Travel is the only thing that you buy
that makes you richer
that makes you richer
There is a place on earth that even the most seasoned travelers consider a privilege to visit....BHUTAN - the land of the thunder dragon.Tucked away from the modern world and perched high on the Himalayan range,the kingdom of Bhutan has defied globalisation and chosen to remain a hidden paradise. Declared as a global hotspot for its boundless Nature and pristine environment Bhutan is a land with an air of mysticism, in its Stupas,Monasteries and Forts spread all over this small kingdom.
Day 1 Paro/Thimphu
It was a nice experience travelling Bhutan Airlines from Delhi.For a change the flight was just half full and the attendants,all girls from Bhutan,in their national outfits of Kira were ever so graceful and served our sumptuous breakfasts with a smile.Landing a plane in Bhutan is a job for certified Captains only.Paro airport at 7300ft above MSL is located in a deep valley which is obstructed from view by high mountains 18000ft high.So you come over the mountains,dip and take a deep bank to the left and align over the narrow pass available and drop speedily to land.As the runway length is short the plane has to quickly decelerate too.Whew!
We could feel the chill as we got out of the plane and spent sometime taking in the surroundings;the terminal building with a large portrait of the King,Queen and son.It was 11C when we met our guide and driver outside and after introductions with much bowing and handshaking we were seated comfortably for our ride to Thimphu. Wangda our guide was giving us an outline on Bhutan as we sped accompanied by Paro Chu (river).The skies were gray indicating showers.
We stopped at an enchanting view..On our way we saw this board that said"A healthy Nation requires a healthy society.Let's build a healthy Nation free of Drugs,Alcohol and Tobacco".
Little did we know then about the nature of people here. We asked Wangda whether he was happy in Bhutan with its limited opportunities.He said Yes I am happy for whatever I have and with Buddhaji to show me the way, will strive hard to keep myself happy and contented.
Soon we approached the outskirts of Thimphu,Capital of Bhutan and saw a few tenements and shops as against hills and rivers so far...When asked for the population of Bhutan,he asked us to guess and I said 10 million.He smiled and said it was not even 1 million.It is around 800,000.Thimphu has 125,000 people.
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| Winding hill roads and Thimphu town |
Bhutanese currency is Ngultrum (BTN); 1 BTN=1 INR and Indian currency up to Rs 500 is accepted at all establishments.Foreign currency up to a max of $10,000 can be carried into the country.
We paid Rs.30 for a 5Km shared taxi ride to the centre of the city in a well maintained taxi and the driver spoke chaste Hindi and English.As we walked on the decent sidewalk the first thing we noticed was this traffic constable standing atop a colorful traffic island,in his smart dark blue uniform and cap and controlling traffic in his inimitable style.
There are no traffic lights in Bhutan and traffic islands are also very few and only on busy intersections in the principal towns.
It was a little after 4 PM and school leaving time.Saw boys and girls in smart uniforms walking the rain soaked sidewalks.. Gho for the boys/men and Kira full length for girls/women is the official dress norm.Our guide and driver always wore it.Entered shops and browsed until we saw a smart backpack at a good price and grabbed it.It was a good experience talking to shop keepers who are soft and respectful,full of manners.One can bargain a bit.We returned to our hotel by a private taxi and paid Rs.150.Buffet dinner at the Hotel was like eating in a restaurant in India more because of the large delegation of Indian Doctors(36) from Karnataka.
I must mention here that Indian tourists are the largest numbers in Bhutan for the reason that we don't need a Visa and can enter with our passports which is stamped at entry.Even Voter ID with photo is valid.This also applies to Bangla Desh and Maldives.Any other national have to obtain a Visa and spend a minimum of $250 per day.This is to deter low cost tourism.To ensure compliance visitors must sign up with a registered Bhutanese tour agency before arrival.
Day 2 Thimphu
Buddha Point-Perched at a 7333 ft above sea level overlooking the Thimphu valley,is a recently constructed (and still under construction) monument with a gigantic bronze-plated Buddha.It cost 100 million dollars and most of it came as charity.At 170 ft it is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world.The Buddha is surrounded by 108 goddess statues making it a grand spectacle.But that's not all.Encapsulated inside its enlightened bronze chest are 125,000, 8" and 12" statue of Buddhas also bronze plated.That accounts for the high cost.
