Italy part 5: Milan

In modern times when you think of Milan,it throws up images of,anorexic,high heeled models walking the ramp,in designer outfits.The pulse of the Italian economy is derived from Milan’s heart which houses designer names such as Armani, Gucci, Prada,Versace and Dolce and Gabbana to name a few.It is here in Milan that the fashion conscious wants to shop for Armani jackets and Gucci bags among other acquisitions

And yet the city has plenty to offer to history Buffs.

Read on...

We departed Venice after breakfast,our last journey by Trenitalia on this tour... happy travel experience, and arrive at our hotel around Noon...

Soon we are in the heart of the thriving city..We walk and reach the famous Duomo Piazza in 15 minutes.

A wonderful sunny day it was and the Cathedral was shining in all its glory.The Piazza is large with the Cathedral as its center and the Gallerie Vittora Emanuelle II on one side and smaller shopping and eateries on the other.

A symbol of the city,,the Duomo towers over the Piazza

bursting with Gothic statues,Gargoyles,Pinnacles and soaring spires.No wonder D.H.Lawrence called it "An imitation hedgehog".

There are 3,400 statues,135 gargoyles and 700 figures that decorate Milan Duomo! A special attraction is the roof of the cathedral where no less than 2000 Spires,peaks of figures and ornamentation,are to be seen,each of them a unique piece.As its highest spire is the golden statue of the Virgin Mary, affectionately known as the 'Madonnina,' the protector of Milan.

The youngish Italian waiter serving at the Pizzeria Bar said "Namaste" and we did not look further for our lunch.With an hour or more for the walking tour to commence we sat there with our Pizza and beer and watched the tourists go by,taking pics at the Square from all corners.

The guide said:though the Cathedral was consecrated in early 1400,it remained incomplete ,and work went on for 6 centuries ( with a good push from Napoleon B ) and finally completed only in 1965! Can you believe that!

We go around the cathedral and spot this water spout.which provides potable drinking water. Bottles are filled.There ar e 500 such "dragon" water spouts strewn all over Milan from medieval times and they have not dried up!

Across the street we come to the most famous Gallery of Vittorio Emanuelle II,first king of united Italy..From its triumphal arch entrances two iron and glass covered walkways meet at an octagonal central piazza below a grand glass dome. The high glass vaults,the enchanting mosaics and the famous haute coutre shops and restaurants are enough reason for the tourists to throng the arcade that connects two of Milan's most famous landmarks,The Duomo and the La Scala opera house, 

Most tourists gather under the central dome of the arcade to gaze at this architectural masterpiece. In Milan it is referred to as the "Drawing room" where glitterati meet in restaurants and visit the shops.

Stepping  out of the magnificent arcade we arrive at Piazza della Scala the square in front of the famous La Scala theater.

There is a monument here honoring Leonardo Vinci who for many years lived and worked in Milan.Leonardo is standing on a large pedestal. At the foot  stand his four favorite students. Reliefs depict some of the disciplines that da Vinci mastered: painting, sculpting, engineering and architecture.

Trivia: The Milanese are not fond of this statue and jokingly refer to it as a wine bottle with 4 glasses

La Scala - While the Opera House facade is not that impressive, the luxury interiors are breathtaking as we can see from this picture.From its inauguration in 1778,the opera house’s treasured halls have hosted some of the world’s most inspirational opera,ballet, and classical performances. Seating more than 2,000 people,it has been restored after the WWII bombing and continues to delight its audience. 

We walk walk walk in the main avenue with its attractive tram cars and vehicular traffic.We see this huge red scissors as advertisement for quality shirts and men's wear.We are taken to Piazza Mercanti This picturesque square was the beating heart of commercial and governmental life of the 13th century.Then,It was buzzing with hair cutters,goldsmiths,seamstresses,tailors and bakers all busy with their daily work.We went into the ancient tribunal and meeting place.A feature of the columns here...I stood in the corner of the gallery and whispered, facing the columns and someone standing in the opposite column could hear exactly what I said.It was told that merchants used this intriguing method to exchange business secretly. Was reminded of Mughal palaces. 

We head for a coffee break.Walking towards the famous Castello Forzesco we see the so called "wedding cake" fountain.The bottom tier is missing from this photo

Sforza Castle was  built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza,Duke of Milan and stands as a symbol of the Renaissance age.Originally a fort,was converted into a palatial residence by the Duke with a seventy meter tall central tower - the Torre del Filarete, flanked with large round towers. His successors further improved and embellished the structure. 








