6/26/16

Italy-Part1 Rome






Our trip was conceived 2 years ago and thanks to some meticulous planning by my better half and some.... Hmmm...Ok from me... was put into action in May.

We covered all important cities,regions of Italy in 2 weeks and it was most enjoyable.Weather was "spring turning to summer"; what more could we ask for? and crowds? senior Americanos or couples on honeymoon etc as schools hadn't let off yet! excellent setting I must say.


Rome...Day1

We were chauffeured to our Hotel from Fumicino airport and I could already get a sense of what was to unfold in the coming days.

Next morning after a good breakfast with lots of Coffee and a warm send off with a Buon Viaggio! from the smiling waitress we were off to see Rome.

We bought the Metro/Bus/Tram pass from the Tabacchi in front and took a brisk walk to the nearest metro watching all those young Italians hurrying to their college,med school at the University nearby.Italians in general smoke a lot as seen from the debris and perhaps the Olive oil in their food compensates.

Rome is served by two major metro lines which touch "Termini" where we changed and headed to Spagna or
Spanish steps.Also,I observed that their Underground (Metro) is quite deep down;like climbing down a 4-5 story building before you reach the trains.It was rush hour and there were no seats on offer.

Spanish steps was under renovation. Nary a soul on the steps which is generally filled to capacity; Allora... there were lots of tourists sitting around the boat fountain. Allora is a word that you hear a lot in Italy. It is used as "then","so","therefore".

Trivia: Audrey Hepburn meets Gregory Peck for the first time here in "Roman Holiday"



We had signed up for a free Rome walking tour which started here right below the Keats and Shelly house and for the next two hours were absorbed in sculpture,
architecture and painting by the Italian Baroque master Bernini and his contemporaries Boromini and Cartona.


POZZO'S OPTICAL ILLUSION

While a lot of people would go see the Sistine Chapel when visiting Rome, fewer travelers venture out to St.Ignatius church at the Piazza San Ignacio near the Pantheon, which features an almost equally beautiful painted ceiling done by Andrea Pozzo, a Jesuit Brother. Here, you'd admire the grand dome not knowing that it is just a painting that makes it look like a real, three-dimensional one shown in the top of the photo below. Simply amazing! 


Yet another ceiling fresco of the church with  illusory technique!


Pantheon with its history came next in our walk. Dedicated to all the gods, the Pantheon is one of the best preserved Roman temples.It is considered to be one of the greatest architectural structures from ancient times. Finished in 125 AD by Roman emperor Hadrian, it is one of the oldest standing structures in Rome today.

During the Renaissance, the Pantheon was used as a tomb for many members of the arts. Such great artists as Carracci and Raphael were buried in the 
Pantheon.The conversion from temple to Christian church is the main reason why the structure is still in good condition today.

It is still used as a Catholic church and holds mass daily.The dome at the top is open to the sky 







Of the original Temple of Hadrian,only one row of eleven columns is still visible... today it is a part of a stock exchange building. The temple was built in honor of the Roman emperor Hadrian.

Our 2 Hr walk concluded at the Trevi,a very touristy area,with the legendary coin throwing.
Trivia:Around 3000 euros are collected daily.It has recently undergone a 2.3 million euro makeover.



We had the afternoon free and the longish walk had kicked up an appetite.Took to one of the many roads that start out of the Trevi square and we saw a guy inviting us into his Eatery saying we can have a buffet of Pasta,Ravioli etc with a fruit dish...all we can eat..Allora we dived inside and sated our appetite.

Note:Water is widely consumed in Italy in summer, but you have to specify that you need "Aqua,No Gas"which is non carbonated water.Otherwise you end up with Soda.Also,Italy boasts of potable drinking water in all its water taps and fountains from ancient times.Remember Aqua ducts?



A long walk followed looking for the Tiber river which cuts 

the city in half,the old and new. On the way we saw more

cathedrals and old residences that were truly remarkable 

until suddenly we came upon the "Tomb of the unknown

Soldier" a monument built in memory of the first king of 

unified Italy, Victor Immanuel II


The colossal white marble structure has a huge equestrian sculpture of Victor Emmanuel II and two statues of the goddess Victoria. It also features majestic stairways, tall Corinthian columns and fountains.
As they say,Rome is a city with surprise around every corner.So it was here.To find a large square,Piazza Venezia with this grand monument in front of us. Lots of tourists and lots of traffic.Truly overwhelming.Walked some more and shared a Gelato two scoops of Tiramasu and .... 


