Sunderban,West Bengal

Whispering Winds

Sunderban has been in our bucket list for a few years now and we were talking to some friends in Kolkata to get hold of a tour operator,.In May'18, I chanced upon Sundarban Houseboat who claimed  superior-experience-in-the lap-of-luxury. Owner Roy was very pleasant to talk to and provided an overview of the trip, packages available and the cost.Rest is history....

Overview 

The Sundarbans is a magnificent tangle of mangrove jungle that's the only one of its kind in the world.It is often called the Amazon forest of the east. It is spread over approximately 10,000 square kilometers at the mouth of the Ganges and Brahmaputra rivers between India and Bangladesh,and bordering the Bay of Bengal.Only 35% of the Sundarbans lies in India The Sundarbans are considered World Heritage Site. It is intersected by a complex network of tidal waterways,mudflats and small islands of salt tolerant mangrove forests.The interconnected network of waterways makes almost every corner of the forest accessible by boat.Named after the ‘Sundari’ tree found here in  abundance,it is home to many species of birds,fish,reptiles amphibians and the only population of salt water Crocodiles in India.What also makes the Sundarbans unique is that it's the only mangrove jungle in the world to have tigers -- and,they're strong swimmers! Long stretches of nylon net fencing have been installed on forest boundaries to prevent the tigers from venturing into villages.You should be lucky to see one of the 100 tigers though.They're very shy and usually remain well hidden. 

                                            The Journey
We were 3 guys,classmates from National High School, Kolkata,who along with spouses embarked on this trip.A meeting of friends after a gap of many decades.
We were picked up from our Hotel/Residence and driven to Godkhali Jetty past Canning. The journey was eventful as it provided ample time to sing,joke about and share stories of events long gone that made us most nostalgic and filled with longing for the past. We arrived at the Godkhali Ferry Ghat around 12:30 and headed straight for “Whispering Winds” where passengers from the previous tour were disembarking.

Shortly we were on the upper deck of the boat enjoying very sweet coconut water.The deck was well appointed for our comfort; it had a large dining table to seat 10, Sofas to relax and watch the mangroves go by,TV and music system.They had even provided deck chairs and bean bags in the prow and aft of the boat
We went down to view our accommodation and were pleasantly surprised to see 3 well appointed AC double bedrooms with en suite bath.Clean sheets towels and a wardrobe too!
A very elaborate veg lunch was served prepared on board by an executive Chef.A local fish dish was served for those who had opted for it,This was followed by Mishti Doi,Sandesh,Rosogolla and fruits.What more could one ask for.We would see  excellent  culinary handiwork on display over the next 2 days



Once we settled down we all took turns at the wheel and guided the boat.It was so easy.The Captain was sitting next to us.We picked up our Naturalist deputed by the forest dept and proceeded towards Sajnekhali nature reserve. Sajnekhali serves as the entry point of Sundarban Tiger Reserve as tourists collect permit from here. Moreover, a Mangrove Interpretation Center is there to make people familiar with the mangrove ecosystem. The watchtower is good for spotting birds. We made short work of this tour and returned.



A small group of one of India’s most-threatened turtles, the northern river terrapin, is finding refuge in four breeding ponds here, under an ambitious plan to repopulate the species in the wild.This board indicates efforts taken and the status 

I got a shot of this salt water crocodile also known as estuarine croc moving around in the pond here.Looks quite timid but he will win the race over a tiger in the open waters.Males can grow upto 6m long!
Breeding of Crocs has been successful and their population is steadily increasing.

Tiger prawn seedling or "Bagda" collection is common along the forest-village interface and is mostly done by women and children.They are prone to attack from Crocodiles,Sharks and Tigers.But they carry on never the less as it is their livelihood.

Traveling by boat has its own charm and when you add to that the world's largest river delta and the huge expanses of Mangrove forest the effect just multiplies.So it was for us.We enjoyed a heavy late afternoon tea as the boat glided over the serene waters.

The Sundarbans is celebrated through numerous Bengali folk songs and dances, often centered around the folk heroes, gods and goddesses specific to the Sundarbans like Bonbibi to the right and Dakshin rai,the tiger God. 