Today the impressive structure is home to several museums, including the Egyptian museum and the Museum of Ancient Art, which features Michelangelo’s last (and unfinished) sculpture, Rondanini Pietà.

That was good bit of sight-seeing and were happy with what we had achieved in the half day.
The evening was upon us and we took a bus and returned to our hotel.

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Day 2 -Milan

Our last day in Milan and the two week sojourn of Italy will end today.I really cannot believe we did all that walking on this trip.We will continue to do some more.


Took the bus to Santa Maria delle Grazie,Church of Holy Mary of Grace to see the mural of Leonardo"The last Supper"

Walking towards it we see this Needle and Thread showpiece reminding us yet again Milan's forte  in the world of fashion design.

It also reminded us of the budding Thread Channel App.

Eventually we caught up with our group at the entrance to the Convent which adjoins the church.

"The Last Supper" mural is located in the Refectory or the dining room of the convent and only a group of 15 are allowed for 15 minutes inside at a time.No flash photography and Silence! please 

Note 1: The Last Supper depicts the dramatic moment when Jesus tells the apostles that one of them will betray him soon.And the way the expressions are captured on each of the 12 apostles
Leonardo  worked on this mural from 1492 to 1498 by most accounts.  It was not done with the fresco technique —where water-based paint is applied to fresh plaster — but da Vinci  chose to dry paint on the wall in layers. As a result, the masterpiece began to deteriorate during his lifetime and soon it became clear the technique led to deterioration and crumbling. By mid 1500's art historians considered it a lost cause. In 1726 the mural was completely repainted  and numerous restorations followed, the last of which started in the 1970s and was concluded in 1999.

Note 2:The painting contains several references to the number 3, which represents the Christian belief in the Holy Trinity. The Apostles are seated in groupings of three; there are three windows behind Jesus; and the shape of Jesus' figure resembles a triangle.

             Note: Photographed without flash under low light conditions.                                   

Observe the 3D effect in the background

Opposite Leonardo's masterpiece is a fresco painted by Donato depicting the Crucifixion.  

Both paintings miraculously survived the bombing of WWII which turned the rest of the refectory into ruins,thanks to sandbags that were placed against the walls.Or was it divine intervention?

Having completed our main event we were on the look out for whatever we could do/see to while away our time,as the morning was still young.  

We walked past the Romanesque church of San Ambrogio which dates back to 379AD

Note the two medieval bell towers left and right behind the church, which can be seen from the center of the square 

We popped in and out of a small pretty church  and then walked to reach San Lorenzo Maggiore. The Basilica is one of the oldest churches in Western Europe; its history also goes back to the fourth century,when it was built with material used from existing Roman structures.We filled our water bottle at the dragon fountain and slaked our thirst after the long,albeit leisurely walk of the morning.Spent time cooling our heels  and watching children play and dogs being trained before making our way to the hotel

Enjoyed our last relaxed meal at a cafe in the proximity of the hotel with some white wine 

Pick-up for the Malpensa airport arrived on time and bidding farewell to the Receptionist we drove to catch our flight back to Mumbai in the evening.

A memorable trip! I raise a toast to my wife for the meticulous planning and Swiss holidays,Sanjukta who helped a great deal.I should not forget the advise rendered by Pooja and Bashir

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Italy Part 4 :Venice

Venice...Call it the "Queen of Adriatic" or "floating city" or "city of canals", it has carved a niche among great cities for its sheer loveliness,Carnivale,Music and Masks. 

Venice! Venice! When thy marble walls are level with the waters,
there shall be a cry of nations o'er thy sunken halls, 
a loud lament along the sweeping sea ! 
If I. a northern wanderer, weep for thee

Lord Byron's verse from  "Ode on Venice," captures the sentiment felt by many who have walked the streets and seen the fabled canals of Venice.

We made the trip in 4 hrs instead of 2 as there was a minor train accident on the way and the Italian bureaucracy swallowed 2 Hrs  in sorting out 




We left Mestre,mainland Venice,and entered the lagoon in the Adriatic sea, and via the causeway arrived at the historic city of Venice in the archipelago...15 minutes.

Venice is made up of a collection of  118 islands!


Carrying our luggage we walked to the bridge over the Grand Canal,crossed over and reached our hotel nearby. We took off quickly to explore some part of Venice in the remaining daylight.