Later we reached the bridge to cross over the Tiber which at this point was more like a canal.

Took a bus back to our hotel and rested.



A Water Fountain
_________________________________________

Rome ....Day 2


Today we were booked on a guided tour to the Vatican that 

was scheduled in the afternoon.So we decided to explore the

Borghese gardens where the famous Borghese gallery (Art 

museum) is located 


Note:Please remember to book all Museo entries,the famous ones, in advance,say 2-3 weeks.I am saying this because we could not get to see the Borghese gallery as we delayed our booking.


We took the crowded Metro and got down at Piazza del 

Popolo and walked to the square.After taking a few photos 

we walked around towards the terraces at the top leading up 

to Villa Borghese.

Piazza del Popolo was preparing itself for a Tennis match

and an artificial turf laid in waiting.  



 


You can call this Villa as one of the green lungs of Rome,with

 220 acres of gardens,statue and bust lined paths

 fountains,artificial lakes,museums and theaters.
                                                        
                                                                                            


The gardens must rate as Rome's version of Central Park 

only with more museums.We spent sometime idly walking 

around,admiring  the gardens which at one time was private

 and belonged to the Borghese until the Govt.intervened.We 

had a Gelato as the Sun climbed and found it difficult to 

locate a Toilet.


Note:Public Toilets  are hard to find in Italy.

Trivia: Legend has it that in Ancient Rome Urine was an 


indispensable commodity.There used to be several public 

urinals and Urine collected daily to wash clothes as it 

contains a high level of Ammonia..a bleaching agent.



Today,you are advised to order a cup of Coffee in a Cafe 

more for the use of their Toilet in the basement!

We left the gardens and took the metro to Ottavio,nearest to 

Vatican,completed our lunch in a side-walk Cafe and were 

ready for the grand spectacle.


We were lucky to be part of a group of 

six only and our guide was an old Pro

at divulging facts.It was indeed our day

We were on Skip-the -line and entered 

the Museum quickly.


Vatican is a treasure trove no doubt


 

For such an important building the Museum and Sistine Chapel are remarkably plain outside – a high, block-like rectangular brick building without adornment. It has no grand facade and no processional entrance door: all entry points are internal, from other parts of the Papal Palace. 









Six of us in the group are provided with ear phones to listen to our guide explaining the high points relating to the exhibits.Just before we entered the museum we were shown a scaled down version of Sistine chapel  murals and we were told all about it..lest we forget to observe once inside where the guides are not allowed and we maintain silence.






The grandeur of Sculptures, Paintings,Murals,tapestries and mosaics take your breath away.There isn't much time to linger as the crowds keep coming. Some 25-30,000 tourists visit the Vatican daily.                 
 













Eventually we entered the grand Sistine chapel and are among the hundred people who are allowed at a time.It is a showcase of myriad colours on the ceiling and at the Alter.The famous "Creation of Adam" by the Master is also seen.

Twenty minutes elapsed..interspersed by "silence please"

"no talking""no photos please" by the  Carabinieri posted

there,and we were making our way to the exit.Great 

experience!

We entered St.Peter's Basilica....  another great place to visit 

with its enormous proportions.


It is an immense and magnificent space, richly decorated with Baroque stucco, mosaics and statues, almost overwhelming at first glance.
You have to pause for a moment before you can take in its vast size. The basilica is 187 metres long, 58 metres wide across the aisles and the maximum height of the ceiling in the Nave is 46 metres (as high as a 15 storey building!).


Michelangelo’s Pieta is in the first chapel, shielded by thick glass. This masterpiece dates from 1499, when the artist was only 24 years old.
The Madonna’s youthful, sweet face expresses her submission to destiny, as she cradle
s the dead Christ’s limp body in her lap. Yet the rich drapery of her dress and veil suggest an extraordinary physical and moral strength. This is the only work signed by the artist, whose name appears on the belt




What an afternoon we had had and soon it was time to leave the Vatican but not before seeing the Swiss guards protecting the Pope.Observe the colours...



Holy Water Fonts supported by Angels inside the basilica







We left the Vatican most reluctantly and crossed the avenue along with many others making a bee-line to the nearest Metro.But wait, we passed a Gelato oulet with a sweet Signorina minding the store.It had a couple of stools on the sidewalk and the scoops were delicious too!

