Jordan

Jordan,the Arab country to the east of Israel is a land steeped in history.It has been home to some of mankind's earliest settlements and villages and relics of many of the world's great civilizations can still be seen today.

We were delayed in crossing the border at  Jordan river terminal, both at Israeli security and Jordan immigration and lost the opportunity to see the castle of Ajloun which was on the activity list.

Our group of 40 eventually settled down for the coach drive through the dry and arid land of Jordan dotted with olive and date trees.A hour later we parked at Artemis Restaurant with a good view of the valley.There were seats for 200 or more here apparently catering to tourists on their way to Jerash nearby.Decent buffet was served with tandoori rotis etc and one could see Jordanian hospitality in action.

Jerash is the site of the ruins of a Greco-Roman city. Ancient Greek inscriptions indicate that the city was founded by Alexander the Great who allegedly settled his aged Macedonian soldiers here sometime in 331 BC,when he left Egypt and crossed Syria en route to Mesopotamia.

Arch of Hadrian

In AD 106,Jerash was absorbed into the Roman province of Arabia,which included the city of modern day Amman.The Romans ensured security and peace in this area,which enabled its people to devote their efforts and time to economic development and encouraged civic building activity.The arch of Hadrian was erected in 129-130 AD to commemorate the imperial visit.
Jerash is considered one of the largest and most well-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside Italy and is sometimes referred to as the Pompeii of the Middle East.

We ambled through the colonnaded streets,the magnificent theater,The Oval Forum,Hippodrome,baths and other ruins.

← Forum

Colonnaded Street

Theater facade

After 2 hours here we continued our onward journey towards Amman and there we were treated to the famous sweet dish Kanafeh which is  a slightly crunchy cheese pastry and very popular all over the Levant.
As we left Amman and got on the highway and heading south to the desert...the coach broke down!
We had a 2 Hr wait on the road and by the time we hit the Bedouin camp it was close to midnight and the winds were howling in the desert.The sky was brilliant with stars but we hardly had an appetite for star gazing or for the sumptuous dinner that was laid out.

Rocky hills of Petra at dawn

Our camp in the valley

Bedouin camp near Petra was our abode for the cold night. Luckily we had comforters to see us through and woke up quite early,in time for a hearty breakfast and to start our day touring the "rose-red" city.                                                                                       

Ruins of Petra from a look out point

A Bedouin

PETRA  - An Incredible Historic World wonder!  
     
Capital of the Nabataean empire, Petra was a prosperous kingdom in the first centuries BC and AD.The Nabataeans were masters of irrigation,a skill that came in handy in such an arid environment.This was a very modern civilization with brilliant engineers and craftsmen.Petra was later annexed to the Roman empire and flourished as a major trading route connecting Mesopotamia and Egypt until an earthquake destroyed much of the city in the 4th century AD.Petra remained largely deserted except for the local Bedouins.

In 1812 it was rediscovered by a Swiss explorer and ever since it has been visited by millions of tourists. You will understand why by looking at the following photos.

But first,a tribute ---

                     They seem no work of Man’s creative hand;

Where Labor wrought as wayward Fancy planned;

But from the rock as if by magic grown,

Eternal—silent—beautiful—alone!

Not virgin-white—like that old Doric shrine

Where once Athena held her rites divine;

Not saintly grey—like many a minster fane

That crowns the hill,or sanctifies the plain:

But rosy-red,—as if the blush of dawn,

Which first beheld them were not yet withdrawn:

The hues of youth upon a brow of woe,

Which Man call’d old two thousand years ago!

Match me such marvel,save in Eastern clime,—

A rose-red city—’half as old as time!’ 

John William Burgon

Our guide leads us from the crowded parking lot through Visitor centre and Security and we were on our way.

We saw Bedouins with horses for rides.Also horse driven carriages were in use by the elderly to cover the distance of a Km to the entrance.

We came across the Obelisk Tomb carved in 1st century AD.Above the tomb are 4 pyramids → symbolizing people buried here.

Below is the Triclinium, the banquet hall.   

As we  meandered along the dusty and narrow Siq (the lane/gorge leading to the city) we saw the remnants of the ancient water delivery system.The Siq at it’s widest is ~5 meters but reaches hundreds of meters upwards.It resulted from a natural split of the mountain.See it to believe it!! Gigantic!!!

Then we saw this father and daughter duo creating music under the eave of a huge boulder.

      

We zigzagged for half hour and suddenly the Siq opened up to a huge clearing and we had arrived at the city entrance.Lots of tourists are gathered here and lots of Camels and vendors too! This is why.                                             

What a great way to build up the suspense,walking the distance in an impressive gorge,until you are face to face with the Treasury!What a sight to behold!It was an incredible feeling to stand there and take in the magnificent creation from every angle.To have the Treasury revealed in such a spectacular fashion.Those Nabataeans had a bit of flair for the dramatic.Probably constructed in 1st century BC,the edifice is intricately carved and chiseled to perfection from a sandstone rock face and stands 40 meters high. 

Unfortunately,we could not go inside,like Harrison Ford did in Indiana Jones. Tourists are to blame for this ban since they were found screaming inside and the noise was destroying the structure.

Petra’s ruins are among the world’s most renowned archaeological sites.It is a testament to the ingenuity of the Nabataean people, who were able to construct towering structures half-built and half-carved into the rock.

Other ruins of distinction here are as follows.

←Street of Facades are monumental tombs carved in the cliff face that lies past the treasury.  Theatre→
Numerous rows of seating carved into the rock!!and with a capacity  for 4000.

←The Great Temple;a great architectural monument covering an area of 7000 sq.m and inlaid with elaborate floral friezes.And the large  Monastery which was used for religious meetings and later converted to a Chapel.↑
We returned to the coach after an incredible tour of Petra spending close to 6 hours.  

Today, Petra is Jordan’s most popular travel and tourist destination and for good reason.There is an experience of a lifetime here and photos just can’t capture the feeling of standing among such incredible ruins.If you are a fan of history and love to travel,then Petra just has to be on your list of must see places.

After a long coach journey and stops for late lunch and some Curio shopping we crossed the border and returned to Jerusalem.
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