Maui,Hawaii

For two decades, Conde Nast Traveler readers have voted Maui – the Valley Isle – as the Best Island in the World. Their reasons are found everywhere: on ancient volcanic slopes, in the valleys that gave Maui its nickname, along miles of scenic shoreline, and in its azure coastal waters.It is the second largest of the five islands that make up Hawaii.With its rugged landscape of cliffs,volcanoes, waterfalls, tropical foliage and beaches with gold, red, black and even green sands it is a perfect vacation spot for those longing for the beach,surfing, paddling,cycling,rock climbing et al.
On a cool morning we boarded the flight from SFO and flew 4.5 Hrs on the Pacific to reach our destination some 2000 miles away.ALOHA said the lady welcoming us into the car rental at  Kahului airport where a long line had gathered.Not long after we were on our way with tummy pangs pushing us to reach the " Coconut's Fish Cafe " and enjoy some great sea food.

Every bit of the food was delicious and we promised to come back for more.
Ready to commence journey to our Wailea Condo some 20 miles away,we picked up provisions and were on our way.
RCI,was  kind to us.Our Condo was a massive 2 bedroom affair with every amenity and comfort thrown in.We had a picture postcard view of the sea from our LR.

A while later we were at the nearest beach testing  the waters of the Pacific and playing in the surf.We relaxed on a grassy knoll abutting the beach sands and sipping "Skinny Jeans" India Pale ale brewed in Waikiki,as the Sun descended leaving the clouds behind bathed in fiery orange.We had plenty of company as many tourists had taken vantage positions to see this spectacle.Here are a few pictures. 

Dinner was next on the agenda and we drove to Paia a one horse town 30 min to the North of our Condo. If you want truly Maui specific food choice Paia fish market is where you should go.It is a name of the most famous eatery which specialises in....? Fish.Place is crowded and you share the table with others..but all for a cause.Great food!After a decent wait we got Sashimi,Tuna on Cabbage and a fish plate with coleslaw and a fish hamburger.It was nice to enjoy and share the food in the relaxed atmosphere.For Desert we had ice-cream at home.

Day 2
To find excellent views of Maui's beautiful coastline all you have to do is  drive,stop,park and explore.

After a good breakfast we were out early.Reached Paia town in the north which is the starting point of the scenic highway to Hana which is the eastern tip of the island.
Paia which was once humming with sugar plantation workers has now become a laid back town with local businesses,shops and restaurants nestled along Maui's best beaches still surrounded by sugar cane plantation.From Paia the road to Hana is a scenic H'way that twists through lush rain forest and cascading waterfalls that line the shore.First stop was Ho'okipa lookout.This lookout is on the edge of a grassy cliff overlooking the popular surfing end of the Ho'okipa beach.We were in awe watching all the surfers tackle huge waves.The famous green turtles could be seen here at the beach level.

 

We drove on and stopped to trek a bit towards the Twin falls crossing a lush bamboo growth.However,before long we were advised that the pathway was closed and we retreated.Found this exhibit of surf boards by the side of the road.

 

After a good hour of non stop driving we reached the half way point and stopped as the board advertised original banana bread.The shop keeper lady was baking fresh ones and we had a go.It was good to eat and the break allowed the driver some relief after non stop driving on the twisty road.We passed this waterfall  just beside one of the many one lane bridges and a great stop.Easy to see from the road but we made the short hike and stopped for pic like this one here.It is in Puaa Kaa State wayside Park which consists of a large rain forest with water falls and pools.
Then came the show stopper of the day.
Waianapanapa (Glistening water) State Park and its black sand beach...  a mesmerizing stop along the Highway.
Some funda..A fascinating thing happens when hot lava is cooled quickly by the sea—the basaltic rock shatters and creates black sand.This is how the black-sand beaches in Hawaii are created,including this black-sand beach,made hundreds of years ago when Maui’s large volcano,Haleakala,last sent lava flowing.Heavy rainfall has since turned much of the hardened lava on the coast into dense foliage,and now the beach’s bright green shrubs set against the dark-black sand and deep-turquoise sea produce a landscape that dazzles visitors every day.(See the photo at the top of this blog)


 

A gorgeous lava tube publicly accessible and  impressive in its antiquity and beauty opens up to the ocean and makes for stunning photo-op.

Hana town is not far now and we made it in the next half hour.It is in the eastern extremity of the island and we have traveled 63 miles from our condo in Wailea in the west. Hana was sleepy and quiet at this hour as we scouted for a place to eat.This is what we shared ...the 4 of us.Fish and Chicken with salad and rice.
James Michener, called Hamoa beach the most beautiful beach in the Pacific and so we had to see it.This crescent shaped beach is rimmed by cliffs,covered by coconut palm trees that gives it shade and beautiful flowering vegetation.It has a mixture of coral and lava sand.
We spent a quick 20 minutes and got out.