I must digress here and tell you about the Bangladeshis who have taken over "hawking" in all the major cities in Italy.Many of them were happy to meet us as I could converse in Bengali and could relate a thing or two about Sharukh and Salman. If it starts to rain,they will be at your service in a flash with umbrellas and Ponchos. Of course,"selfie sticks" are their specialty.

We had dinner at a side-walk in the proximity of our Hotel and the salad they dished out was superb!



______________________________________

Rome....Day3


We had a lazy morning breakfasting late and observing the hustle and bustle outside and sharing our photos on the Instagram with our followers.
We have all heard  "Rome was not built in a Day" or "Rome was built on Seven Hills"
Today we are off on our Coach trip to see Ancient / Imperial Rome (Of the seven hills of Rome, today five  are populated with monuments, buildings, and parks). Of the remaining.... 

Palatine Hill belongs to the main archaeological area
and Capitoline Hill is where Michelangelo created the Piazza 
del Campidoglio.


We stop to look at the Palatine hill first.The  Hill and the Roman Forum beneath it, are now a large open-air museum


Remains of an ancient Imperial Palace on Palatine that served Augustus,Titus and so on. 




For centuries Roman Forum was the center of Roman public life... for  speeches, triumphal processions, criminal trials,commercial hub etc.It is today a sprawling ruin of architecture and archaeological excavations.  It was Grand!





On to Capitoline Hill the highlight of which is the beautiful Piazza Campidoglio,masterfully designed by Michelangelo.
We ascend the majestic steps to the square which is bordered by three palazzo, all with facades designed by the Master. The central one is the Palazzo Senatorio, the city hall of Rome, which was built on top of the ancient records office.The other two, the Palazzo dei Conservatori and Palazzo Nuovo, are home to the Museums.


Marcus Aurelius











Peter in Chains
The Apostle Peter was jailed in Jerusalem,shackled in an iron chain for preaching about Jesus. The night before his trial, St. Peter was said to have been released from the chain by an angel and led out of the prison. Today, the chain is housed as a holy relic under the main altar in the St. Peter in Chains basilica in Rome.
Legend says that when the Empress gave the chain to Pope Leo I, he held them next to the chains from Peter's first imprisonment in the Prison in Rome and the two chains miraculously fused together


Sculpture of Moses by Michelangelo
at the above basilica.



We are now taken to the Colosseum;We are glad to "skip the line" as the rain starts falling.

This would certainly be the fitting finale for our Imperial Rome tour.

There is no dirth of picture taking considering the colossal piece of work that we were staring at. 

Getting its name from the statue of Colossus out front, construction first began on the Colosseum in 72 AD, taking the work of 50,000 slaves every day to complete it so it could open to the public in 80 AD. The reason the Colosseum looks like it is crumbling in parts is because, after it was closed with the fall of the Roman Empire, it was looted during the dark ages for the marble and iron, which made its way into other buildings including the Vatican. While at its full glory it held 75,000 people.
We were awestruck looking at the arena where gladiators fought for their lives even as royalty and commoners cheered lustily;movies such as Spartacus and Gladiator came to mind...and someone said,do you want your picture taken?
Here we are standing in tier 1 of this amphitheater...

Trivia:Talking of Gladiator and Russel Crowe, one of the guides mentioned that the ancient gladiators were not men of physique and muscle as portrayed in movies but more like Dany Devito in stature. Ha!



The Colosseum had a large central oval depression covered by a wooden platform (shown partly in the pic above/below).The underground was built in AD 80 and comprised 15 vaulted corridors.These hosted the equipment needed for the games,weapons and cages for animals.About 80 winch operated lifts raised men,wild beasts and stage sets to the arena through trap doors and inclines.An exclusive underground tunnel was used by the emperors to avoid crossing the open space crowded with spectators.

















Restoration work could be seen almost everywhere to keep the 2000 year old theater alive as a Roman relic.

















Victory arch of King Constantine outside the Colosseum. AD315
We trouped into the bus, head spinning with all that we had seen in the last 3 Hrs or more.We drove by the side of the river Tiber,in peak hour traffic,which was to our benefit as we could see more of ancient Rome,and as we crept along, requested the driver to drop us off near Barberini metro station.



A 10 min walk brought us to Trevi fountain which was not at all crowded and we delighted in throwing coins over our shoulder singing..Three coins in the fountain


We were famished and took an early  dinner 

break;the wine and Margarita pizza was a 

good restorative with a gypsy singing to the 

accompaniment of a piano accordion.



After a bit of walking around we came back and saw 



the Trevi glittering.Wow!



_________________________________________


Ciao..and look forward to Naples