are not allowed to enter.The top floor is gilded inside out and capped with a golden phoenix.

After viewing Kinkakuji from across the pond,we take the path that passes by the temple from behind leading through to the temple gardens.The gardens hold a few other spots of interest including a pond that is said to never dry up,and statues that people throw coins at for luck.

With this we have have completed the second activity for the morning and move on to the third viz.,The Imperial Palace located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park. Entrance is free and this is a very significant historic site.However,without a special permit all you can do is see the palace buildings and gardens,but not enter any of them,

The hall of ceremonies,the emperor's throne,various gates are all impressive and we could only take photos from a distance.Here they are....

The hall of ceremonies,

for Oath taking.

The Imperial throne.We were lucky to get a glimpse.It is shown on certain days only.

Emperor's waiting room entrance from one side showing the roof details.

The park grounds,1300 x 700 meter are extensive,and provide a lovely green space in the heart of Kyoto for both tourists and residents. It features attractive,broad gravel paths,lawns and tree groves.

Below are some flower arrangements and paintings inside taken from afar.                                   

                              

 

Before we left the palace grounds we had a glimpse of this pretty Jap garden with a wooden bridge and also saw this cherry blossom tree with Indian tourists cavorting about it.

                                      Standing next to Samurai Armour 

Our morning came to an end and we were taken to Kyoto Handicraft centre building for lunch.As we head for lunch I talk about Jap politeness with the guide.

Here is a gist...Remember Tanaka San who went out of the way to show us the location of our hotel?That was one of our first experiences with omotenashi,translated as “Japanese hospitality”. In practice,it combines exquisite politeness with a desire to maintain harmony and  avoid conflict. It is a way of life in Japan.
People with colds wear surgical masks to avoid infecting others.Neighbors deliver gift-wrapped boxes of washing powder before beginning building work...a gesture to help clean your clothes from the dust that will inevitably fly about.Staff in shops and restaurants greet you with a bow and a hearty irasshaimase (welcome).They put one hand under yours when giving you your change,to avoid dropping any coins.Taxi doors open automatically at your approach – and the uniformed white-gloved driver doesn’t expect a tip.Lifts apologize for keeping you waiting,and when you enter the bathroom the toilet seat springs to attention.Take the last one with a pinch of salt! Roadwork signs feature a cute picture of a bowing construction worker.
But omotenashi goes far beyond being nice to visitors; it permeates every level of daily life and is learned from a young age.

So,where did all this politeness come from? They were the core values of Bushido (the Way of the Warrior),the ethical code of the samurai.It not only governed honor,discipline and morality,but also the right way of doing everything from bowing to serving tea. Its Zen-based precepts demanded mastery over one’s emotions,inner serenity and respect for others,enemies included.Bushido became the basis for the code of conduct for society in general. 

Lunch was an elaborate buffet with a mix of Japanese and Veggie food,salads and soup.Bus loads of tourists descended upon the fairly large dining space for this purpose and enjoyed their food.
Let's get on with the post lunch period....

A giant torii gate marks the approach to the Heian shrine. 
Heian is the former name of Kyoto.This Shrine is relatively new, dating back just over a hundred years to 1895. The shrine is dedicated to the spirits of the first and last emperors  who reigned from the city.Today,the Heian Shrine is among the most popular tourist destinations in Kyoto.It is also a popular location for school trips,and groups of students could be seen exploring the site.The shrine's striking colors and spacious courtyards between buildings make for a beautiful setting. 

   

Next came Sanju Sangendo Hall, a giant of a Buddhist temple.

The temple name literally means "Hall with thirty three spaces between columns",describing the architecture of the long main hall of the temple.Measuring 120 meters,the temple hall is Japan's longest wooden structure.In the center of the main hall sits a large wooden statue of Sahasrabhuja Arya Avalokiteshvara,the 1000-armed Senju*Kannon that is flanked on each side by 500 statues of human sized 1000-armed Kannon standing in ten rows.Together they make for an awesome sight.(*Kannon is the goddess of mercy and compassion).

The statues are made of Jap cypress clad in gold leaf. Though they look identical,on close inspection we could make out the differences.

28 guardian deities standing in front of the Buddhist Kannon trace their origins to Indian mythology covering Hinduism,Jainism and Buddhism,and to name a few...Varuna,Vishnu,Lakshmi,Brahma,Shiv,GarudVayu, Indra.... 

Our final stop for the day is at Kiyomizudera temple.Translates to"Pure Water Temple" and is one of the most celebrated temples of Japan.It was founded in 780 AD on the site of a Waterfall and derives its name from the fall's pure waters.

We drove to Higashiyama in the lower slopes of Kyoto's mountains to one of the city's best preserved historic districts.It is a great place to experience old Kyoto with the narrow sloping lanes,wooden buildings and traditional shops all buzzing with tourists and locals.After seeing the small statue of the eleven faced 1000 armed Kannon in the main hall we continued to the wooden stage that juts out from here and afforded a great view of the numerous cherry and maple  trees below, as well as of the city of Kyoto in the distance. 