In the evening a cultural show was organised on the top deck where a group of local  females  performed folk dances to the accompaniment of a vocalist and Pakhawaj. It was a good dance by the ladies who were all farm workers by the day and do this for tourists in the evening.It went on for 2Hrs nonstop.Eventually all of us participated in the dance and had a great time!

On the second day we were all up early and saw a beautiful sunrise at 6AM,Here it is.

We feasted on a large breakfast and relaxed on the deck watching the mangroves go by.Here is a narrow channel with mudflats and mangroves close by on either side.We were sitting on deck chairs at the prow.

Our Naturalist had arrived and he briefly dwelt on the damage caused by the last Cyclone.


Sundarban cyclone
Tropical Storm Aila struck southern Bangladesh and eastern India in May 2009.Wind speeds had reached 120 kph. and water levels had risen from two to seven meters. All sources of drinking water had been salinized. The tidal surge had killed 300 people and caused over 8,000 to go missing.Some 2.3 million people were affected by the cyclone and damages were conservatively estimated to be upwards of U.S.$ 40 million.
We see a large croc sunning itself in the swamp.

By midday we dock at the Dobanki camp.

From the watch tower, we took the elevated path set up some 20 feet above ground and covered with iron mesh on either side. From here you can have spectacular view of Sunderban forest.Part of the Sundarbans is shielded from tidal inflow by embankments to help villages and agriculture thrive. During the monsoon   season, the low lying agricultural lands are waterlogged and the summer crop (kharif crop) is therefore mainly deep water rice or floating rice.

After another grand lunch we chatted,sang and saw boats go by and soon it was dusk and the Sun went down.We docked at a village for the boat to pick up supplies and some of us decided to take a walk.There were a row of shops selling daily necessities,Stuffed animals ..mostly tigers and other handicrafts made of wood.Shopkeepers were pleasant to talk to and bargain.Further ahead there were a number of lodges for tourists opting to stay for a night or two.There was even a church lit up for the ensuing holiday season.

I observed that a number of travel lodges have sprung up in the Sundarban villages for catering to the tourists who come in great numbers.These tourists hop from village to village in boats that have only "sitting" accommodation and complete the circuit by staying in lodges.Ours was a unique experience travelling by the "sleeper boat" on the round trip.
Back in the boat we had a light dinner and stayed up to watch a Hindi movie.Previously we had watched documentaries on Sundarban Tigers,both WB and BD.

Day 3...Today after breakfast we docked at Sudhanyakali reserve.After disembarking at jetty, we trooped to the watch tower. On the way we were told that a tiger had tried to assault a man who was taking a Selfie with his phone sometime after 5Pm yesterday..(Tigers disapprove Selfies!!) That would exclude tourists.In any case tigers can't jump the tall fence set up all around. 
There is a grand concrete watch tower from where you get a panoramic view of the forest that has been cleared to facilitate movement and sighting of animals.A large pond has been created to provide water.

With this our tour winds up and we return back to Godkhali ferry ghat and bid adieu to the captain and his staff.Just in case you need the details of Sundarban Houseboat, here it is.

I leave you with this saying..

You don't see the Tiger but the Tiger sees you and is happy that you have visited Sundarban

Maui,Hawaii

For two decades, Conde Nast Traveler readers have voted Maui – the Valley Isle – as the Best Island in the World. Their reasons are found everywhere: on ancient volcanic slopes, in the valleys that gave Maui its nickname, along miles of scenic shoreline, and in its azure coastal waters.It is the second largest of the five islands that make up Hawaii.With its rugged landscape of cliffs,volcanoes, waterfalls, tropical foliage and beaches with gold, red, black and even green sands it is a perfect vacation spot for those longing for the beach,surfing, paddling,cycling,rock climbing et al.
On a cool morning we boarded the flight from SFO and flew 4.5 Hrs on the Pacific to reach our destination some 2000 miles away.ALOHA said the lady welcoming us into the car rental at  Kahului airport where a long line had gathered.Not long after we were on our way with tummy pangs pushing us to reach the " Coconut's Fish Cafe " and enjoy some great sea food.

Every bit of the food was delicious and we promised to come back for more.
Ready to commence journey to our Wailea Condo some 20 miles away,we picked up provisions and were on our way.
RCI,was  kind to us.Our Condo was a massive 2 bedroom affair with every amenity and comfort thrown in.We had a picture postcard view of the sea from our LR.

