Bali..The Hindu Dot in the Indonesian Archipelago

Kuta Beach

Mt.Agung

       

Whenever thoughts linger over "Bali" it brings  memories of  the hugely successful, Rodgers and Hammerstein's 1958 musical "South Pacific".In the movie,Bali Hai is referred to a mystical island,visible on the horizon but not reachable.The mysterious song  "Bali Hai" sung by "Bloody Mary" with its haunting orchestral accompaniment was truly a treat to watch.For afficiandos of musicals  a reminder of the beginning.... 
Most people live on a lonely island,lost in the middle of a foggy sea,
Most people long for another island,where they know they will like to be,
Bali hai may call you,Any night any day,
In your heart you'll hear it call you,Come away,come away
Those were my memories of Bali Hai with its cloud covered mystery mountains 
Trivia:Today,Bali Hai refers to a boating excursion firm and a brand of lager Beer sold in Indonesia.
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Day 1 Our tour begins in Singapore..the city/state/country continues to amaze me every time we set foot here.Our last was in 2004.
We were happy to travel by Mass Rapid Transit,the Singapore metro which is efficient as everything else and took us close to our "Little India" hotel.The markets were bustling with shoppers doing their purchases to usher in Diwali.Streets were festooned with Diwali decor.Komala Vilas, the famous eatery,maintains the same location and size and continues to serve mouth watering delicacies.Mohammad Mustafa has expanded into a behemoth,selling everything under the Sun,to the delight of China, maintaining competitive pricing.                                                              
 We ambled along the river bank towards the Cavenagh and Anderson bridges,viewed the Merlion and the Marina Bay Sands resort...the world's most expensive stand alone Casino fronting the Marina bay.From the outside we could see the complex  topped by a skypark,accommodating 4000 people,with a pool set on top. (world's largest cantilevered platform).Marvel of modern architecture and construction!
Day ended after a simple meal with local friends  
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Day 2
After an uneventful flight on Air Asia we reached Bali by mid day and drove to our Resort in Candidasa. The first hint of our historical/traditional connection with Bali was noticed,near the airport, when we passed the enormous Satria Gatotcaca statue. The erection of the statue,apart from being a landscaping project, is supposed to lend spiritual protection for people coming in and going out of the Ngurah Rai Int'l airport.
Most of the  90 minute ride was on the major arterial H'way connecting South Bali to North until we deviated to head east towards our destination.
Candidasa is a seaside town that rests on the edge of a fresh water lagoon.We opted to stay here as it is often described as a more sedate and laid back area as opposed to the teeming,nightclub filled Kuta with its sprawling beach or the large,manicured resorts at Nusa Dua.

Rama Candidasa Resort

Beers by the pool side was most relaxing after a long day and we dined at their Ocean front restaurant listening to the surf.

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Day 3
From backpackers on a budget to well heeled honeymooners,solitary Spa junkies and family holiday makers throng Bali in millions to spend days/weeks,in this paradise...each with their own agenda.
We sat down with our driver cum tour guide and decided that we will try and see as much of the natural landscape as well as get to know the tradition of Hindu Balinese.Our driver Gejor was located on the Net and came recommended by Trip Advisor.Pleasant,unassuming and soft spoken he took us on our visit to Tenganan village,in the proximity of our Resort.
On the way ....
Do you have a caste system?
Yes we have Brahmana,Satria,Wesiya and Sudra and I am a Sudra.
Do you believe in the trinity? Brahma,Vishnu and Siva?
We call it Sanghyang Widi Wasa..the supreme being,B,V and S are his /her manifestations and also we have Surya,Durga (name for Parvati) and Ganesh.Also we worship Dewis and Dewas associated with Rice fields,Lakes,Sea and so on...
Do you believe in temple worship?
Absolutely!We have house temples,village temples,regional temples and mountain temples.
(Balinese Agama Hindu (Agama meaning religion) is really an amalgam of traditional animist beliefs with Hinduism overlaid)
What do you offer the Gods in Bali ?
He smiled ... I will explain and show you as we go along.....
In the early morning hours sidewalks,steps,statues,and temples,scrubbed clean,are ready for the daily gift of offerings meant to appease and please the various gods and demons of Balinese Hinduism. Canang is the name of the rectangular shaped carafes.They are made from a palm frond and filled with flower petals and other natural elements.Preparation of these offerings is a daily activity for local women and is seen as the ultimate act of devotion.Balinese Hinduism is all about maintaining balance between the physical,spiritual and invisible worlds.                                                           
 
These little tributes are seen all over the city and could be as simple as a small and fragrant frangipani adorning gods,arrangement on steps leading into a house or guard a door way.Bali is a little anomaly in the middle of Indonesia and the daily worship of Balinese Hinduism is in stark contrast to the Muslim faith practiced mostly in the country.