 



Our last top for the day was the the Haleakala National park to see the waterfalls and the sacred pool.An entry fee of $25 was charged with a validity of 3 days which meant that we could use the ticket tomorrow for visiting another park.

The sacred pools better known as Ohe'o gulch is an idyllic valley cut deeply over countless millennia by a rain forest stream punctuated regularly along its course by cascading waterfalls and plunge pools until it empties into the Ocean along the rugged Kipahulu coastline.

The Park had great facilities complete with a Ranger station displaying useful info,campground,large paved parking lots and washrooms.For those interested in Rain forest treks there is Pipiwai Trail,a treasure of the National Park System that passes through diverse scenery and culminates at the base of an absolutely spectacular waterfall.It is~2 miles long.We only had a short trek towards the ocean past the Banyan tree and spent time looking at the cascading waterfalls,pools and the waves crashing against the rocks.Great sight.

For return we did not back track but went due west back towards Kahului in the north from where we would return to Wailea our starting point.The road was rough for the first hour but after that we had a beautifully paved road with gorgeous views of the landscape bordering the ocean. We were lucky to see another rainbow,our second for the day. Unfortunately we had a tyre blow out as dusk was gathering but a lady from a nearby Ranch came to our help and we reached Kahului for vehicle replacement.Later we celebrated with another  sumptuous fish dinner and headed home after a great day of outing!

Day3
Today we are setting out to see the Haleakala crater or the Park Summit area which is a 2 hour drive.Vehicles are allowed to enter the Summit District from 3:00 am to 7:00 am to view the sunrise. The one-day $1.50 sunrise reservation can be made up to 60 days in advance.Since we did not make the advance booking we did not aim for the sunrise and began our drive at 8AM 

 Geologically Speaking...

The summit area is actually not a typical crater formed by volcanic activity (such as you would see on the Big Island of Hawai’i.) Haleakala Crater was formed over eons as the result of erosion of the entire volcanic mountain top. Over this period of time, smaller lava flows back-filled the eroding valley, building up the floor of what is commonly called the Haleakala Crater. The cinder cones that dot the landscape here are the last of these most recent eruptions.

To reach the Summit we had to ascend 10,023 feet in a mere 38 miles rendering the road to be quite steep.Twenty nine switchbacks comprise the stunning course and we could see vastly diverse eco system that ranged from lush to barren.

At the parking lot...getting out of the car we could feel the cold strong wind and got into our jackets for comfort.A set of steps lead you to the rim at this altitude from where we got the most outstanding out-of-world experience.We are looking at the enormity of the crater with the many hills surrounding it.Rust coloured cinder cones dot the landscape as also the Maui central valley. 

A set of deep Space Observatories could be seen in the vicinity. The entire Crater is 7.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide with a circumference of about 21 miles.Little wonder that it inspired Mark Twain to remark "I felt like the last man,neglected of the judgement,and left pinnacled in mid-heaven,a forgotten relic of a vanished world".

We had a great time in the cold wind swept environs of the crater and were awestruck by the overwhelming nature of the views around.We spent time at the visitor centre indulging the Ranger who satisfied our curiosity by replying to questions.We could even glimpse the form of the Island of Hawaii in the distance.

Kalahaku overlook - We drove down a 1000 Feet and parked here.

The rim overlook, at 9,324 ft., provides not only a simply superb view of the crater floor but also of  the cinder cones clearly visible from this vantage point. There is an observation deck here with plaques that explain the different types of volcanic formations

Haleakala is dormant but dying.No molten lava has issued from 1790.Although it may erupt again the great volcano is nearing the end of a fiery history which began about 800,000 years ago.Erosion,now the dominant force is gradually wearing the aging volcano down.

Coming down from the summit we headed for lunch to Mama's Fish house.A good hour's driving brought us here and we found free valet parking to our delight.This is a fine dining restaurant by the side of the Ocean with its sea food driven Hawaiian menu and Polynesian decor.

A bit of trivia is in order.Celebrities flock to this place while in Maui and the place is booked for many days in advance.We had no booking! Neeharika comes to our rescue.She sweet talks to the receptionist (just the previous day) into believing that a senior couple have come all the way from India to celebrate their WA in Maui and they would be delighted to have lunch here.That did it. We not only got a nice table but a Lei was presented to Vasumathi and I garlanded her.

We enjoyed the cocktails,sea-food and their black pearl desert (chocolate mousse in a pastry sea-shell) and there was never a dull moment in the restaurant and the staff were very cordial.

