11/30/19

Scandinavia Part 1..Stockholm ( Sweden) Bergen ( Norway)



To explore a refreshing mix of old and new and to get inspired by a city that takes nature seriously,there is no place like Stockholm,the capital of Sweden.
Our tour started here.

Stockholm is part of an archipelago and is surrounded by sea and the large lake Malaren. It is  mix of water,greenery and architecture.

The bustling,compact island of Gamla Stan  where we stayed is the city’s old town, with cobbled streets,a warren of alleyways and colorful 17/18th-century buildings.One of the largest and best preserved medieval city centers in Europe.



Crossing the Royal Palace,we walked on watching people pedaling to work by the side of this mammoth lake.
 
Our walking tour started at Sergels Torg, Stockholm's living room;this square is a key transit hub as well as a great place to catch the pulse of the city. Something's always going on here,be it an impromptu music performance or a hundreds-strong political demonstration.

We walked along Drottnigattan  (and you thought German was harsh on the tongue) a famous pedestrian street crowded with tourists at the numerous shops flanking the way.One of the largest being the Ahlens city department store,a large fashion chain.
It was very much in the news in 2010 and as recently as 2017 when terrorism reared its ugly head.


Arguably the smallest public sculpture in Sweden it is named  Järnpojken ("Iron Boy") .The statue is under 6" tall and is sculpted by Liss Eriksson. It personifies his  childhood memory when he during sleepless nights used to sit on his bed to stare at the moon through his window. It's informal and restrained manners makes it one of the most appreciated pieces of art in the city.Fondled by crowds of tourists  as the shiny head shows,it is given coins and goodies.Stockholmers occasionally knit mufflers and caps for the boy to wear during winters.



Next to Royal Palace is Stockholm medieval Cathedral, built in 1279.The big attraction is the statue of Saint George subduing the Dragon. This has to be one of the most beautiful churches in the world.




Stortorget : Big Square.It is the oldest square in Stockholm,the historical centre on which the medieval urban cluster gradually came into being.Today, the square is frequented by tens of thousands of tourists annually. However Stortorget was the scene of the Stockholm bloodbath.During a time of political upheaval in the 16th century, Christian II of Denmark conquered Sweden and became its king. After he was crowned, he celebrated with several days of feasting, but at the end of the celebration he took a more murderous turn.Eighty-two of his guests who were faithful to the prior ruler, including bishops and noblemen,were taken to the Square and beheaded

Stortorget today looks beautiful with its a coloured facades,restaurants,coffee shops and cocktail bars and is a great place to rest your tired feet sipping Beer or having a coffee with a pastry in the afternoon which is the Swedish custom.


By Mats Halldin 20:00, 21 March 2007 (UTC) - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1818

As we were returning after our morning outing,crossing the bridge with views all around, we were in for a surprise.At the *Royal Palace the military band was conducting the changing of the guards ceremony with great fanfare.It is a celebration of Swedish heritage.We heard the band and the tourists coming together and so we also joined the crowd and watched the Fun!

 *The Royal family does not live here.They reside at Drottninghom since 1981 which is in the outskirts of the city.




In the late afternoon we set out again to explore. Remember Stockholm is made up of a number of islands and beautiful bridges connecting them? We
walked towards the bridge connecting  Skeppsholmen which we could see on the other side.From the bridge we could see the Grand Hotel where Nobel laureates and their family are guests. National Museum was also seen.. 

At the centre of the bridge is a large crown placed there  so that I could use it as a prop for this photo alongside. To feel like Royalty! Heh Heh!

They say " Uneasy lies the head that craves/wears the Crown" so we gave it up quickly and marched ahead.
It was a lovely summer evening with a gentle breeze blowing,conducive for couples to spend some quality time together in the woods.We also took the bench nearby resting our feet and gazing at a sailing ship moored there..We learnt that this old ship is used as a youth hostel!

We walked back and enjoyed a lovely ice-cream before calling it a day!