Reached Tenganan village,above,and paid a small donation to enter. Selamat Datang was what the board said to mean "welcome".A well built Tenganan accompanied us and took us around the clean village showing houses,temples,play grounds all in the midst of lush foliage and introduced us to temple priests.He took us to his beautiful home where his wife

Temple

was weaving cloth in their traditional itak double weaving pattern.Dyes used were natural, stuff picked up from hills and forests. Tenganan is home to original Balinese(Bali Aga).Their culture is very traditional and about 200 families live,cloistered at the foot of the hills,practicing farming, weaving,etching and carving.At the central sports field a Pandanus war is staged in July every year,where men use spiky Pandan leaves (screw pine)to strike each other,in honor of Lord Indra,God of war.
Taman Ujung water palace was next on the agenda.The complex consisted of various large pools and historic structures set against a backdrop of Mount Agung and the eastern shoreline.We had a relaxing walk in the park climbing up to a platform from where the panorama was truly wonderful.I present a collage below.The King who married a Dutch lady has done a great job

In one section there are panels depicting Mahabharata,see etching above.
Trivia:The older generation are happy to meet Indians to learn more about epics like R and M. which most households have seen on TV.They want to know whether Kurukshetra exists,they are keen to know about the Pamban bridge and whereabouts of Lanka where Sita was imprisoned.The youngsters refer to us as people from the land of Sharukh and Salman and to this day sing "Chaiya Chaiya...."
As we were driving to our next spot,Lempuyang temple,we passed through a village where the roads were festooned using decorated bamboo and the houses had special offerings in front.It was a religious ceremony day,the driver explained.The small umbrella protects the offering

The offerings may consist of coconut palm leaves, roses, jasmines,frangipanis with some biscuits, coins,rice,candies and a few joss-sticks Lempuyang Temple in Bali,locally referred to as Pura(temple) Luhur, is one of Bali’s oldest and most highly regarded.It is also believed to predate the majority of Hindu temples on the island.it is at a height of 1175 meters and reachable via a steep staircase of over 1,700 steps.We did not want to climb all that much.We still enjoyed the splendid views at the first level temple at the foot of the mountain.The first to come into view on the pilgrimage,this temple offers an impressive sight with its towering dragon staircases.From here we could clearly sight Mt.Agung in the distance.

Start Bottom right,anti-clockwise: First level temple gate,temple with Mt.Agung in background,steps for next level,Dragon,At the gate with Mt.Agung in all its glory

Why do I keep talking about Mt.Agung?
Mount Agung,is Volcanic and the highest point in the island at 3150 meters.It dominates the surrounding areas influencing the climate.The clouds come from the west and Agung takes their water so that the west is lush and green and the east dry and barren. Agung last erupted in 1963 and is still active, with a large and very deep crater which occasionally belches smoke and ash. 
We have one more location to visit today and it goes by the name Tirta Gangga.It means holy water in balinese and refers to the gushing spring  flowing from beneath an old banyan tree and filling the pools here.The waters of the spring have been praised by island healers to possess healing powers and hence the Raja named it after our own Ganga.
A pool is designed with stepping stones to walk on and observe the rather large fishes there.Many were feeding bread,Kids could play hopscotch,.It is a great place to relax and think about lunch.Yes,lunch was taken at an airy eatery inside the the perimeter of the gardens and later we ordered a Balinese desert Dadargulung. Tastes somewhat like our Kozakkattai,but the filling is Palm sugar,grated coconut,eggs,some cinnamon.green coloring comes from Pandan leaf paste.It was served floating on a chocolaty syrup and was yummy to the core                                             
                                                                                                                 




In Bali one can find black and white checkered cloth draped around Gods,sculptures and trees.It is borne out of the belief that spirits reside inside and is a mark of respect.Black and white also denote alternating life of good and bad.

