In a remote corner of Himachal Pradesh,nestled by the rugged Himalayan range lie the valleys of Kinnaur and Spiti.The location is stark,pristine and unexplored,save for those who enjoy trekking,camping and biking in this rough terrain.But I am getting ahead of myself.
To give the reader a general perspective,route map is shown
Day1
Chandigarh - Shimla
Christ Church, situated on the Ridge,a prominent landmark,was looking graceful under lights,more so with the mist descending upon it.We strolled the Ridge and walked the Mall before getting back to our hotel for dinner and rest.
Day 2
Shimla - Sangla
The day started with introduction to the other 13 members of the group.We were an even mix of Guys and Gals. Prisca,Mital and Pooja from Surat, Heta, Sweta, Nikesh, Souvik, Medha and Tashfi from Mumbai, Arpit and Amitanshu from Delhi,Murari from Bangalore and Parikshit from Chennai.It was a young crowd craving for excitement.Packed in 3 Innovas and an Etios we started out on our long journey to Sangla without a stop at the temple which was a detour
As luck would have it the weather was clear and the companions clear headed:) and full of cheer.Every photo-op on the way was utilised.
The roads were reasonably good,but as we took the first stop for fuel a snag was noticed in one of the Cars' tyres and for some reason the driver took many more stops than was necessary to get a fix and finally resorted to a new Tyre
This was a familiar sight throughout our journey;goats and sheep being shepherded,at times taken for slaughter,delaying our progress. Bakri-Id was approaching!
We met this gigantic hill side tunnel akin to a Jurassic Dinosaur in shape/size and many clicks and whirs could be heard as we stopped to admire and make the best of this Op.
We drove over this marvel of a trestle bridge built over a deep Gorge.Marvel of Civil engineering
Sangla is a small town in the Baspa Valley,in the Kinnaur District of HP, close to the Tibetan border,at a height of 9000 Feet. Sangla is surrounded by towering mountains on all sides and is set on the banks of the Baspa River that surges through the valley.
We reached our destination after sundown and we were taken to Igloo nature camps, a sheer beauty amidst abundant Nature.It took our breath away.
This is how it looked in the evening,comfortable Tents with washroom attached.
We settled down and then met at the dining tent for tea.Later we gathered around a Bonfire and talked of our experience during the day.Dinner served was well received as the group was quite famished with the lean lunch of many hours ago.
Day 3
Sangla - Chitkul - Kalpa
After a good night's rest we woke up to the chill of the pristine morning.This is my capture of the scene looking just across from our tent.The rising Sun cutting through the mist and lighting up the hills surrounding us was truly wonderful to behold.
The sumptuous breakfast was relished by all and we were ready to set about on our journey to Chitkul,some 20 Kms away at an elevation of 11000 Feet.The drive through the road was nothing short of spectacular,where one beholds endless pastures and meadows below the lofty peaks and there is greenery all around.The views were superb with the Baspa flowing on our right and the grounds dotted with Camps and lush vegetation in various hues.
Sangla valley's crowning glory is undoubtedly Chitkul. It is the last inhabited village fairly close to the Indo-Tibetan border.This charming village has traditional Kinnauri-style wooden houses with slate roofs and small tea shops.
Chitkul scenery
On the way back to our Camp we saw this huge boulder perched perilously by the roadside.A few more inches and the road would have been blocked.
Baspa river.What a grand setting!
We settled down and then met at the dining tent for tea.Later we gathered around a Bonfire and talked of our experience during the day.Dinner served was well received as the group was quite famished with the lean lunch of many hours ago.
Day 3
Sangla - Chitkul - Kalpa
After a good night's rest we woke up to the chill of the pristine morning.This is my capture of the scene looking just across from our tent.The rising Sun cutting through the mist and lighting up the hills surrounding us was truly wonderful to behold.
The sumptuous breakfast was relished by all and we were ready to set about on our journey to Chitkul,some 20 Kms away at an elevation of 11000 Feet.The drive through the road was nothing short of spectacular,where one beholds endless pastures and meadows below the lofty peaks and there is greenery all around.The views were superb with the Baspa flowing on our right and the grounds dotted with Camps and lush vegetation in various hues.