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We started our walk slowly enjoying the beauty of Kungstradgarden.(Repeat that word quickly five times..Ha Ha)It is one of Stockholm’s oldest public parks.The name,meaning “The King’s Garden”, is derived from the area’s royal history.From 1875, the park  is open to public.
Later we walked through Kungsgatan another busy street where we were shown some important buildings.
All major European cities include a de rigeur must-stop at their open markets full of fresh produce and flowers.Here it is called Hotorget. It's centrally located in the city and the market has apparently been around in one form or another since the 17th century and part of it turns into a flea market on Sundays.

We saw the concert hall,one of Sweden's  masterpieces built in the neoclassical style. It is home to the Royal Stockholm Philharmonic Orchestra. Apart from being a venue for world-class concerts, it hosts the annual Nobel Prize Award Ceremony.The famous Orpheus Group sculpture by the main steps was created by sculptor Carl Milles who has executed many such projects  here.. 

What is Stockholm Syndrome?

A psychological response wherein a captive begins to identify closely with his/her captors, as well as with their agenda and demands.The name of the syndrome is derived from a botched bank robbery in the city.In August 1973 four employees of a Bank were held hostage in the bank’s vault for six days.During the standoff, a seemingly incongruous bond developed between captive and captor.One hostage, during a telephone call with Swedish Prime Minister Olaf Palme,stated ironically that she fully trusted her captors but feared that she would die in a police assault on the building.

What is a fake Nobel Prize?

The one that Trump ordered for himself and has proudly exhibited it in the Oval Office in 2018.

Our team on the free tour! I took this photo...upon bidding goodbyes we embarked on the next part of our tour for the day.
Not very far from Gamla Stan but on a different island is the City Hall. It houses offices and conference rooms as well as ceremonial halls and a luxury restaurant .It is the venue of the Nobel Prize banquet after the award ceremony and is held in the Blue Halll which is attended by the Swedish Royal family and around 1,300 guests.Our guide informed us that the space available between two diners is 5cm, except where the winners are seated,where is it 7 cm.The Nobel Peace Prize banquet is held in Norway.Little wonder that City Hall is one of Stockholm's major tourist attractions.
The magnificent ceiling inside has a Viking theme and looks grand in bright shades of gold and red.The Balls after the Banquet are  held in the Golden Hall.The walls of the hall are covered completely in mosaic.As in the photo below the northern wall depicts the Queen of Lake Mälaren. She is at the centre of the world holding Stockholm in her lap.On her right is the western world and her left  the Orient with an elephant. The southern wall displays scenes from around the Swedish capital, as well as historical motifs. The Golden Hall at Stockholm City Hall is open to the public through guided tours only.
After feasting our eyes on this spectacle we climbed up to the Tower which offered a commanding 360 degree view of the Island city and its bridges.                                                                 

We were back at Stortorget the main square,roamed around looking at the German church and later sat in a coffee shop with Cinnamon buns and Coffee.We were right next to the red house named Ribbinska Huset featuring 82 white stones offsetting the red construction,said to memorialize the guests who were killed in the blood bath right here in 1526 that I reported earlier.We also looked up the Nobel museum in the proximity.It tells the story of the founder Alfred Nobel who was a prolific inventor with over 300 patents the most famous being the Dynamite that was used to usher in the modern age by blasting the way to make Canals, roadways and tunnels.Nobel became a very wealthy man and left his fortune to fund the Prize in his name.Photos of all the Nobel laureates are also put up here.
Returned to the Hotel after a long day!
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It was glorious summer weather.We learnt that the Swedes love being outdoor in any weather and in summer it is considered a Sin...being indoors.
Bought a day ticket to Djurgarden island a place for museums.. Caught a ferry from Slussen  after coffee and cake at Salz n Brot. We saw the ABBA museum but our interest was to spend time at the VASA museum nearby.
Restored VASA
VASA museum History
Seventeenth-century Sweden was an up-and-coming state with great ambitions.A ship called Vasa was built as the flagship of the new Swedish navy.
VASA scale model