There is also grand Stupa at the entrance gate which forms the background in this pic.
Our next stop,in the center of Thimphu,was the Memorial Stupa built to honor the third king (the current king is the fifth since Bhutan became a constitutional monarchy in 1907).This is a magnificent structure over 50 feet to the top of its golden spire.The interior has several sumptuously-decorated levels.The grounds surrounding it contain beautifully-manicured lawns,gardens,and open-air temples with prayer wheels.
It was back to the hills to visit our first monastery — Changankha Lhakhang Monastery.Among the oldest in Bhutan,it was built in the 12th Century on a spot selected by a Tibetan immigrant (most Buddhist masters in Bhutan came from Tibet). A long stairway of stone steps led to an ancient tree and then to a lovely lawn. It is surrounded by 108 small prayer wheels as represented below.
New born babies are brought here for christening by the monks.We saw one such ceremony being performed. It is short and at the end of which the monks are honored with payment.And the joy writ over the parents' faces warmed our hearts.
We were driven up to the Sangyang viewpoint.... for a view of Thimphu nestled within the hills... including the Palace,Hotel Taj locally called Taj Tashi,playground and other features.
The Takin has been chosen as the National animal of Bhutan because it is a rare animal and a native of Bhutan.It is closely associated with religious history and mythology of the country.So we visited the Takin Preserve.It's worthwhile taking the time to see these oddball mammals that are kept in a large fenced enclosure along with Sambar deers. It is a strange creature and is classified as a goat antelope.It was a good ramble through the preserve.
Folk heritage museum in Thimphu was established in 2001 by the Queen mother Ashi Wangchuk and
dedicates itself to connecting people with rich Bhutanese folk heritage and rural history through its exhibits.Quite an impressive three storey building but I felt the exhibits could have been spruced up a bit and kept in glass cabinets with spot lights etc.It was very dull without proper lighting.
We were ready to call it a day when our guide said that he would take us for a stroll in the park.It is a lovely park for a decent walk along the riverside with childrens' attractions and a beautifully kept garden.Highlight is the Buddha statue in the centre of the park.Built for the coronation of her majesties' the king and queen.
Day 3 Thimphu,Dochu-la Pass, Punakha
We are going to drive from Thimphu (7300ft) climbing to an altitude of 10100 ft to Dochu-la Pass on our way to Punakha valley at 4000 ft. Weather was crisp and cool when we left Thimphu and in less than 45 minutes we reached Dochu-la and were looking at the eastern Himalayan range.
Day 3 Thimphu,Dochu-la Pass, Punakha
At the top of the pass is the incredible sight of 108 Stupas.These were built in memory of the 108 Bhutanese soldiers who were killed in the 2003 battle against Indian rebels during the first ever “Operation all Clear” conducted by the Royal Bhutan Army.Wandering around these Stupas looking at the snow clad peaks in the distance in the cool and clear weather was a great experience. 
We entered the village near the Temple of fertility or Chimi Lhakhang and parked.From here it was a walk through a wide path cut through terraced rice fields to the Shrine.On our way we saw this tree sprouting "bottle brush" flowers! Never seen anything like this before.We sat under the shade of the large luxurious Bodhi tree for a while enjoying the serenity.
The temple is dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kunley (1455-1529) also known as ‘The Divine Madman’.Thanks to him and his outrageous and outlandish style of teachings,phallic motifs are now visible on houses and buildings all around Bhutan,believed to drive away evil spirits.The monastery is renowned as a fertility inducing magnet,pledging that all who wish to conceive will find guidance at the temple.Myth and folklore cloak Chimi Lhakhang and its maverick saint.Being a tantric master he preached Buddhism in an unconventional manner,by way of song,comedy and shocking sensual connotations. He actively encouraged phallus symbols to be used throughout the design of the temple in paintings and carvings.To this day,the monastery safeguards the original wooden phallus symbol, embedded with a silver handle, from Tibet, that is used to bless visitors and pilgrims.