Chitkul scenery
The Baspa river that flows through the valley is easily accessible at Chitkul, and as we walked up to the river from the village,great views unfolded.We spent time perched on boulders at its bank,enjoying its flow and sound,the hills beyond and the lush vegetation.The world stood still as we were lost in the leisurely contemplation of the scenery and the serenity that prevailed
Gurgle, burble, splash...water, wavy wet, flowing, tumbling, rolling;
Rocks, boulders, sand, silt; scouring, churning, eroding;
Peace of mind is what I find listening to sound of streams.
On the way back to our Camp we saw this huge boulder perched perilously by the roadside.A few more inches and the road would have been blocked.
Baspa river.What a grand setting!
We were back at our camp which provided lunch before our journey to Reckong Peo and Kalpa in the afternoon. Peo is the district headquarters of Kinnaur and at an altitude of 9000Feet.As we approached we could see these houses perched on the hill side.
After Peo we climbed another 15Kms negotiating hair pin bends towards Kalpa. On both sides of the road there were many apple orchards full of red apples.It was very tempting to pluck a few,but good sense prevailed.Have a peek at the bountiful crop.
However,we reached Kalpa after 6 PM and could not even capture this peak in good daylight.We heard all about it from the Receptionist of our hotel,who has scaled this peak more than once.He looked very fit.
So we stayed around the vicinity of our hotel,Rakpa Regency, admiring the surroundings in the failing light and took some pictures from our room pointing in the direction of Kinner Kailash and this is what I got.
Day 4
Kalpa - Nako - Tabo - Dhankar
In 3 days the group had established a good rapport and I must say that we are jelling well.The car drivers too were enjoying themselves and explaining whatever they knew about the territory.Driving was of a good standard ...watchful and steady..This brings me to this sticker pasted on the back of our car.Was subsequently corrected
After an early breakfast we departed Kalpa at about 7AM and soon came down to Peo and on our way to Nako
We drove on NH22 with river Sutlej next to us on the right.
We crossed the bridge and turned left.
We stopped momentarily at a Durga Mandir at Spello and moved on.Every moving vehicle that we crossed kicked up dust and we had no choice but to keep the windows closed.As it is,some of us were affected by motion sickness.
From Spello to Pooh and then to Khab we drove on bad,bumpy roads.At Khab we had a respite and we got down from our cars to look at the bridge which will take us towards Spiti.This is also the confluence point where Spiti river joins Sutlej.
Our group was relieved with this break and so spent about 15 minutes around this board taking many selfies,group photos etc etc.
As we crossed the bridge to move into Spiti Valley, we could clearly see the difference in the colors of the Sutlej River and the Spiti River where they were merging.I borrowed the following picture from the Net to give you another perspective of the location.How small we all are in the greater scheme of the Universe.A bit of philosophy..Heh Heh
On the other side of the bridge the road was almost like a tunnel with a large overhang of the hill.You can see it above.This is indeed great work by BRO! bro.All the way from Khab towards Nako, we climbed on proper metaled roads having left the most dangerous and treacherous road behind.We now see stark brown and dark charcoal like rocky,boulder strewn mountains.Curiously there were patches of green below.We stopped to take pics.
We have reached Nako!.Three Cheers to the drivers.We have climbed from Khab at 8000 to 12000 Feet at Nako,a tiny village with a small lake...its main attraction.Time is 1:00 PM as we park near the eating place and give our order for lunch.
We took a walk to the famous Nako lake.It was just Ok. Or was it due to the long and hard drive we had completed and we were wanting a little rest? 
We made fast work of our lunch and got ready to depart from Nako as we had to reach Tabo monastery,60 Kms away.
By 3 PM we were on the road again.We reached Chango, taking the new road which bypasses the older route which was shorter but had “Maling Nala”, a dreaded place usually blocked by landslides.So,BRO decided to build a bypass which is a good steep winding road. Sumdo was next,where there is a check-post for recording tourist and vehicle details.It was also a Chai stop for the group.
Sumdo is also where the Spiti valley starts,leaving Kinnaur behind.
Sumdo is also where the Spiti valley starts,leaving Kinnaur behind.
We reached Tabo monastery at about 5:30 PM and were sad to note that the Monastery closed at 5PM.
Constructed back in 996 AD,even today,Tabo holds the distinction of being the largest monastic complex in Spiti Valley. It is is famous for its exquisite murals and stucco sculptures which bear a striking resemblance with the paintings and sculptures in the Ajanta cave.Sadly,We could not see the murals or sculptures
We spent time looking around the Monastery complex with its recently constructed assembly hall and prayer chamber,the new Stupa with the surrounding prayer wheels.Also looked up the monastery complex with many more chortens and temples over a large area.It was good to unwind and enjoy the peace and quiet.