Late afternoon we were back at our Resort and as we took a dip in the pool heard Bengali being spoken.The family was from salt lake,Kolkata and are addicted to travel.The day light receded gradually and we were looking at a lovely evening sky, over the ocean dotted with lights of the boats and ships.

Thereafter it was massage for her and local BINTANG beer for me/us.We loved it and became our favourite tipple during the trip.

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Day 4

The day was bright and sunny and we started with another important temple.Goa Lawah or the Bat Cave temple; was established in the 11th century by priests who laid the foundation of Hinduism in the island. It features a complex built around a cave opening that is inhabited by hordes of bats.Entrance fee paid,we were given mustard colored Sarongs with saffron sashes to tie around our waist.

"Nobody minded my cap and
 I kept it on to save my scalp"

The entrance(Pic above) to this temple was different than the one we saw yesterday.The centerpieces inside are age-old shrines which have withstood the hordes of Bats chirping in a frenzied din around and behind the shrines at the cave opening.There is also a Shivalinga which has stood for thousands of years.This temple served as a  place for deep meditation for priests,despite being seemingly impossible amid the chirping, with the hollow cave opening amplifying the noise.Yet, people believe the natural high pitches of the Bats aided in focusing. Very interesting!

Per local legend,the cave also hides a river of healing waters and a giant snake with a crown, that feeds on these bats.But unlike our Indian temples,tourists are not offered a Tika on the forehead or given sacred water in the palm of your hand.And you definitely cannot do a Parikrama!!
Our next port of call....Palace at Klungkung was constructed at the end of the 17th century with spacious courtyards, lush manicured gardens, pavilions and moats but largely destroyed during the Dutch colonial conquest in 1908. Today the basic remains of the palace are the court of justice called Kertha Gosa. Accompanied by Brahmin priests,the king used to judge here those cases that could not be resolved by the local Magistrate.The table and chairs are still in place.Within the old palace compound is also a floating pavilion surrounded by a moat with water lilies.The paintings that adorn the roof of the complex  are the original works of Klungkung artists.The gilded frescoes depict Hindu mythology from Mahabharata.Compared to Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel paintings,these are quite small,but have the same feel.Mythology and art are melded together 

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 Made short work of the Palace museum.which displayed artifacts from 18/19 century as well as those of the Dutch later.But coming out of the museum we saw this beautiful palace gate,that bears the date Saka 1622 (AD 1700)

What the tourists see today is actually a reconstruction,as the original Klungkung Royal Palace was destroyed by the Dutch during attacks in 1908. In the early 20th century,the Dutch unleashed their reign of terror on Bali and started forced occupation.The Royals of Klungkung refused to yield to the Dutch, thus inciting them to set themselves up, outside the Royal Palace to attack.Then came the black day in the history of Klungkung when the Dewa Agung and 200 of his courtiers marched down the street and committed a "Puputan"a ritual group suicide stabbing each other with ceremonial Kris,rather than submit to the foreign power.

The weather portended rain as the car drove us north towards Kintamani.Suddenly dark clouds loomed and there was heavy showers for the next half hour as we negotiated traffic and then got going on the south-north arterial road.Lush green land greeted us on the slow climb while enjoying our conversation with the Driver.The fertile Kintamani area is a top producer of fruit and vegetables.Additionally,the northern part at 400 metres above sea level,is cool and is the biggest bamboo producer on the island.The crescent shaped Lake Batur,the largest lake in Bali is the main source of irrigation water for most of Bali. Locals also breed freshwater fish here.