On August 10,1628, the Vasawas complete and launched on its maiden voyage. It managed to sail for a little less than one nautical mile and sank in matter of minutes. The loss of the Vasa was a blow to both the prestige of Sweden and its economy.
It was salvaged 300 years later in 1961.More than 95 percent of the ship is original thanks to the quality of water in Stockholm which did not allow deterioration and the ship was preserved.The Vasa is the only preserved seventeenth-century ship in the world and a unique art treasure.It is decorated with hundreds of carved sculptures. 
For nearly half a century the ship has been painstakingly restored. The three masts on the roof outside the specially built museum show the height of the ship's original masts.
We spent a long time here immersed in 17th century maritime Sweden and also watching a short movie describing the events of that time.It was a great experience!


Walked to Skansen museum.It is vintage Sweden. 
←This is just at the entrance to the Skansen. It is the world’s oldest open-air museum, showcasing the whole of Sweden with houses and farmsteads literally transported from every part of the country.All of the buildings are open to visitors and show the full range of Swedish life from the Manor house to  farmhouses of a bygone era.Craftsmen in traditional dress such as tanners, shoemakers, silversmiths, bakers and glass-blowers demonstrate their skills in period surroundings.
After a pizza outside Skansen took a bus to Stockholm central station.
By metro and then a bus we reached Drottningholm Palace where the Royals reside. 
Drottningholm Palace is Sweden's best-preserved royal palace constructed in the seventeenth century, the permanent residence of the royal family and one of Stockholm's three World Heritage Sites.Many royal personages have left their mark on the palace.Swedish monarchs back then were highly networked by marriage.Their blue blooded cousins were Catherine the great of Russia to Louis XVI of France.

The palace features magnificent salons from the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, a beautiful park, a unique palace theater and a Chinese Pavilion.The imposing Baroque garden was laid out beginning in 1681.The palace and the park are mostly open to visitors year round.
After spending a leisurely time at Drottingholm, we returned to Stockholm central station.
Law in Sweden: public can access all private land and can pitch their tents on it  for 24 hours.


We rode the Heritage Tram Route 7 which is very useful. It starts from T-Centralen and goes to Djurgården. This is a great line for tourists,since it connects people to the Gröna Lund,Vasa,Nordic Museum, and Abba Museum.

We took the ferry back from Djurgarden to Slussen and returned to our hotel.We could catch the lights of the Grona Lund amusement park located at the edge of Djurgarden.
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Today the weather is grayish and the mercury has dropped as we wait for our pick up to take us on a Viking tour. Here is a summary of information learnt.
Wearing a horned helmet,bearded, grungy,violent beyond reason and successful at suppressing everyone around them....this is the popular image of Vikings..Let's see
Horned helmet is myth created by the media.Imagine a Viking warrior going to war.Is it practical to wear horned helmets? The actual helmet that was discovered looked like this.
Do you think the Vikings cared much for Art and culture? Definitely not one would say.
However between their drinking,raping and plundering they managed to produce these as heads for their long ships.. 

  Could they read or  write?

They could!Let's understand more.
What are Runes.
Runes are the letters in a set of related alphabets 
which were used to write various Germanic languages before the adoption of the Latin alphabet and for specialised purposes thereafter.  
Rune Stone is typically a raised stone with a runic inscription.The tradition began in the 4th century and lasted into the 12th century,but most of the rune stones date from the late Viking Age. Say 11th century.
On our tour we went to Taby,home to an ancient Viking causeway known as the Jarlabankers brow and
also strolled along the circles of ancient stones.
Jarlabankers bro




Were the vikings giants in stature? No...infact they were a bit smaller than the average physique prevailing among the Baltic nations today.They were not grungy or smelly as it is made out to be.Upon return from voyages they would wash themselves well and wear reasonably fashionable clothes made of wool and animal skins.Women wore long dresses with pinafore on top.
Viking long boat/ships were the reason for their success in warfare
The longships were graceful,long,wide and designed for speed.The ship's shallow draft allowed navigation in waters only one meter deep,while its light weight enabled it to be carried over land or used bottom-up for shelter in camps. Longships were also double-ended, the symmetrical bow and stern allowing the ship to reverse direction quickly without a turn around; this trait proved
Replica of Longship
particularly useful at northern latitudes,where sea ice posed hazards to navigation.They had oars along almost the entire length of the boat itself. Later versions had a rectangular sail on a single mast and the maximum speed of a longship under favourable conditions was around 15 knots (28 km/h).