After spending an hour at Tabo we proceeded to Dhankar. In between we got down to view the night sky and someone pointed out that we are seeing the "milky way".It was brilliant,no doubt,the night sky view from that altitude.
As we neared Dhankar at ~8PM a couple of guys stopped us and requested the Registration of our car.Then a guy on a Bike,later turned out to be our guide for the Spiti circuit,lead us to our home stay.
Others from our group went to other Home stays as accommodation is limited in each, to 2-3 rooms
Dinner was promised at 9PM but apparently cooking was out of question in the darkness.The rooms were comfy and we four had to make do without a shower.
Dinner was served at 10:30 PM by the home owners,seniors, who both came up with the food and kept forcing us to eat more and more.They were very courteous and shared information about their family,customs,live-stock,way of life in the wilderness,how their second son has gone into Monkhood per tradition and so on.They are very keen to host more tourists,in their house right through the season.
Thus ended a long day of travel and we have landed in Spiti valley.
Day 5
Dhankar- Dhanker Lake - Kibber
Tshering the owner served us hot tea in the morning and we could see wedding guests gathered in his courtyard below.After a refreshing hot bath we went down to their kitchen where the elder son served us breakfast of Roti and Omlette. His wife and child were around and the setting was amiable;we were having a friendly chat as we ate our meal and bid farewell.
You are looking at the very pleasant home stay run by Tshering and his family.I am wearing his traditional fur lined cap.
From here at 12500 Feet we were to climb/trek to Dhankar lake which is at an altitude of 14000 feet.The guide told us that it was a 2 Km trek and could be achieved in 1Hr. I looked at him and the mountains across and asked him what he did in winter when the snow covers the mountains and he said he trains people to Ski,coming down the slope.And then he walks all the way up to get the second customer,climbing in the snow.No wonder he was running up and down the Dhankar lake climb which was a child's play for him.
Picture of the landscape with the river as we trekked.
We started the climb in right earnest and soon found majority of the group way up and away!Only the four of us and Sweta,Heta were going slow. Amit was duty bound
As the gradient increased, Sakina, Sumee and Heta gave up and returned,while Sweta,Amit and I went on relentlessly.We sipped water to keep ourselves hydrated and Amit was a great source of encouragement to both Sweta and I.The guide was dancing up and down the path as if his heart and lungs were made of Steel and gave us some advice now and then.We met Mayank who had joined our group here as the 18th member,a jolly good fellow from Chandigarh.He walked ahead of us carrying his heavy camera gear.
We did it !! and never have I felt so elated, barring that time at Sikkim when I waded through snow for 15 minutes or more to reach Gurudong
mar lake at an altitude of 17000Ft
Thanks to my fellow trekkers Amit and Sweta. We spent 30 minutes here,took many photos,did a Parikrama and headed back,the mind taking over from the battered body. Going back I slipped at places but my good friends and the Guide were always by my side to help.Return was achieved in an hour.
This Dhankar Fort/ monastery is locked between the rocky spurs at the top of the cliff in Dhankar village, in the proximity of our Homestay, at an elevation of over 12500Feet. The Fort/Monastery is over 1000 years old and now lies in ruins. From the remnants of the fort one can see vast expanse of the Spiti valley.
The whole of Dhankar seems to be grounded on different spurs. Wonder how this structure continues like this for more than thousand years!
Lunch at Homestay was an average fare after which we packed and departed for our next port of call.
Going towards Kaza we could see Spiti river snaking its way between the hills
We reached Kaza at 4:20PM after driving for a little over an hour.All the cars lined up for Diesel/Petrol at this pump which claims to be the world's highest outlet.
We are now about 25 Kms short of Kibber where we will spend the evening and night.On the way we see the Kye monastery and reach our destination at 5:30PM. We stayed at Norling guest house.
A section of Kibber village from our Hotel
We had a refreshing cup of tea and moved out for a stroll outside.There was a nip in the air and as we walked we met this Italian lady who was struggling to locate a Hotel/Home stay.Later she met us at our hotel and spent time with us recounting her wonderful experience in India.She is located in Rishikesh and is a Yoga teacher there.
Day 6
Kibber - Kaza
If yesterday was a memorable day,today was a bit of let down in terms of sight-seeing.But first,let me show you our place of dwelling in Kibber and also give you some background.