We then came walking down the steps around the temple, passing the waterfall at the bottom and saw this lovely bunch of Cherry blossom bloom and its contrast against the red roof of the temple gate. 

Back to our coach looking at the many shops and restaurants in the area that have been catering to tourists and pilgrims for centuries. Shopped for souvenirs. Products on sale range from local specialties such as pottery,sweets and pickles to the standard set of souvenirs.
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Day 3

Today we are on our own for the first half and decided to explore a bit after a leisurely breakfast.Not far on the other side of station was the Kyoto Tower.

The brightly painted red and white tower stands directly across from Kyoto Station exit.It contrasts the cultural nature of the city where ancient shrines and temples,stately palaces and meditative gardens abound.Built in 1964,this observation tower dominates the skyline soaring 130 meters up..Inside the tower on Level 5 is the Observation Deck offering sweeping views of the entire city and most of its major landmarks.We spent 45 min here looking all around and saw some Shinkansen trains snaking in and out of the station in the proximity.                                                              
              

It was raining as we came out and asked our way around to a 100 Yen shop in the basement of a Dept,store nearby.When you envision shopping in Japan,perhaps a high-end fashion boutique housed in a prize-winning architectural masterpiece first comes to mind.But step behind that boutique, turn left,then right,then left again – and you’ll find a different kind of awe-inspiring shopping experience: the ¥100 shop. Japan takes the 'dollar store' or 'pound store' concept to new heights – previous expectations of what can be bought on the cheap are blown out of the water.

As we browsed we found ceramics/kitchenware,stationery/office supplies,garden supplies,house ware,toiletries/beauty supplies and toys,games and novelty items all of great quality! 'This a 100 yen shop?!' was our palpable reaction.An hour went by as we shopped some and decided to have a go again later.

At 2PM we commenced our coach trip to Todaiji temple at Nara. Nara was Japan's first permanent capital established in the year 710. As the influence and political ambitions of the city's powerful Buddhist monasteries grew to become a serious threat to the government,the capital was moved to Kyoto by the end of the 8th century.

Our journey of an hour was made joyful by our light hearted guide who was not only full of humorous anecdotes but also shared tips on how to read some basic/important Japanese characters on sign boards to help during travel.
Todaiji is one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples.The temple was constructed in 752 as the head temple of all Buddhist temples of Japan. 

Todaiji's main hall,the Big Buddha Hall is the world's largest wooden building and houses one of Japan's largest bronze statues. of Buddha.The 15 meters tall,seated Buddha represents Vairocana and is flanked by two Bodhisattvas.

We then made our way to the Deer park where hundreds of deer were freely roaming.They are considered as messengers of God and are looking at tourists for feed.Our guide had a bag of crackers and he would go near a deer and make it bow many times before feeding it.He warned us of their tendency to be aggressive if they notice feed in your hands and you delay.Yes it was fun with the deer for a while and there were shouts and shrieks as the deer chased for its food.

We had a long walk to the nearby Kasuga shrine nestled in the midst of verdant woods.The walk is intended to give the visitor time to prepare for worship.

The shrine halls’ bright vermillion columns,white walls and roofs of  cypress bark contrast beautifully with the green of the surrounding woods.

Kasuga shrine  is famous for its lanterns,which have been donated by worshipers.We could see many stone lanterns as we approached the shrine,like these.->>

Many bronze lanterns were found hanging from the buildings.The lanterns are lit twice a year at Lantern Festivals,one in early February and one in mid August.          
                                               
                                                                     

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Day 4

Arashiyama

We decided to take the metro to one of the most famous spots in Kyoto...in all of Japan actually.Probably the town's biggest claim to fame and one of the most photographed sights. We had to endure a tightly packed,but very well behaved crowd inside the train...who with alacrity vacated seats for us to sit down.At our destination,Saga Arashiyama station,reached in 20 minutes,we sought directions for the Bamboo grove which was just 15 minutes away.Plenty of tourist traffic was heading into the grove and we could see hand pulled rickshaws and bi-cycles vying for space.

                  

Its small windy paths flanked by very tall bamboo on either side create an otherworldly atmosphere that feels calm and peaceful no matter how busy it gets.It made for a pleasant walk, notwithstanding the Saturday crowd.It stretches deep going to a beautiful Villa with gardens at the other end.When the wind blows,you can hear the rustling and squeaking of the stalks that are very very tall and bend in the breeze.And when the light filters through the grove at the right angle,it creates a truly magical ambiance. It was most certainly an awesome experience.

        

Retracting,we walked towards the scenic bridge called the Togetsukyo bridge,passing many shops and restaurants on the main road which was cluttered with tourists.The old wooden bridge spans the Oi river and looking across to the far side we saw a collection of buildings nestled at the foot of the mountain and wooden Japanese boats moored at the docks.A wonderful scene.

         

The setting was ethereal and we took a river side seat enjoying the pleasant weather and people watching...my favorite hobby..After a spot of lunch and juicy strawberries for dessert we ambled back to the station for our return.

We have completed Kyoto and will embark on our journey to Hiroshima in the morning. See you there.
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