Displayed are pics with phallic art that isn't taboo here.It's found everywhere from shops to homes.As souvenirs,lockets and chains.As bizarre as it may sound the natives of Bhutan take it very seriously.
Our last stop for the day...Punakha Dzong (Fort) is arguably the most beautiful Dzong in Bhutan with its towering white washed walls.This Fort was the second to be built in Bhutan and it served as the Capital and seat of Govt.until the 1950's,All of Bhutan's Kings have been crowned here.It is 600'long and 250' wide. and is built at the confluence of two rivers.We cross this bridge to enter the Dzong.
We see a steep staircase leading up to the entrance of the Dzong. Our guide has an added item of clothing to enter this sacred place.A shawl like apparel across the body.After we climb the two sets of steps and enter a huge door we find the painting of Buddhist astrology on the wall on the right.
Inside of the Dzong is beautifully decorated with carved woodwork and colourful paintings.
The Kuenrey or temple/Congregation Hall,at the far-end, is the highlight of the Dzong. As required,we take off our shoes and enter. Inside, mammoth effigies of Buddha,flanked by Guru Rinpoche [Padmasambhava] and Zhabdrung Namgyal (the great Lama),soar towards the ceiling. A riot of colour reveals hundreds of painted dragons on the ceiling whilst the 12 episodes of Buddha’s life are narrated on the wall murals.Our guide patiently explains the details of Buddha's life as depicted and it is interesting to hear once again all that we have read about Buddha and Buddhism.
We ordered some Bhutan Red Rice beer in the evening and cooled off in the garden- with- a -swing as the cool evening air comforted us after the warm conditions of the day.
Day 4 Punakha
This morning we are undertaking a trek to Punakha Chorten (Stupa). Locally called
Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten,it sits majestically on a ridge above Punakha valley with amazing view of the countryside and the hills below. It was built by the Queen Mother to ward off evil forces and bring peace and harmony for all living beings. It is one of the finest examples of Bhutanese architecture.
We park the car on the bank of the river and walk across a suspension bridge.The iron bed and steel cable look new,but the towers look old.No one knows exactly how old.The first iron suspension bridges in Bhutan were built over 500 years ago.From the bridge we can see folks rafting downstream.
On the other side,we find a narrow track along a little creek and through the rice paddies.The way the terraces are built and the irrigation water is channeled from the creek is all very scenic.
At the foot of the hill the paddies end and the real trail begins.Here there’s a big prayer wheel in its little shelter.We find a 90+ man who has been walking up to this wheel and turning it and chanting prayers,He has been doing it daily for the last 10 years he says.After a 10 min rest we start climbing up.The hill is hot in the open but refreshing when the trail surrounds pine trees,with nice views up and down the valley.After 45 minutes I glimpse the Stupa through the trees.We enter the gate and are staring at a magnificent creation.
There is this main 4 tiered Stupa surrounded by 108 beautiful Stupas and four snow lions in 4 directions. A golden spire towers over the top of the Stupa adding to its allure.
The first three levels of the Stupa are filled with wrathful guardian deities who are engaged in protecting,challenging and transforming the soul.They are depicted as most fierce and energetic.We walk through listening to our guide.
Finally, at the 4th level we emerge on the temple roof! The view is awesome.And here,at last,is a modestly sized,classically posed,golden Sakyamuni Buddha,peaceful and welcoming. Our Guide,as is his wont,prostrated thrice and chanted prayers.
Finally, at the 4th level we emerge on the temple roof! The view is awesome.And here,at last,is a modestly sized,classically posed,golden Sakyamuni Buddha,peaceful and welcoming. Our Guide,as is his wont,prostrated thrice and chanted prayers.
Having survived all the transformational challenges of the wrathful deities the peaceful and serene Buddha has emerged.
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| The Sphire |
View from the top is fantastic! to say the least.Hills,valley,the meandering river all vying with each other to produce a great treat for the tired eyes and aching limbs.Such a beautiful setting could be imagined as heaven with Buddha in control. It is a real WOW.