We were taken to a road bridge under construction site.
Most of the group members had a go at the rope way car ride over a deep gully. Adrenalin pumping! Going was easy but many strong hands assisted in pulling you back,lest you are left dangling in between.
After this it it appeared the guide had no ideas and took us along on a wild goose chase.
We saw the Kye monastery from the top of a small crag after more than an hour's drive.Then we spotted Yaks and an Ibex at a distance
Yaks and Ibex
It was 12:30 by now and we were told that we will be driving to Kye monastery as going to Kaza for lunch will delay the proceedings.We resented this delayed lunch,but were at the mercy of organisers.Not only that,we were taken to see a Tantric via a long trek in the Sun.The walk was long and there were no scenes to enjoy on the way.Our group of four did not make it to the place.
We reached Kye monastery at 3PM, hungry, and knew that we would be here atleast for an hour before turning back to Kaza. Well! Life sometimes deals you the wrong cards!!
Overlooking Kaza and Spiti river from a height of about 13,500 ft, the Kye monastery is the largest in the valley and holds a powerful sway over the most populous part of the valley around Kaza.It is an irregular heap of low rooms and narrow corridors on a conical hill.
Our guide arranged a Monk,who was willing to share some info about the Monastery with us.When asked specifically about the compulsion of the second son of the family going in for monk hood,he said the act was voluntary and left to the families,there being no compulsion.When a person decides to renounce Monk hood he should do so in front of his Guru who has ordained him,he said.The significance of the monastery also lies in it being a reputed religious training center for the Lamas.
The painting,murals and thankas of the walls promptly catch your attention. There is also an image Dhyana Buddha inside.
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| Tired and bored looks says it all |
There was a good breeze blowing as I stepped out to watch nature,I saw this Village in the distance,so small in comparison to the mighty hills and the Spiti river flowing alongside
Drove to our hotel in Rangrik named Spiti Sarai and on the way went over the Rangrik bridge over Spiti,a beautiful setting once again.
Settled in our spacious family suite,where a main door lead us via a sitting room to two double beds with balcony attached.This hotel is run by Ramesh Lotey the lead organiser of our tour.
We had tea in the Dining hall and some of the shopping done in the evening at Kaza was discussed.I posed in this woolen cap for the amusement of others around me.Dinner was served and it was time to rest.
Day 7
Kaza - Langza - Komic - Hikkim - Kaza
Today promises to be a good day as "cycle of life" alternates between good and bad.We will be traversing at a height of 14000-15000 Feet!
We got ready quickly enough and took this picture of the Masked Marauders.Let me tell you that most of the group had suffered from inhaling excessive dust and had got hold of colourful masks..to take care of themselves and not to show off! Hope you all agree
We drove to Langzah, a village at a height of 14800 feet and has 200 families.
The landscape was lovely with agricultural fields and hills and peaks in the background.
Langza Village is primarily dominated by the statue of Lord Buddha,overlooking the valley, and mud houses.How serene and beautiful.
About 10 Kms from Langzah is the village of Komic at an altitude of about 15000 Feet.It is the highest motorable village and monastery in the world, the Tangyud Monastery.
Apart from the Monastery The village offers some high vantage points to witness some amazing views of Spiti Valley.
Sumee standing with Nikesh, who rode the Bike steadily on the rough terrain.
A section of the Monastery at the back has a stuffed leopard on view.
We also had Sunny in a 4X4 vehicle giving us rides by turn in that terrain.That was fun.
Hikkim village was next,4 KMs from Komic,14567feet. Hikkim village has the highest post office and the highest polling station of the world.
We had to go down a slippery pathway to reach the PO.
We had to go down a slippery pathway to reach the PO.
We were all loaded with picture post cards and letters that were to be posted from here.Once inside,the post master,operating out of his small hut,stamped the letters and post cards and took the necessary payments from us,promising to load them on the next deliver van that came along from Kaza.
Other than the PO experience and gazing at the lands below there is not much else here.
A view of Kaza town from the top.
Visit to these hidden gems of Spiti Valley is a memorable experience indeed.
We got back to Kaza and had a late lunch at Himalayan cafe.Headed back to the Hotel after shopping at Kaza market and spent late afternoon and evening at the hotel.
We got back to Kaza and had a late lunch at Himalayan cafe.Headed back to the Hotel after shopping at Kaza market and spent late afternoon and evening at the hotel.
