7/9/16

Italy Part 2 - Naples




"Buona sera signorina buona sera, It's time to say Hello to Napoli ......"

They say, Naples is "Italy in the extreme" — its best ..birthplace of Pizza and Sophia Loren and its worst... home of the Camorra, Naples' "family" of organized crime.

Trivia: Because of poor circumstances prevailing at the turn of the 20th century,many southern Italians,among them Napolitanos, emigrated to USA


Naples ...Day 1


Naples is located 225 Kms south of Rome.It is bustling 

port on the Tyrrhenian sea and more appropriately the bay of 

Naples.From Termini,Rome we traveled by Frecciarossa

high speed train run by Trenitalia.




These trains run on dedicated high speed tracks and as a

result journey times are often twice as fast as other train 

alternatives. This is not Switzerland but the high speed 

trains are invariably more punctual than other classes of 

train.We made the journey in 70 minutes.


Just outside the station was this big Snail and our Hotel was 

at a walking distance.

The hotel Receptionist was very kind and 

made a room available quickly as we had to be ready for the 

Pompeii tour  with pick-up scheduled for 10:30.

It was murky weather when we started out and the gray 

skies did not let up.


We traveled along with our lady guide by minivan for the 40 minute journey  to the ancient city of Pompeii.Being at the southern tip of Napoli it is just 8 Kms from Vesuvio.

Trivia:Europe's only three active volcanoes, the Etna, the Stromboli and the Vesuvius, are all in the south of Italy. Mount Etna also happens to be the world's most active volcano. It has been in quasi uninterrupted eruption for the past 3,500 years, and spewing lava on a daily basis since 1999.
But First....Let's recap what happened to Pompeii

On a summer day in the year 79 AD...Mt.Vesuvius erupted.

The blast sent a plume of ash,pumice and other rocks,and scorching-hot volcanic gases so high into the sky that people could see it for hundreds of miles around.

As it cooled, this tower of debris drifted to earth: first the fine-grained ash, then the lightweight chunks of pumice and other rocks. Most Pompeii-ans had plenty of time to flee.

By the time the Vesuvius eruption sputtered to an end the next morning, a “pyroclastic surge”–a 100 mph flow of super heated poison gas and pulverized rock poured down the side of the Vesuvius and enveloped the city of P. Most who remained were caught unaware and died instantly as the superheated air burned their lungs and contracted their muscles leaving bodies in positions prior to death,to be quickly buried in ash and thus preserved in detail for hundreds of years.The victim below has since been preserved in plaster cast.


About 2,000 people were dead. Some people drifted back to town in search of lost relatives or belongings, but there was not much left to find. 

Pompeii remained mostly untouched until 1748, when a group of explorers looking for ancient artifacts  began to dig. They found that the ashes had acted as a marvelous preservative: Underneath all that dust, Pompeii was almost exactly as it had been 2,000 years before.Its buildings were intact. Everyday objects and household goods littered the streets. Later archaeologists even uncovered jars of preserved fruit and loaves of bread!


Ancient Pompeii remains preserved and the artifacts on display provide a fascinating insight.... The citizens were revealed as sophisticated, cultured people who enjoyed fine art, architecture, and the pleasures of the flesh. They knew how to live joyfully in the present as if every day might be your last.It was advanced and wealthy and used to carry out trade in Wine and agri produce with neighboring Rome.



This is a paved street,sloping towards the sea and provided with blocks to walk across without having to step on the road,which doubled up as drainage and sewage disposal System.The spaces between the blocks let vehicles(Carts) pass along the road.





Pompeii’s ancient Piazza and Forum looking towards temple of Jupiter with Vesuvius looming...

Wandered the site,marveling at the  limestone columns and artifacts still standing or on the ground today.



                                          

This city was the luxury destination for the Roman
elite and many members of the upper classes lived here.

By examining the street Latin graffiti at Pompeii,it is gathered that well-known gladiators and actors frequented the city,and drinking and sex were commonplace and accepted as outlets of entertainment.

Of baths and broth...els

Typically baths were a place of social necessity; they upheld public health and hygiene, they were a place to talk and meet casually with clients or business people, and they allowed fitness and exercise. Bathhouses also had large public latrines, often with marble seats over channels whose continuous flow of water constituted the first “flush toilets.” A shallow water channel in front of the seats was furnished with sponges attached to sticks for patrons to wipe themselves.
Next,we were taken to see the Lupanare



One of the famous brothels in Pompeii was called the Lupanare (Latin for wolf’s den).This was a two-storey building with ten rooms with a stone bed and mattress in each of them. Another famous feature of the Lupanare is its erotic wall paintings as shown above. 


