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| The Genius |
A visit to Austria is consummated only after visiting Salzburg and getting to know Mozart a little more.This and the fact that Sound of Music,the movie that is still holding sway,was filmed on location here, makes it necessary to see Salzburg when you are in this part of the world.Ours was a very brief visit of two half days.
A 6 AM train from Prague brought us to Linz Hbf. This is where Adolf H grew up honing his anti semetic skills.An hour plus travel from Linz is Salzburg. The scenery changed considerably as we entered Austria...lush green and well kempt country side.It was already mid-day,very warm and sunny as we entered the portals of our Hotel.
Within is the venue Kuenburg Hall,where we will be attending a Mozart concert later.The square was dominated by the statue of W.A.Mozart,see above,in front of which stood a lone violinist playing wonderful pieces from the Mozart repertoire.
We moved on,time on our side, and chanced to see the magnificent fountain that features in the SOM song I have confidence in me.Also the building of the Neue Residenz is crowned by the famous Salzburg's carillon* located in the bell tower.It is a wonderful arrangement of 35 bells that chime music with selections from Mozart,Haydn and other famous composers,delighting the inhabitants and tourists at 7AM,11AM and 6PM every day. The carillon has operated in Salzburg since 1704.
*set of bells hung in a tower and sounded by manual or pedal action, or by machinery.
Next we come upon the imposing castle complex from the 11th century.Fortress HohenSalzburg is a real eye-catcher over the Baroque towers of the city.A visible landmark,it is an unmistakable part of the Salzburg silhouette.
Next we come upon the imposing castle complex from the 11th century.Fortress HohenSalzburg is a real eye-catcher over the Baroque towers of the city.A visible landmark,it is an unmistakable part of the Salzburg silhouette.
We were about 20 guests in the Hall and were accorded a warm welcome by the compere Maximilian Kiener,dressed in historical costume. He guided us through the concert with anecdotes and facts about Mozart. Those of you who have seen the movie Amadeus know all about this genius.
For this evening the program comprised of a lively Overture KV 118,
Walked back from the square,feeling hungry and thirsty and found an open air Cafe,you do see plenty of these which offer you food and wine good enough to see you through...After cooling our heels for half an hour we went to see the Mozart Wohnhaus (residence) on the other side of the bridge.From 1773 to 1787,the Mozarts lived here.That's more than a third of his short life..The spacious eight-room apartment on the first floor is now home to a museum.Then he moved to Vienna.He died there in 1791,just 35.He was composing the Requiem Mass,K 626,which was unfinished and completed later.
Next, Mirabelgarten...Who can forget this garden which has been seen extensively in "Sound of Music" (SOM) when Do-Re-Mi was sung.The fountains and steps are seen in the song.It was built in 18th CE and countless statues inspired by Greek myths are seen all around the park which also has large symmetrical flower beds.
With this we complete our first half day in this pretty little town
Day 2 Sound of Music Tour After a very bright and warm welcome,yesterday,we were greeted with an overcast sky as we set out to walk to the Coach that would take us on our tour.There were many buses and all were packed to capacity.A 70 year old lady acted as our guide and she was a darling! First up she takes us to a serene spot near a lake and asks us to look across to a huge mansion.
Leopoldskron Palace was one of the most important locations.The rear view was used for the Trapp family home. The family drank lemonade with the baroness on the terrace here. Maria and the Baron dance on the balcony during the ball scene, and the children fell into the adjacent lake during boating expedition.The water was freezing cold as Maria tries to rescue someone as the boat topples.(This from the guide).
Next we drive to Hellbrunn palace inside which in a corner is located the glass Gazebo which was used for filming the songs;Sixteen going on Seventeen and Something Good
With the Sun peeping out for a while,here we are at the Hellbrunn Alley through which Maria comes running along dancing with her guitar and her bag singing the last lines of I have confidence in me...stops and gazes in wonder at the mansion of the Baron,captain Von Trapp,from outside this very gate.This is palace Frohnburg. This is the same gate through which the Trapps move their car noiselessly for the escape.Today,it houses music students from the Mozart Music Academy.Some Trivia.....As heard from our Panorama tour guide
The opening song The Hills are alive with the sound of music was shot in Germany on a farmland.It was raining and windy when they filmed that scene over the course of a week in 1964.On the final day of shooting,the Sun came out for a short while to get Maria's iconic twirling shot.The birch trees were brought in just for the movie and were taken out after filming ended.So was the brook,actually plastic filled with water.Maria had to battle a helicopter that kept blowing up a tornado of wind on the hill.Her hair and clothes had to be refreshed after each of the nine takes that took to get the scene canned.
We see the Nonnberg Abbey from a distance.It is the oldest continuously existing Nunnery in the German-speaking world.700 CE.The SOM scenes shot here include the opening part where nuns go to mass and Maria is tardy. How do you solve a problem like Maria was shot in the courtyard of the Abbey.Later,the children come to the Abbey's gate to ask Maria to return to their home.The escape scene,with the cars parked outside the Abbey gate,was shot here too.
We are heading towards Mondsee to see the church where the wedding of Maria and captain took place but not before stopping at Wolfgangsee,a beautiful lake in the outskirts of Salzburg. The clouds were hanging low threatening rain and the light was not very good.
Proceeding to Mondsee we
had to walk a bit from the parking spot to the Church and were right in the middle of a cycle race,on a Sunday,in that small town with a population of 3500.I suppose there were half as many tourists braving the rain,curious to know where Maria wed Von Trapp,while the locals were rooting for their favorites.
The downpour got heavier as we ducked into a restaurant for a much needed break and some eats after the exciting half day,reliving memories of 1965.
Well!we are done with the tour and driving back and the senior lady guide starts singing SOM songs and we all..most of us at least,sang along with much gusto,watching some wonderful scenery pass by.She dropped us at Mirabel gardens which was the last stop on the tour for others on the bus.
She had enlivened our excursion with SOM trivia,witty explanations of places and their histories,as well as the life of the original Trapp family.
We politely took leave of her and walked to the railway station a short distance away to catch our train to Vienna.
Later we boarded our flight to Delhi,wishing Auf Wiedersehn to Austria.
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Note: Panorama tours are highly recommended for SOM nostalgia.They are at it ever since they were contracted by the SOM team for ferrying their cast and crew on location in Salzburg.
es and spires, the formidable clifftop fortress and the mountains beyond. It's a backdrop that did the lordly prince-archbishops and Maria proud.
Beyond Salzburg’s two biggest money-spinners – Mozart and The Sound of Music – hides a city with a burgeoning arts scene, wonderful food, manicured parks, quiet side streets where classical music wafts from open windows, and concert halls that uphold musical tradition 365 days a year. Everywhere you go, the scenery, the skyline, the music and the history send your spirits soaring higher than Julie Andrews' octave-leaping vocals.