Day 8
Kaza - Kunzom Pass - Chandratal lake
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| Hotel Spiti Sarai |
We must have departed by 9AM and the roads were once again a rough terrain which made going slow.
We started our approach to Kunzom Pass after 11:30 and could see snow capped peaks at a distance
Kunzom Pass also called KunjomTop connects the Kullu and Lahaul valleys with Spiti valley.
Kunzom range is from where Spiti river takes its source.Though higher than the Rohtang Pass, at 15150 Feet, Kunzom is safer and provides easier ascent and descent.The panorama as viewed from the Pass is breathtaking. The lofty Shigri Parbat can be seen right in front in all its grandeur. The crest of the pass has been marked by chortens erected ages ago.
We stopped for half an hour here before starting on our downward journey towards Chandratal lake.
Time was about 1PM.
The road from Kunzom Pass to Chandratal was brutal to say the least.
Narrow, uneven,full of stones and some Nullahs. Maneuvering an Innova in such roads definitely required all the skill and attention of our experienced lot of drivers.They were all bunched up together and the road was just a vehicle width wide and some... with blind corners to boot.Wow!Even a moment of distraction would have been suicidal.At some points when a vehicle was approaching from the opposite side, the drivers had to either back out or somehow find space at the very edge to allow passage for the other car to pass.On the hill side the glacier melt water flow into Chandra river could be discerned.
On reaching the camp site and selecting and putting our luggage in we sat down for some lunch and were all eager to visit the lake.
The cars dropped us up to a point from where there was a trek of 20 minutes with Sunny helping Sumee with her bag.On the way scene.
We are almost at the lake.
The setting was fantastic with emerald blue colour adding to its charm.Someone has done a good job of erecting this flag post
We spent about an hour enjoying the unspoilt beauty that only nature can provide at these heights. Chandratal is at 14200 feet and is a frozen mass of ice for 8 months of the year.
On our return we got this shot with a partial rainbow!
Day 9
Chandratal - Rohtang pass - Manali
As we depart from the wonderful Spiti valley I want to share with you the following that I read:
'Spiti' means 'middle country' - a name given as a result of its ties with both India and Tibet.With freckles of green over a dry weather-beaten face, the cold deserts of Spiti is characterized by stark beauty, narrow valleys and high mountains. A century ago, the famous Rudyard Kipling (of Jungle Book fame) in his book "Kim", called Spiti "a world within a world" and a "place where the gods live" - a description that holds true to the present day!
How true and poignant the words are.
Well! getting back to my blog,we left Chandratal by 7AM,I suppose everyone in the group were spurred to action that morning by the sheer cold prevailing in the open camp and wanted to huddle inside the car and get to lower altitudes.
We retraced the treacherous road,but this time went ahead of the Kunjom turn towards Rohtang Pass.We stopped at the popular "Chacha Chachi" Dhaba at Batal for about 45 min,recharging ourselves with breakfast and tea and the hot Parathas coming out fresh from the Tava was a great hit along with chutney and mirchi
The cars drove on relentlessly, hour after hour on bad dirt tracks until we reached the vicinity of Rohtang Pass when we could see tarred roads again and the cars could speed,
It was past 12:30 when we stopped at Rohtang Pass to stretch our legs a bit.
Rohtang to Marhi and going downhill all the way until we stopped at a wayside restaurant for Lunch.Eventually we drove into Manali and reached Mountain trail hotel by 4PM.
Spent the evening walking to Old Manali via the Hidimba temple and browsing the shops.Sat at a Cafe drinking coffee and snacking before taking an Auto back.The group met in the evening,as a "last Hurrah",as some were extending their stay in Manali,some were leaving for Delhi by bus etc.
Day 10
Manali - Chandigarh
A day long drive of about 300 Kms and we were taken to the Railway station and Airport to return home.
Julley!!! Our Fantastic 18....
The group dynamics was good,co-operative and full of free-for-all fun
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| Standing from left: Prisca,Mital,Arpit,Me,Sumee,Amitanshu,Medha,Tashvi,Amit,Murari,Sweta and Sakina
Crouching : Mayank Sitting next:Parikshit and Heta Sitting in front: Pooja,Sauvik and Nikesh
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Acknowledgement:
Thanks to all 4 drivers who drove us on the trip and made it possible to reach all the locations.They performed very well.Cheers!
To the Organisors including Guides who did their best under the circumstances.
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