We rested and explored the grounds as we came down seeing all the smaller Stupas in a line and an exit gate.Before exiting we saw a White marble Buddha seated under an enormous Bodhi tree.
We returned to our car and drove to the Punakha suspension bridge 20 minutes away.Enclosed by the mountainous Bhutan hills, Punakha Suspension Bridge is decked with vibrant prayer flags.The Bridge spans 1100 ft and dangles above the meandering mountain river, Po Chu. The thrill of walking across one of the longest iron bridge is an experience.I found a young monk who was most willing to pose for me.
After lunch we took a long drive to a high altitude location in the Wangdue district where we saw a couple of wind turbines.This is the region where they are building a Hydro electric power plant with Indian collaboration.The views were great and so was the breeze.On our return we drove through Wangdue town which we found to be no larger than a township of a steel complex in India,Population of the town was 9000 and it is a district capital!
We checked out of Drubchhu after breakfast and proceeded uphill towards Dochu-la and Paro. On the way we stopped at Royal Botanical Park at Lamperi just before Dochu-la and relaxed here for a while in cool weather..First thing, we met this Sambar deer at the entrance and our driver played around with it.We had a good amble in the woods,around a lake and saw some locals playing cricket.I chased some birds and see what I got.
We resumed our drive to Paro with just one more interesting stop.Our guide stopped the car at a point on the Pass and we got down and scrambled across the road to see miniature Stupas spread all over the nooks and crannies of the rocky underside of the hill.I got this close up of golden colored ones for effect.It is shaped like a inverted Top with carvings.These are all offerings by people.
Lunch completed we visited the National Museum of Bhutan.This museum was aided by GOI to mark 50 years of friendship between India and Bhutan. It gives information about animals,birds and flora and explains history and geography of Bhutan.It has an interesting section on masks worn at various festivals. The original museum,was affected by an earthquake and was closed for renovation.There is a lovely view point nearby from where we could see Paro airport,Paro Fort/Dzong and the original museum.
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| Paro Fort |
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| Museum |
Day 6 Paro- Tiger's Nest (Taktsang Monastery)
We are going to attempt an arduous trek today.
The monastery is located 6 miles to the north of Paro and hangs on a precarious cliff at an altitude of 10,240 ft, about 3,000 ft above Paro. The elevation gain is 1700 ft from base camp.. Round trip is estimated as 4 miles.
It is one of Bhutan's most recognized spots.Even people on the quickest tours of Bhutan find the time to make it here.Why? Because this place is extraordinary.It is stunning in its beauty and location. Read on....
It had begun to drizzle last evening which became rain at night.Come morning it was still raining and our guide called to say that he will come at 9:30 instead of 8:30 after ascertaining weather conditions for the trek.It could be slippery he said.
When we left our hotel it had stopped raining though the overcast conditions remained.We reached base camp along with guide at Following is the account of the journey.10:00.We are walking towards the horses looking at souvenirs stands.
10:25 We are on the horses.So effortlessly he lifted and put us on the horse.Even on the horse we find the way to be tricky.Horses stop to drink water and the bring us up to the cafeteria point somehow.There is also a large prayer wheel here..
11:10 We are on foot from here as horses are not allowed
beyond this point. I am not even carrying my walking stick as
I had not planned on the climb.Tiger's Nest appears high up and so small from here.
Meet a family from Assam (5) who are also trekking and they are very friendly.
12:15 We are climbing still..good...But path is very uneven and full of ruts and stones. Luckily it is not slippery inspite of overnight rain.Guide is helping VJ here.
12:30 There are prayer flags everywhere,flapping in the wind and praying for trekkers' welfare.We plod on.Guide locates a stick for me to make it easier.He is singing and whistling while we are struggling.
Weather is holding and it is not hot!
12:40 Here is another view of Tiger's Nest.We are
getting closer,. Yay!
12:50 At last we have reached the point where the steps start. There are 800 of them to get through and we go up and down.Back breaking but we are managing by the grace of Padmasambhava. As the steps are narrow human traffic bunches up. Stop and go.Stop and go.We take it real slow as we need all our reserve strength.