A scenic view point and a burst car tyre made us stop;the weather was excellent and the rain had let up.The driver was working on the flat while we stood and watched the lake and the mountain.It was overcast and the pictures were a bit dull.But that was soon taken care of when we stopped at a vantage point further on with a restaurant perched high and offering a grand view.This is the view of volcanic mountain with the lava path clearly visible and the lake with a grand cloud cover making it mystique

At the restaurant a veg Nasi Campur was ordered... pronounced Nasee Champoor,the BalineseThali,a dollop of Rice,potato,vegetables,noodles,tofu,and separately a dish of sambal spicy sauce.Indonesians eat plenty of meat,but their diet also includes tofu,tempeh,vegetables and rice.Tempeh is a soybean patty,a fermented version of tofu; considered to be healthier as it is less processed and the beans are whole.Other delicacies include,Gado Gado – a potpourri of vegetables,eggs,chips etc with peanut sauce;Jukut Arab – A Balinese salad of lightly blanched vegetables (typically bean sprouts and green beans) and grated coconut;Tempeh Satay –Tempeh skewers with peanut sauce;Nasi Goreng – Fried rice that can be made with just vegetables;Mie Goreng – Fried noodles that can be made with just vegetables.There is no formal recipe for any of this,you can ask for what you want as sides.

With a bottle of chilled beer we spent some time here after our lunch.We took a different route on our return passing through many villages and seeing different kind of "offerings" in front of houses.We sat at the Resort restaurant in the evening with beer and finger chips and rounded off with a meal of Nasi Goreng with chicken.

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Day 5

We headed for  breakfast much earlier than usual and the morning was cool and the view outside was wonderfully serene.There were boats moored on the shore nearby indicating that the activity for the day had yet to begin.It presented me with a decent photo-op.

Finishing our check-out formality and luggage loaded,we began our excursion to Ubud,where we will spend the remainder of this holiday.

Departed at 7:30 and on the road for an hour going w-sw,covered about 55 Kms before we reached Gianyar in central Bali,to see a popular cultural show called Barong dance

Definition:The Barong dance is the classic story of good (The Barong) triumphing over evil (The evil witch Rangda). The Barong is a large lion type creature played by two men.The Barong is going about his business until he is interrupted by Rangda. Ultimately a battle ensues and the Barong’s followers begin attacking Rangda with their Keris (daggers). Rangda, being a witch,is able to use magical powers to turn the daggers against their owners, who fall into a trance and try to stab themselves.Ultimately Barong saves them

                          

Performance: Story line revolves around Sahadewa of Ramayana fame: Elaborate and colourful costumes are the Novelty factor and central to the show.There is much to be desired in the actors ability,including the dancers who were more like show pieces.The sequence played out could not be followed from the poor English handouts provided. 

Conclusion: Probably a good Barong performance,by their standards,but needs a more detailed story translation so the audience is able to follow.The audience got restless,half way through and it went down hill from there.Well,for the 7.5 usd pp ticket,it is a good experience for an hour.

On the way to Ubud we stopped at a gallery of paintings and spent sometime browsing the Balinese expertise in abstracts, landscape,flowers,gods,portraits and we could see that the locals were good at their work.Next we went to see a water fall. Tegenungan waterfall is unique for its lush green surroundings and heavy water flow,perfect for swimming,as we could see. Gelato was available nearby and we pounced on a couple of cones.We saw this fantastic statue of Arjuna followed by the music players,at a traffic junction .Both were awesome

We were now in Ubud driving towards the Monkey forest; the famous sacred sanctuary,home of the grey long-tailed macaques.The rain arrived and there was traffic jam caused by a local festival.Instead of heading into the monkey forest  we decided to explore the Art market and were particularly attracted to some abstract paintings that were on display.We owned a couple after a few minutes of bargaining.We also took care of our hunger by sharing a large Pizza.We were then driven to our Hotel and bid adieu to our driver of 3 days.

Our Hotel is in Monkey forest road and is located at the main town centre, in the proximity of the Royal palace and the famous art market.From where Monkey Forest Road starts,rows of shops,boutiques and outlets line its sides together with many guesthouses and hotels,restaurants and small day spas as also our hotel Kaje Ne Mua. 

Time- 3:30. After a very cordial reception we were taken to our spacious room which was looking like a bridal chamber with flower decor on the bed and everywhere else.

We were offered Coconut water in look alike containers along with some refreshments.Hot coffee was also brought in.There were extra little touches like a shopping bag and Hat for use while at the hotel.

