A bit of history:
Early in 1535, the Portuguese had led an expedition for the capture of Diu,but were defeated by the Sultan. However,around the same time Gujarat's kingdom was overwhelmed by Mughal invasion. Pressed by Humayun on one side and the Portuguese at the gates of Diu, Bahadur Shah entered into a treaty with the Portuguese who would assist in forestalling the enemy.In turn permission was granted to construct a fortress and a harbor at Diu. After the Mughal danger receded, the Shah of Gujarat realized his mistake in allowing the Portuguese to construct the fort. Finally Diu was conquered by the Portuguese in 1546 who ruled there till 1961.
The ATR turbojet aircraft laboured for an hour to deposit us on the other side of the Gulf and soon we were at our hotel.Unlike Goa,inspite of over 400 years of Portuguese rule, the inhabitants of Diu display no resemblance to Portuguese and seem to comprise mostly of Gujaratis,both Hindus and Muslims.
In an area of 40 SqKm,the island thrives as a watering hole for those inclined,for liquor shops and Bars abound just as in Daman,or it serves as a pit stop on the larger tourist circuit comprising Gir,Somnath,Dwarka.Once you are done with Lions and Godly pursuits you can engage in your favorite tipple for a day or two. Other than tourism and brisk sale of alcohol the economy is only fishery.
We took a walk towards Diu Fort,the main attraction that draws people here,who watch the sea from the ramparts lined with Cannons.The walk along the sea-front was refreshing on a good,clean street with a side walk and very little honking traffic.We could see a vintage Pension (pencion) on the way.The entrance to the fort promised more to come but that was not to be.The Fort was decrepit and is left standing as a Portuguese relic.Some pics.
sat down for a Beer at a bar on the way back after a glimpse at the offshore cellular jail.We could not take a boat trip to view the ruins there as it was under renovation.May be they are running out of jail space in the city.
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Day 2
I must say that the weather was cool in the morning and the sky was blue.There was a bit of Nip in the air as we drove down to do some of the sights here.
The very ancient Gangeshwar Mahadev temple next to the sea, comprising five Siva lingams in a row attributed to the Pandavas and able to withstand the fury of the sea and its tides.The water pays its respect and the sanctified lingams have not been eroded.There is a Seshanag carved above on the rock which watches over the Shiva Lingams. Every night at the time of high tide,these Lingams are cleaned with crystal clear water leaving them fresh for the next day's offering by the devotees.
We drove down and climbed a short mound to see the memorial for dead sailors at Diu. It consists of a scale model of INS Khukri encased in a glass chamber facing the sea. Khukri was torpedoed in combat during the Indo-Pak war of 1971 and sank not very far from Diu. Over 18 officers and 176 sailors were lost.Captain Mulla,refused to abandon ship,passed his life-jacket to a junior officer and chose to go down with the sinking ship.
We see a clean beach below void of any activity at this time of the day.
The arterial road that we take to do these points of interest is well maintained and it was a pleasure to drive with the sea alongside and green patches developed with seating strewn around for people to sit and enjoy the panorama.We noticed this everywhere though many seats are in a state of disrepair,especially those made of wood perhaps many decades ago.
We head inland next to look at St.Paul's church,a functioning church which is an early baroque style edifice completed in 1610.The interior of the church is decorated with intricately carved woodwork that is considered one of the most elaborate in any Portuguese church in India. Its interior is impressively designed with delicate volutes and shells.The facade is also said to be the most detailed of all Portuguese churches built in India.The altar,which has the image of St.Mary, is carved out of a single piece of Burma teak and lit up with many candles.
The preacher himself was tending to the thoroughly kempt gardens in front and was unearthing turnips from the vegetable patch inducing a small crowd to buy it and take it away.This way they could make a small contribution to the church he was saying as we walked away.
Naida Caves are a set of artificial caves interconnected by a network of tunnels,with natural
openings that let the sunshine stream in on the rock formations below.It is believed that the Portuguese broke down sections of a huge rock formation that they used for construction of the Diu Fort and this labyrinth was created.The Caves are located just outside the city wall of the fort. However, it is also said that the caves were formed due to geological irregularities and processes over a significant amount of time.Whichever... it is an interesting place to explore.
Yusuf bhai our driver cum guide was telling us all along that many locals,over the decades after 1961 have been taking up citizenship offered by Portugal and migrating there and then to UK for better prospects.These NRI's have slowly transformed Diu by renovating their old homes or acquiring land to construct houses and resorts.No wonder 'old" Diu which one enters through the Zampa gate does not have many "old" houses anymore.
Zampa Gate was the official gateway to the city during colonial times.The administration has renovated the structure to recapture the past glory. It is illuminated with lights. Can be visited near sunset in order to get the best light for photography.Nicer it would have been without all those hoardings...especially the one of AB staring down from there.You can't get rid of him however much you try.
We went in and found the place clean albeit without period architecture.What we saw are reproduced here.
After lunch and afternoon siesta we desired to walk along the bridge that connects Diu to main land Gujarat.No big deal.But a curiosity to be satisfied as we were seeing the bridge and the traffic upon it ever since we opened the balcony door to our room.A decent bridge,fairly wide and well lit spanning the creek and providing a good sized walkway for strollers.The view of the sea,boats and the Fort was an added attraction.The Sun was setting as I got this picture.
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Park in front was much appreciated.Clean with a nice walking track,a bit of water in the middle with a good arch bridge,Trees for shade and facilities for children makes it a good fixture bang in front of the Church turned museum.
Hokka tree
These palm trees are native to north Africa and most probably were brought here by the Portuguese. In due course they adapted and grew aplenty throughout Diu including the shore of the Nagoa beach.Locals call it Hokka. They are not found elsewhere in the country and they bear edible fruits that have medicinal properties. In fact I remember having seen them on our Kenya Safari many years ago.
This is the section of the Nagoa beach were we sat for a while sipping beer and munching chanachoor. There is a semblance of water sports in the form of para gliding,water scooters and motor boats.But even on that Sunday there were more drinking beer under the shade of the Hokka than attempting a swim in the calm sea.A tourist like me asked the bustling wine shop owner..."Kya idar baitke pisaktahoo? Han Han,bilkul pisakteho,Araam se ped ke neeche bench mein baitke jitna chahiye piyo, Koi nahi puchega. Puchegatho? Usko bhi zara pilado bhai.Hum kisliye hain?"
A Can/bottle of Beer is only 80 bucks.A decent beach where an hour or more can be spent.The ride of 20 min by car from our hotel to this beach takes the excellent airport road and goes a little way beyond the airport.
Finally,Diu has everything you need for that offbeat retreat: serenity,crystal clear waters,clean sand and a huge abandoned sea-side fort.It’s the peaceful getaway you’ve been looking for.
Add it to your bucket list!
Ciao
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