1:00 As we turn the corner we can see the elevation at which Tiger's Nest is perched.It is a marvel that it is standing at the edge of the cliff for so long.First built in 1692 with manual labor it was reconstructed in 1998 using cable cars to transport material.The cable cars were discontinued upon completion of work.Idea is to earn this auspicious sighting with effort
1:10 A waterfall from a great height on our left and it surfaces and travels below the bridge which we cross. It is a gorge
1:20 A beautiful dense Rhododendron tree shows up on the last leg.It provides great inspiration to climb the last steps.
1:30 Finally we are here and step on the Monastery perimeter.
Whew..Wow..We did it ! It was a great team effort indeed! It was a Henry Higgins,MFL moment!
Once at the monastery doorstep,we took a much needed breather before going in.We were asked to leave all our belongings inside a locker.
The fumes from incense and the chants from inside the monastery had a calming effect.We had to climb up a little more.My legs were dead by then and required great effort and will power for every step up.
According to the legend related to this Taktsang,which literally means "Tigress lair", it is believed that Guru Padmasambhava flew to this location from Tibet on the back of a tigress.This place was consecrated to tame the Tiger demon. He meditated for three years, three months and three days in this cave, a place which later gained religious importance,and that is how Tiger’s Nest or Taktsang Monastery came into being.The guru has been known to have founded the Mahayana School of Buddhism, and later on purified it to preserve integrity of Buddhist culture.We saw him inside and took his blessings.We spent about 45 minutes inside the monastery which was teeming with monks and tourists.
A hot cup of tea was provided by some volunteers at the gate of the monastery as we prepared to start our return journey...we encountered the dreaded steps again but we also saw smiling youngsters on the trail who congratulated us for achieving the target and said we were a source of inspiration to them.Our spirits soared and we got the energy to walk back!Our guide would sing Kishore songs quite well and I would join in.He performs with his guitar at local pubs and clubs.We were home and dry in a little under 3 Hrs and the expedition that had started at 10:30 ended at 5:30.
We resorted to some pain killers but our tremendous achievement induced decent sleep that night.
Day 7 Paro - Delhi - Mumbai
We were fresh in the morning albeit with pain in our calves and thighs.We had a good breakfast and checked out.Our driver and guide came one last time to drive us to the airport.They got us trolleys and put our bags on them and said their Good Byes.The interaction over 6 days had strengthened our bond and we invited them over to Mumbai.
On the flight from Paro to Delhi we flew over the Himalayas and viewed Mt.Everest and others
The fumes from incense and the chants from inside the monastery had a calming effect.We had to climb up a little more.My legs were dead by then and required great effort and will power for every step up.
According to the legend related to this Taktsang,which literally means "Tigress lair", it is believed that Guru Padmasambhava flew to this location from Tibet on the back of a tigress.This place was consecrated to tame the Tiger demon. He meditated for three years, three months and three days in this cave, a place which later gained religious importance,and that is how Tiger’s Nest or Taktsang Monastery came into being.The guru has been known to have founded the Mahayana School of Buddhism, and later on purified it to preserve integrity of Buddhist culture.We saw him inside and took his blessings.We spent about 45 minutes inside the monastery which was teeming with monks and tourists.
A hot cup of tea was provided by some volunteers at the gate of the monastery as we prepared to start our return journey...we encountered the dreaded steps again but we also saw smiling youngsters on the trail who congratulated us for achieving the target and said we were a source of inspiration to them.Our spirits soared and we got the energy to walk back!Our guide would sing Kishore songs quite well and I would join in.He performs with his guitar at local pubs and clubs.We were home and dry in a little under 3 Hrs and the expedition that had started at 10:30 ended at 5:30.
We resorted to some pain killers but our tremendous achievement induced decent sleep that night.
Day 7 Paro - Delhi - Mumbai
We were fresh in the morning albeit with pain in our calves and thighs.We had a good breakfast and checked out.Our driver and guide came one last time to drive us to the airport.They got us trolleys and put our bags on them and said their Good Byes.The interaction over 6 days had strengthened our bond and we invited them over to Mumbai.
On the flight from Paro to Delhi we flew over the Himalayas and viewed Mt.Everest and others
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| Mt.Everest |