A while later we were at the nearest beach testing  the waters of the Pacific and playing in the surf.We relaxed on a grassy knoll abutting the beach sands and sipping "Skinny Jeans" India Pale ale brewed in Waikiki,as the Sun descended leaving the clouds behind bathed in fiery orange.We had plenty of company as many tourists had taken vantage positions to see this spectacle.Here are a few pictures. 

Dinner was next on the agenda and we drove to Paia a one horse town 30 min to the North of our Condo. If you want truly Maui specific food choice Paia fish market is where you should go.It is a name of the most famous eatery which specialises in....? Fish.Place is crowded and you share the table with others..but all for a cause.Great food!After a decent wait we got Sashimi,Tuna on Cabbage and a fish plate with coleslaw and a fish hamburger.It was nice to enjoy and share the food in the relaxed atmosphere.For Desert we had ice-cream at home.

Day 2
To find excellent views of Maui's beautiful coastline all you have to do is  drive,stop,park and explore.

After a good breakfast we were out early.Reached Paia town in the north which is the starting point of the scenic highway to Hana which is the eastern tip of the island.
Paia which was once humming with sugar plantation workers has now become a laid back town with local businesses,shops and restaurants nestled along Maui's best beaches still surrounded by sugar cane plantation.From Paia the road to Hana is a scenic H'way that twists through lush rain forest and cascading waterfalls that line the shore.First stop was Ho'okipa lookout.This lookout is on the edge of a grassy cliff overlooking the popular surfing end of the Ho'okipa beach.We were in awe watching all the surfers tackle huge waves.The famous green turtles could be seen here at the beach level.

 

We drove on and stopped to trek a bit towards the Twin falls crossing a lush bamboo growth.However,before long we were advised that the pathway was closed and we retreated.Found this exhibit of surf boards by the side of the road.

 

After a good hour of non stop driving we reached the half way point and stopped as the board advertised original banana bread.The shop keeper lady was baking fresh ones and we had a go.It was good to eat and the break allowed the driver some relief after non stop driving on the twisty road.We passed this waterfall  just beside one of the many one lane bridges and a great stop.Easy to see from the road but we made the short hike and stopped for pic like this one here.It is in Puaa Kaa State wayside Park which consists of a large rain forest with water falls and pools.
Then came the show stopper of the day.
Waianapanapa (Glistening water) State Park and its black sand beach...  a mesmerizing stop along the Highway.
Some funda..A fascinating thing happens when hot lava is cooled quickly by the sea—the basaltic rock shatters and creates black sand.This is how the black-sand beaches in Hawaii are created,including this black-sand beach,made hundreds of years ago when Maui’s large volcano,Haleakala,last sent lava flowing.Heavy rainfall has since turned much of the hardened lava on the coast into dense foliage,and now the beach’s bright green shrubs set against the dark-black sand and deep-turquoise sea produce a landscape that dazzles visitors every day.(See the photo at the top of this blog)


 

A gorgeous lava tube publicly accessible and  impressive in its antiquity and beauty opens up to the ocean and makes for stunning photo-op.

Hana town is not far now and we made it in the next half hour.It is in the eastern extremity of the island and we have traveled 63 miles from our condo in Wailea in the west. Hana was sleepy and quiet at this hour as we scouted for a place to eat.This is what we shared ...the 4 of us.Fish and Chicken with salad and rice.
James Michener, called Hamoa beach the most beautiful beach in the Pacific and so we had to see it.This crescent shaped beach is rimmed by cliffs,covered by coconut palm trees that gives it shade and beautiful flowering vegetation.It has a mixture of coral and lava sand.
We spent a quick 20 minutes and got out.

 



Our last top for the day was the the Haleakala National park to see the waterfalls and the sacred pool.An entry fee of $25 was charged with a validity of 3 days which meant that we could use the ticket tomorrow for visiting another park.

The sacred pools better known as Ohe'o gulch is an idyllic valley cut deeply over countless millennia by a rain forest stream punctuated regularly along its course by cascading waterfalls and plunge pools until it empties into the Ocean along the rugged Kipahulu coastline.

The Park had great facilities complete with a Ranger station displaying useful info,campground,large paved parking lots and washrooms.For those interested in Rain forest treks there is Pipiwai Trail,a treasure of the National Park System that passes through diverse scenery and culminates at the base of an absolutely spectacular waterfall.It is~2 miles long.We only had a short trek towards the ocean past the Banyan tree and spent time looking at the cascading waterfalls,pools and the waves crashing against the rocks.Great sight.