Later we spent time under the shade of the palm covered beach in the front of the restaurant looking at the sea and surf and taking pics. Also visited the Ocean Overlook point before returning home.The evening was spent watching the sunset from the confines of our condo...and what a 
sunset it was.Here it is in sequence.

Day 4
After a short visit to the nearby beach we packed and checked out having spent 3 memorable days here.We stopped for brunch,returned our car and took the return flight to Sanfrancisco.
'
 Mahalo Maui!

____________________________________________________________

                                                      

Japan Part 3...Hiroshima,Kobe,Osaka

Hiroshima.August 1945.

What is everyone’s first impression of Hiroshima? Atomic Bombs! Nuclear! You’re right… “Will there be no side effects? if I go to Hiroshima” people ask… All because they have seen many many photos and videos of the disaster that struck both Hiroshima and Nagasaki in 1945.And the after effects showing disfigured human bodies of those alive.
Believe me,it is a very safe place to go…But I am getting ahead of myself...

Peace Crane

The Shinkansen took us from Kyoto to Hiroshima in an hour and forty five minutes that Sunday morning.By 10 AM we were walking to the tourist Info booth.We had to reach our hotel and dump our bags first.We knew it was not very far and we were prepared to walk.There was this Info volunteer waiting to help. "Irasshaimase"(Welcome)....she said and began explaining the route but quickly changed her mind and said she will escort us from the station to a bridge some distance away and from where we can navigate safely and reach our hotel. She was even prepared to handle one of the strolleys!Another instance of politeness and service in Japan.She presented us with a couple of Origami "peace cranes".She explained all about transportation in the city to make our day easier.

Hiroshima skyline

It was a pleasant morning and the walk over the bridge was invigorating.At the hotel Reception,the guy hardly understood English but bowing and smiling said "check in..2 pm".Luggage was handed over and we started on our exploration.
We took the red loop bus that runs every 15 minutes from the  station to major tourist spots in the city including Peace Memorial Park,museums and the town centre. Being JR pass holders our ride was free and within 20 min we were at the Memorial park. 
                                                                                     One of the most prominent features of the city is the Peace Memorial Park;the park encompasses more than 120,000 square meters.Before the blast,the area was the political and commercial heart of the city;main reason it was chosen as a target by USA.
A -Bomb Dome: (shown in 1945 above,when it was a product display centre)
This was the only structure left standing in the area where the first atomic bomb exploded on 6 August 1945.Through the efforts of many people,including the military and the citizens of the city,it has been preserved in the same state as immediately after the bombing.Not only is it a stark and powerful symbol of the most destructive force ever created by humankind but also expresses the hope for world peace and the ultimate elimination of all nuclear weapons.I post the pic of the bomb dome as it appears today.There was this Jap guy with a lot of documents,pictures and photos all giving graphic details of the bombing and the after effects.He was explaining to people on a need to know basis.Background info that lead to the bombing etc etc were all spread out for tourists to see and browse through.He refused to be photographed but requested that the "peace message" be passed along in our part of the word.

I asked him whether the Japs hate the Americans for the disaster the bomb wrought on Hiro and Naga.He replied in English"The Japanese don't "hate" the USA in the way you'd think.Reason?we want to move past the whole era. Any revisiting of blame and begging of apologies would open a wound that has more or less healed. Blame could even be directed towards Japan for their role in WWII. Japan and her people rightly know that it's best to accept that the whole Pacific War as a horrible experience and the best medicine is to learn its lesson,become peaceful and move on" Great wor

The heart of this park is the Cenotaph.Not only is it dedicated to all the victims of the bombing,but an Icon to the hope that Hiroshima will forever stand as a symbol of peace.The stone chamber under the arch contains the register of the deceased and an epitaph:Please rest in peace for we shall not repeat the error.It was a great experience to roam the park that was all concrete rubble and dead bodies in those fateful times.At 8.15 each morning the clock chimes as a reminder for the need to be persistent in our efforts to push the worlds governments for the safe destruction of all nuclear weapons.We walked on and approached the Childrens Peace Monument. Some history.......Sadako Sasaki was only two years old in August 1945 when the first nuclear bomb was dropped on Hiroshima.As a result of exposure she contracted leukemia and died 10 years later.