We just put our feet up and relaxed, gathering our thoughts.Our exertions of the morning left us with no desire to pursue further activity in the afternoon.Curiously,though we were on the main thoroughfare the noise level was low,there wasn't that mindless honking of vehicles.We noticed this everywhere as also the fact that there were no "strays".

Something special about this Hindu island.

    greens,sprouts,shredded cabbage,
fried potatoes and tofu,
 eggs,shrimp chips,and more in
aromatic peanut sauce

At 6 in the evening we walked out to the pedestrian sidewalk,side stepping window shoppers and gathering a handbill or two from the lot who were canvassing for massage,tour operators,private taxis for day tours,callers in front of restaurants and pubs.

It was "Happy Hour" time and Bintang was tempting. A couple of hours flew away as we partook of the Beer,finger chips and Gado-Gado (see pic),listening to music amid the mild chatter of the masseuses outside who were without clients.

Such was the first day at Ubud

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Day 6

Breakfast with its host of options was great.Stepped down from the BF deck to the side walk below. We had many ideas for the morning but a Nature walk among the rice fields of Ubud won.No matter where you stay in Ubud,lush green rice fields won’t be far away.One of the way best ways to enjoy them is to venture out and find a small track leading into the countryside.We decided to take the help of the Hotel and was glad to hear that they took care of dropping and picking up guests in the Ubud 

area,as courtesy   

                                                                          

Coconut carvings

Ten minutes away from the hotel the driver dropped us at an alley way that led to the rice fields.As we walked,saw stunning green everywhere, farmers at work with scythes,gaggles of ducks dipping in the mud, and other aspects of traditional village life. It’s hard to remain unmoved by the ravishing beauty here.Passed through small artsy villages,merely a few houses long, with galleries and resident artists ready to show their craft.We were not alone.We met villagers on bikes and mopeds transporting daily needs;a tourist from Austria,a Ski instructor,always working with ice and snow was delighted to see the lush greenery.As far as the eyes could see it was paddy all the way up to the hills yonder.We spent an hour and returned to our lodgings.Our next activity began at 12:30.This afternoon we were going further south past Denpasar and Kuta to see the Pandawa beach as also the sunset at Uluwatu.

Traffic was quite dense but we managed to get past Denpasar, and on the way we could see the famous Rama statue depicting the Pamban bridge building scene with the Vanara Sena,very well depicted.

Kuta beach--crowded as expected;took a break for refreshments and left for Pandawa beach an hour's drive from here.

It is a secluded Cliff-Fringed Beach locally referred to as ‘Pantai Pandawa’ and is a great addition to Bali’s collection of gorgeous beaches. Located on Bali’s southern Bukit Peninsula it is hidden behind large carved limestone cliffs that reveal wide views to the Indian ocean.There are six white stone statues draped in colourful Balinese waist cloths,namely Dewi Kunti, and the five heroes:  Dharmawangsa (Yudhistra), Bima, Arjuna, Nakula and Sahadewa,of whom I have shown the last as others are also cast in similar mould.

Gorgeous"hidden"Pandawa beach

Finally we rush towards Uluwatu Temple,not to miss the sunset; renowned for its magnificent location it is  perched on top of a cliff at the edge of the Ocean.The views of the water surging up against rocks and the horizon are remarkable.A small forest lies at the front and hundreds of monkeys dwell here.They are believed to guard the temple from bad influences.I was one such,,,my cap was snatched away and chewed thoroughly and left aside

"Alas at the end my cap was lost
picked by the monkey who was wrought
by hunger,am sure that was the cause
bitten and chewed it was now dross"

Uluwatu is definitely one of the top locales on the island to go to for sunset delights, with direct views over the beautiful Indian Ocean 

Our trip ended the next day when we took the flight from Denpasar to Singapore and Mumbai.

Bali has great beaches,temples,volcanic mountains,lakes,surfing and diving and resorts great and small,but it’s the essence of Bali – and the Balinese – that makes it so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun retreat.In reality,the inhabitants of this small island are indeed a generous,genuinely warm people. 
At the end of it all I felt quite proud and elated that we had just been to a land that also practices Hinduism,albeit differently,and follows the epics M and R as much as our country people do! It was amazing!

Selamat Tinggal ...Bali,I will try and come again

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Selamat Tinngal