The ships were large enough to carry cargo and passengers on long ocean voyages, but still maintained speed and agility,making the longship a versatile warship and cargo carrier.
Viking Parliament: Even with the lack of written law, there was a system of government.Their free men would gather within their communities to create new laws and decide cases and punishments if applicable.These meetings were called a ‘Thing,’ and each Viking community had its own Thing.

Viking death: Cremation on pyre was particularly common among the earliest Vikings,who were fiercely pagan and believed the fire's smoke would help carry the deceased to their afterlife.We saw burial mounds on our trip.


After a pleasant. 6 Hr trip with our guide/driver we were taken to a farm house where we enjoyed Swedish Fika and coffee.

Fika (pronounced fee-ka) is a Swedish custom,a kind of social coffee break where people gather to have a cup of coffee or tea and a few nibbles. Fika is such an important part of life in Sweden that it is both a verb and a noun. Do you Fika. Having accompanying treats is an important part of Fika. Breads, croissant, muffins, cookies, cake — any of these treats are appropriate Fika fare. You can also indulge in the savory side,with slices of cold meats, hard boiled eggs or a small sandwich.
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Our last day in the Swedish Capital.Another great day for travel.

We take a ferry to Fjaderholmarna ( real tongue twister ..this) island,about 40 minutes ride from Slussen wharf nearby.

The Fjäderholmarna are a group of small islands in the Stockholm archipelago.                       

Once we arrived, we were surprised at how little was on the island. And then we noticed families enjoying time together doing very little...  hanging out in hammocks,looking out at the water, and just having fun being together. It also has a very interesting array of boats made with Viking skills, and a few shops and places to dine and drink.The glass blower was fun to watch.Then we had a leisurely stroll around the island and sat for a while at the water front watching ducks. it was worth the trip.And the boat ride was fun too. So many beautiful views of Stockholm.Our final views to be cherished!
Evening we took the Norwegian Air flight to Bergen,Norway.Looking out of the window i could see the Fjords in the failing light and took some pictures.


After the flight of 90 minutes we landed at Bergen airport.Mind you it had taken only 90 minutes to fly from the eastern end of Sweden to the western end of Norway.How small or big are these countries?
We walked across to the light rail station at the airport and traveled to Florida station in downtown Bergen.By now it was fairly late in the evening and we got lost trying to trace the address of the Air BnB where we are to stay.We called Gurtej (Owner Indian settled in Norway) and he was kind to come to our help and escort us to his flat. It was time to go to sleep after settling in..
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Bergen:Took a walk to  city central in about 30 minutes from the Apartment.Met a Canadian girl who was walking to the Univ and joined her and walked all the way.She is pursuing a Doctorate in Psychology.Weather was a cool 20C,gentle breeze and very comfortable. 
Took a funicular ride to the top of the mountain Floyen, which gave magnificent views of the city.The harbour was resplendent with the buildings and boats down there.

We saw statues of Trolls and were reminded of Aryaan and his famous Troll and the Goats story some years ago. 











Walking down the mountain we saw this serene lake amidst the woodlands and spent a while here.
We walked down the mountain to the town of Bryggen.
Bryggen is one of Bergen/ Norway's main attractions. It was built after the great fire in 1702 and is included on UNESCO's World Heritage List.The characteristic parallel rows of buildings, with their seaward facing gables represent a building tradition dating back to almost 900 years.These old buildings are on UNESCO World heritage.