Through the commitment of her grieving classmates and with support from over 3,000 other schools in Japan and around the world this monument was built in 1958 to mourn all the children who died from the atomic bomb.At the top of the three legged pedestal is the bronze figure of a girl holding a gold origami crane high over her head.At the ground level there are glass cases displaying 1000’s of paper cranes made from schools all around the world.                                             

We heard a bell toll and walked in that direction.Amidst a leafy area inside a shrubbery sits the heavy Peace Bell.It weighs more than a tonne and is set under an unusual dome structure representing the universe.Visitors are invited to ring the bell as part of their own prayer for peace.We had a go and then walked towards the Peace memorial museum,which we did not enter for paucity of time.We saw this engaging sculpture titled "mother and child in the storm" depicting a mother's grief while enduring suffering and then overcoming grief.  

One of the most shocking elements of the atomic bomb in 1945 was how well it was planned.There was a formal process to select which cities would be bombed.H and N were selected over other cities like Yokohama or Kyoto because the former had escaped much of the bombing during the Second World War. Therefore the full effects of the nuclear bomb could be “tested” here.

                                                                                      

After our visit to the Peace Janma Bhumi we returned to the station and had a satisfying lunch from a busy bakery in the station..we were pressed for time and had to catch the metro which in 30 minutes brought us to Miyajimaguchi  station.We walked quickly to the ferry Pier and using our JR Pass boarded  Miyajima ferry for a 10 minute ride to the island.The ride provided a beautiful view of the Miyajima Island island with its hilly backdrop and as we approached we could get front views of the "Great Torii" welcoming us to the Itsukushima shrine.It is a world heritage island and one of the three most scenic spots in all of Japan

We walked along the beach towards the shrine,watching Deers looking for food but not so aggressive as the ones at Nara. The shrine is standing on the sea.Just beautiful views.The stone lanterns and the trees on the way made us stop for a picture.

Ambling along old Machiya street,we got to see the neat row of centuries old stores and latticed town houses (Machiya).

We did not allow ourselves enough time to explore the park,take the cable car or climb the mountains.So,back to the ferry for a ride back to the Pier and the metro to get back ...an evening meal with lots of beer concluded our brief tryst with Hiroshima.We were traveling by Shinkansen towards the city of Kobe the next morning.

Perched on a hillside sloping down to the sea,Kobe is one of Japan's most attractive and cosmopolitan cities.
A bit of history...After a long period of national isolation,Japan opened its doors to the world in 1868 through the port of Kobe.The opening of the Port allowed Kobe to develop into an international port city; many Americans and Europeans came to Kobe,establishing a Foreigners’ Settlement.Through them,western food,clothes,and entertainment found their way into Japan,making Kobe one of the first cities to be introduced to foreign culture.Kobe is also known as the birthplace of jazz and cinema in Japan.Other products developed in Kobe during this time include clothes, furniture, confectioneries and beef,which remain signature goods of Kobe to this day.

Kobe port area and city as seen from city hall

Kobe's relatively small size with just 1.5 million people makes it a pleasure for casual wandering.A day is all that we had allotted and to make best use of the time we opted for a tour around the city on the city loop bus.Purchasing tickets on the bus we traveled around the city and saw major tourist attractions.One loop takes about 65 minutes and we could "Hop On,Hop Off" at any of the stops.There is live commentary in English,Jap and Chinese on board.

We went up the City Hall,30 stories tall,to the free observation area on the 24th floor and enjoyed panoramic views of Kobe,including the Rokko Mountain Range and the port area.Saw these cute Jap dolls on display.Next to the city hall is the famous flower clock of Kobe;the oldest flower clock in Japan.
Its design is changed once a month and is a feast for the eyes.

Motomachi Shopping Street is a 1.2 kilometer-long arcade,which has long been a shopping area ever since Kobe was opened to foreign trade in 1868. As the birthplace of Kobe's sophistication and fashionable atmosphere,all sorts of food,clothing and accessory shops line both sides of the central walkway.  

Kobe's chinatown,Nakinmachi,was first established as an area for settlers in 1868,when the port of Kobe was opened and later developed into Kobe's Chinatown.

While the Old Foreign Settlement that stretches along the port area became the business district of foreigners living in Kobe, the Kitano district became the residential area where foreigners lived.The foreign residents who moved to the area from the late 19th century created a truly unique atmosphere,of which much is still preserved to this day.We cooled off with Beer and snacks and headed back to our hotel taking the next loop bus.

Our last day in Japan...
After a decent breakfast we take the "port liner" (train) to get to Kobe airport.From the Kobe airport we were transferred by a coach to the "ferry terminal"Here we buy our tickets to enjoy a ride on a ferry bound for Osaka Int'l airport also called Kansai I A which is built off-shore on an artificial island created in the Osaka bay!
Our journey takes 30 minutes and we are once again picked up by a coach and safely transported to the terminal building,from whence we flew via HongKong to Mumbai.It was all so easy and comfortable.

A great trip to the land of rising Sun ends.

____________________________________________________________