Mosaic flooring of highest quality prevailed at the Villas of the rich.

One such is this.






The locals and visitors frequented a magnificent 5,000-seat theater and a 20,000-capacity amphitheater while enjoying takeaway food and fresh bread.Spiritual life was important too,as the surviving temples dedicated to Isis,Venus,Jupiter and Apollo showed us.


Upon completion of the tour we were escorted back to  
Naples and got off near 
the Railway station 


After partaking  a fine meal
of Bruschetta and Pasta 
along with a jug of house
wine we returned to our
Hotel for some rest.

Trivia:In 1830 the world's first pizzeria, Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba, opened its doors in Naples 



Late afternoon saw us walking along Piazza Garibaldi  and in 20 minutes we reached the Duomo of Naples.


The Duomo is the main church of Naples. A wonderful Gothic cathedral built in the 13th century. It is dedicated to Naples' patron saint, San Gennaro,We took the metro back to Garibaldi Station and walked home after a very good start.



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Naples...Day 2
Sorrento,Positano,Amalfi and Ravello - See Map for clarity


Today we are being exclusively chauffeured and guided by Rossario,a mild mannered and pleasant Neapolitan to towns in and around the Sorrentine peninsula and Amalfi coast.Serene Sorrento,an hour south of Naples' urban intensity,is a great home base and the gateway to the much-drooled-over Amalfi Coast. 

We are on the highway mostly without any idea of what is to come.Some 15 minutes later, Ross stops the car at this scenic look out and here we are with  Sorrento in the background



Sorrento,wedged on a ledge between the mountains and the Naples Bay, is an attractive resort of 20,000 residents and — in  summer — as many tourists.





It is as well located for sight seeing as it is a pleasant place to stroll and shop.Took a 20 min ride in a electric vehicle and saw famous residences and the cathedral.Shopping areas were quaint and everyone speaks fluent English.
We then turned around the Sorrento peninsula for Positano and for the true thrill of Amalfi coast ride.As we drive over the 15 Kms, we gain respect for the Italian engineers who built the road and even more respect for the bus drivers who drive on it. Awesome views capture your attention with the Mediterranean,a sheer 500-foot drop below,twinkling in the sunshine of the day.Cantilevered terraces,hotels,and villas cling to the vertical terrain.Beautiful sandy coves tease from far below and out of reach. 

Positano is a picture - postcard - perfect town where "Rules of Behaviour" are put up as Notice to visitors to maintain the dignity of the city.You are not allowed to consume food and beverage in streets and squares and no walking around in a swimming costume,are just two of them

      
Positano is a cluster of pastel houses attached to the cliffs and surrounded by an intense fragrance of lemon and bright and vivid colors of bougainvillea. A maze of alleys and steps with small shops displaying the typical products of local crafts, together with the undisputed beauty of the landscape, have contributed to make Positano famous. 


    
Lemons Galore!                                   
Attractive Work done on the cliff side 
Rossario is keen to break for lunch and he says that there is a great place to go to,and in about 30 min as we were enjoying the ride he enters the parking area of Hotel La Conca Azzura and takes us inside their famous restaurant jutting out to the sea with a great view!

We had very tasty Mediterranean food ...Gnocchi, Pasta, some wonderful salad and wine.We enjoyed the house wine as much as we enjoyed the view outside...waves breaking against the cliffs,isle of Capri in the distance and of course the boats gently sailing here and there.It was truly memorable and we thanked Ross immensely for providing us the pleasure of dining here.
Trivia: An Italian must have Pasta everyday.Without it his he is not sated
We drive to Amalfi in 10 min and on the way our driver points out Sophia Loren's massive Villa where she used to live with Carlo Ponti at one time
We can see that Amalfi is the most crowded of the coastal towns as expected.We went past coffee and Gelato shops and reached the small Piazza Duomo,the central square and heart of town. A steep staircase leads up to the cathedral of Apostle St.Andrew with a colourful facade with glittering gold mosaics



We refreshed with coffee at the Piazza to come awake after the food and wine and the teasing climate.We crossed the road separating the beach from the Piazza and these are the views

 White houses piled one upon the other,standing on the remains of ancient relics makes it a much sought after resort.Another view below











Ravello,is our next stop,which for many is the jewel in the Amalfi crown.It is situated in a more elevated position than the other pearls. 

Ravello offers the perfect mix of culture — spectacular churches,villas,expansive gardens and music




Note: Ravello,the city of Music

The Ravello Festival is one of the oldest and most renowned festivals in Italy. For many years Richard Wagner was the Festival’s presiding genius, and his music is still at the core of each year’s programme. Musical performances are held on the splendid terrace of Villa Rufolo, on a stage built out over the sea. 