The town was very busy with holiday makers and locals and luckily we found a table at a busy restaurant on a side street  for some lunch.The rest and food was welcome and then walked to the wharf which was cooler in the midday Sun.From there we went to the famous fish market which was a picturesque and lively spot.Here you can not only buy fish but also fruit,vegetables handicrafts and souvenirs.

Spent a while at the city park.The park is located smack in the centre of Bergen,is very pleasant with lots of trees and flowers.And of course all kinds of weird sculptures,statues and cool stuff.
At the railway station and collected our tickets for the "Norway in a Nutshell trip" and returned to Air BnB by light rail as we have an early start in the morning.
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We travel from Bergen and will ultimately reach Oslo late in the evening.
Today the weather is overcast,a bit of drizzle making it quite cold at 17C as we board our train for the first leg of our self guided trip.We shall be taking a cruise in NaeroyFjord and Aurlandsfjord for which we have to reach Gudvangen.
So what is a  Fjord.
fjord is a long,deep, narrow body of water that reaches far inland.Fjords are often set in a U-shaped valley with steep walls of rock on either side.Fjords are found mainly in Norway, Chile, New Zealand, Canada, Greenland, and the U.S. state of Alaska.
At Bergen we took the rail and traveled to Voss on a scenic journey.Waterfalls and hills abound peppered with cottages and churches in the country side.We reached our destination in less than 90 minutes and made a bee line to the waiting buses.An hour's ride on the bus going down the steep hair-pinned roads with mountains looming in front of us was a great experience.
At Gudvangen folks from 6 buses converged and we entered the waiting Lustrafjord cruise ship which will give us a memorable time for the next 2 Hrs.

The narrow and spectacular Nærøyfjord is surrounded by steep mountains with snow covered tops that stretch upto 1800 meters above sea level.Water falls cascade down the mountains and picturesque villages dot the landscape.The trip between Gudvangen and Flam  is considered one of the world's most beautiful fjord landscapes and is featured on the UNESCO world heritage list.The 18 KM long fjord is only 250 metres wide in some parts.
The feeling was spectacular to say the least and our cameras and phones were trained on all that we were passing by.Traveling at very slow speeds we would pass other ships and speed boats.Time stopped in the midst of high mountains and narrow waterways with the canopy of clouds hanging in there and only the rhythmical sound of the ship's engine reminded of reality.Cold winds stabbed us constantly and we would take refuge in the heated cabins only to come out quickly to be in the thick of action.It reminded us of how the Norwegian seafarers and Vikings would have felt on choppy seas centuries ago without the comfort of the heated cabins..
We then turn back to go into Aurlandsfjord which affords picturesque views and  continue our wondrous journey until Flam. The small village of Flam is nestled in the innermost part of  Aurlandsfjord where our cruise ended.
I have put together a short video to share our experience that will urge you to undertake the cruise. 


We had a two hour break in Flam to walk around enjoying the village scenery.
Over the course of the next hour, the Flam Rly takes us from sea level at the Sognefjord in Flam to the Myrdal mountain station,situated at 867 metres  above sea level.This is one of the steepest standard gauge railway lines in the world.The train runs through spectacular scenery along steep mountainsides, foaming waterfalls and through 20 tunnels.
One of the best photo opportunities of this journey is a stop at the Kjosfossen waterfall.Here,as passengers disembark on the viewing platform for a short break,a mysterious woman with long hair and a red dress emerges from the forest, dancing to a Norwegian folk song.It was fantastic!
She is the Huldra,an elusive forest spirit from Norse mythology. According to local folklore, she lures men into the woods to seduce them. Watch out, guys!

It is almost 6 pm in the evening at Myrdal and we have a 41/2 hour journey ahead of us to reach Oslo at the other end of the country.
Precisely at 2230 we arrived and took a Taxi to hotel Cochs Pensjonat, from the Rly station in Oslo. Taxi cost DKR 290 (Rs.3000),rather expensive,for a ride of 20 minutes.But it was getting on to 11 at night in a new city.
What an exciting day!

I move on to Oslo and Copenhagen in Part 2 of this Blog.

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