For return we did not back track but went due west back towards Kahului in the north from where we would return to Wailea our starting point.The road was rough for the first hour but after that we had a beautifully paved road with gorgeous views of the landscape bordering the ocean. We were lucky to see another rainbow,our second for the day. Unfortunately we had a tyre blow out as dusk was gathering but a lady from a nearby Ranch came to our help and we reached Kahului for vehicle replacement.Later we celebrated with another  sumptuous fish dinner and headed home after a great day of outing!

Day3
Today we are setting out to see the Haleakala crater or the Park Summit area which is a 2 hour drive.Vehicles are allowed to enter the Summit District from 3:00 am to 7:00 am to view the sunrise. The one-day $1.50 sunrise reservation can be made up to 60 days in advance.Since we did not make the advance booking we did not aim for the sunrise and began our drive at 8AM 

 Geologically Speaking...

The summit area is actually not a typical crater formed by volcanic activity (such as you would see on the Big Island of Hawai’i.) Haleakala Crater was formed over eons as the result of erosion of the entire volcanic mountain top. Over this period of time, smaller lava flows back-filled the eroding valley, building up the floor of what is commonly called the Haleakala Crater. The cinder cones that dot the landscape here are the last of these most recent eruptions.

To reach the Summit we had to ascend 10,023 feet in a mere 38 miles rendering the road to be quite steep.Twenty nine switchbacks comprise the stunning course and we could see vastly diverse eco system that ranged from lush to barren.

At the parking lot...getting out of the car we could feel the cold strong wind and got into our jackets for comfort.A set of steps lead you to the rim at this altitude from where we got the most outstanding out-of-world experience.We are looking at the enormity of the crater with the many hills surrounding it.Rust coloured cinder cones dot the landscape as also the Maui central valley. 

A set of deep Space Observatories could be seen in the vicinity. The entire Crater is 7.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide with a circumference of about 21 miles.Little wonder that it inspired Mark Twain to remark "I felt like the last man,neglected of the judgement,and left pinnacled in mid-heaven,a forgotten relic of a vanished world".

We had a great time in the cold wind swept environs of the crater and were awestruck by the overwhelming nature of the views around.We spent time at the visitor centre indulging the Ranger who satisfied our curiosity by replying to questions.We could even glimpse the form of the Island of Hawaii in the distance.

Kalahaku overlook - We drove down a 1000 Feet and parked here.

The rim overlook, at 9,324 ft., provides not only a simply superb view of the crater floor but also of  the cinder cones clearly visible from this vantage point. There is an observation deck here with plaques that explain the different types of volcanic formations

Haleakala is dormant but dying.No molten lava has issued from 1790.Although it may erupt again the great volcano is nearing the end of a fiery history which began about 800,000 years ago.Erosion,now the dominant force is gradually wearing the aging volcano down.

Coming down from the summit we headed for lunch to Mama's Fish house.A good hour's driving brought us here and we found free valet parking to our delight.This is a fine dining restaurant by the side of the Ocean with its sea food driven Hawaiian menu and Polynesian decor.

A bit of trivia is in order.Celebrities flock to this place while in Maui and the place is booked for many days in advance.We had no booking! Neeharika comes to our rescue.She sweet talks to the receptionist (just the previous day) into believing that a senior couple have come all the way from India to celebrate their WA in Maui and they would be delighted to have lunch here.That did it. We not only got a nice table but a Lei was presented to Vasumathi and I garlanded her.

We enjoyed the cocktails,sea-food and their black pearl desert (chocolate mousse in a pastry sea-shell) and there was never a dull moment in the restaurant and the staff were very cordial.

Later we spent time under the shade of the palm covered beach in the front of the restaurant looking at the sea and surf and taking pics. Also visited the Ocean Overlook point before returning home.The evening was spent watching the sunset from the confines of our condo...and what a 
sunset it was.Here it is in sequence.

Day 4
After a short visit to the nearby beach we packed and checked out having spent 3 memorable days here.We stopped for brunch,returned our car and took the return flight to Sanfrancisco.
'
 Mahalo Maui!

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