Music lovers quarrel over the legitimacy of open air concerts,with their accompaniment of extraneous sounds and noises.Yet surely the ultimate effect of the spectacle of son et lumière is undeniable,for any imperfection for the ear is more than made up by that which delights the eye. 

As Gore Vidal put it so poetically,“Often,when the orchestra plays Wagner,the full moon rises above the mountains in the east,their profile reminiscent of a dragon’s head reclining gently on the beach, while the birds of Ravello, who after all these years are particularly musical birds, trill their counterpoint from high up in the dark pine trees”.


After a most satisfying day in Rossario's company we returned back to Naples and on the way saw Vesuvius once again,perhaps for the last time.
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Naples...Day 3

Capri

Discovered in 29 BC by Emperor Augustus, the Isle of Capri, was home of emperors,seat of monasteries and a place of exile. Its fortunes changed during the 19th century when English and German expatriates discovered its charms.

Trivia:There is also the famous yester years' "isle of Capri" Tango made popular by Billy Vaughn etc and a song too! "dil dil se milakar dekho,nazaron mein samakar dekho......"

But first... we took a taxi to the Marina and as we had plenty of time before the departure of the Ferry,hopped across the road to view the Castel dell'Ovo (Egg Castle).It is s a fortified castle perched in the Bay of Naples. Built on a small island,it is now connected to the mainland by a causeway.The name comes from the legend that the Roman poet Virgil buried an egg on the site for protection.Now it is a museum of Pre-history....

It was 45 minutes of high-speed ferry ride on a choppy sea that made me wonder why I ate breakfast.But as Capri came into view I forgot the inconvenience and marveled at the sight opening up

Marina Grande was beckoning and its name aptly described the scene.Very soon we were grouped together inside a bus and ascending the island to a central point in Capri.We were briefed and had an hour's free time before re-grouping for lunch.

Instead of just window shopping through the high-price-tag town,we made a bee-line to the chairlift which would take us to Ana Capri in just 12 minutes.We were told that views there were breathtaking. 





As we ascend to Ana Capri,we see,the turquoise blue shoreline... 







....and tucked between the houses,tiny,humble vegetable gardens surrounded by lush foliage... the scent of the lemon groves permeating the air.


We get off the chair-lift at 600M above MSL and get up to a point where we see other tourists all transfixed taking photos.We spent about 20 min here and we must have clicked as many frames of this panorama


 At this altitude the weather was lovely and we could have spent more time and explored the area,but were caught in a group-tour exigency and had to depart from this spot.


An elaborate lunch........
It was partaken in a restaurant in Ana Capri.A typical three course meal was served with Bruschetta for starters ...Beer for me and a soft drink for her.Then she had Gnocchi and I had spanish rice and fish.It was time for a great salad next.
For dolce/digestivo we were offered Limoncello or ice-cream so we preferred the Limoncello served in small cooled ceramic glasses.We liked the liqueur so much that we picked up some as gifts.


Note:natural liqueur with excellent digestive properties, Limoncello di Capri is made by macerating lemon peel taken from lemons grown and picked on the island.It is free of additives and preservatives.




The sea continued to be rough and choppy and so the tour of the famous Blue Grotto was cancelled.Instead we were told not to miss the trip around the island by sea.

We started out on our trip as the weather got worse but we were saved from the rain as we left the marina.Ten minutes into the ride black clouds threatened to spoil the show.But we carried on relentlessly.



We turn the first corner and a bronze statue (green) of a young boy atop the rocks welcomes us... or is it a goodbye?





Then we see the point called ..Tiberius leap . the location from where emperor Tiberius hurled his sexual conquests and victims into the sea.






Grotta Del Corollo





We come to the best sight of all, the Faraglioni rocks,which we had glimpsed from Ana Capri in the morning,They are all in full view and look magnificent. We were steered in and out of the opening with the windblown sea swirling into the Faraglione's underwater hollow,before erupting and showering down onto the rocks and spraying us.



We had our excitement and adrenaline pumping for the last 40 minutes,with a lively commentary in English by the Captain.Now he turns around to show us why we could not be inside the blue grotto today

The sea is rough and the water level high not allowing us to enter this low-ceiling inlet.The experience would have been wonderful,but they say many a day goes without any boat entering this cave.So...

Note: Blue Grotto is a shimmering cave where light enters both from outside and inside through an underwater breach, creating bluish color effects and turning into different colors depending on the time of day and weather conditions

We were back at the starting point and soon transferred to our ferry for the return trip.We said G'Bye to the receding Capri and lay prone in our seats wallowing in memories of the excitement filled day! Oh! What a day!!


Ciao Napoli.......Next Stop Firenze

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