We are standing on the Scalzi bridge,spanning the Grand Canal,which we crossed earlier to reach our hotel.Grand Canal divides this city in two and has 4 Bridges over it.
Observe the pic from left to right....wooden stakes to moor Gondolas are seen in many locations.Gondola with a passenger.Public water bus that travels all along the grand canal at a good frequency.Next,many small private water taxis and you can see Vaporetti (water bus/taxi) stops on the far right and back.

In front of Scalzi bridge

Idle walking...following the tourist trail with a map in hand from which you notice the incredible maze of large and small canals.main streets,lanes,Campi ( squares) and churches.
Every 100 meters one finds a church,,,there are more than 200 churches,150 canals and 400 pedestrian foot bridges spanning the canals.There are no roads and cars and there is no limit to drinking...ha..ha
The sides of the arterial roads are lined with traditional shops Bars,Restaurants,Pizzerias etc catering to tourists,while the middle,if the strada is broad enough,is taken by Bangladeshi and African expat vendors selling fruits,curios,bags,shoes et al on carts and makeshift stalls.

This picture taken from a canal over-bridge shows that the building walls are scarred heavily by action of water called Acqua Alta locally.This is what Byron was referring to.More on this follows.

Now,how is Venice built?

All the buildings and structures are standing on wooden platforms which have for foundation wooden stakes (piling)driven into the sandy ground of the lagoon.Why?The land area was not found strong enough.Also as the stakes are submerged under water they are not exposed to oxygen which will attract microorganisms to cause decay.Constant flow of salt water around and through the wood petrifies the wood over time,turning it into a hardened stone-like structure.

Acqua alta is a natural phenomenon that has occurred for centuries when high tides caused by the moon along with a strong warm wind blowing across the Mediterranean forces water from the Adriatic into the Venetian lagoon.This happens from about the middle of October to the beginning of December.

Those who love Venice are,of course,concerned with the damaging effects of this periodic flooding of buildings and monuments.Flooding is especially harmful;if water reaches the porous brick,it rises by capillary action to the higher levels causing erosion of the walls and marble 

We continue our walk and reach campo Santi Apostoli,where there is a famous church and space to relax and have a coffee if you wish.

Here we turn right,cross another bridge and soon are in the proximity of Realto bridge..

For some reason the crowd has increased in density which we soon realise is because we are on the way leading to the famous San Marco Piazza where the Basilica is located.

It is estimated that 75,000 tourists visit Venice in a day!Area of Venice is just 415 Sq.Km (Area of Mumbai controlled by the Municipal Corp is 450 Sq.Km). Population of Venice in 2009 census was 60,000 a great decline over the years.Residents are leaving town and going to mainland,to escape escalating property prices and high maintenance costs.Also small businesses face stiff competition from large Corps.Expats create nuisance by taking tourist trade away from established shops with their cheap,spurious goods.There is a fear that V will become a theme park, read Disneyland,in about 15 years,without any local residents.

Rialto Bridge built 1591is probably

the most visited and most photographed bridge in Venice. For nearly three hundred years,it was the only way to cross the Grand Canal on foot. 

 







It is getting dark at 07:15 PM and we are also hungry.Going back,and before we take the bridge, we see this lovely Gondola up close.

A tradition dating back many centuries,stories of gondolas,romanticism and song are legion.Gondolas are one of the strongest symbols of Venice.and their history is as beautiful as Venice.Being sole medium of transport they were guardians of the secrets of the ladies and Casanovas...in the good old days!

Venice awards only 425 gondolier licences and there are years of apprenticeship and a major exam to pass before a Gondolier is born.Once a way of life in Venice, only 350 gondolas ply today purely for the benefit of tourism.

As we walk looking at eateries we chance upon this beautiful sight,where the setting Sun has caused a riot of colors to play over this biggish canal.

We decide on eating the traditional meal of pasta and pizza and a glass of wine at a small place near the Scalzi bridge and go back

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Day 2  Venice
Walking tour of Venice starts at 08:45.we have to walk first to the meeting point 30 min away.So we are up and ready early,07:30 breakfast and then off we go.Sky is overcast portending rain.


We walk briskly and noticed that the city was just getting ready for the tourist onslaught.Shops were opening,hawkers were arranging their wares,loaders were pushing carts and then we chanced upon  this novelty...garbage clearance via the canal 


Soon,we were at the "meeting point" for our "off the beaten path" walking tour of Venice.A very petite lady addressed our group of 10-12 and said that we should be prepared not to see the main attractions,but experience Venice as a Venetian would.We were all agog with excitement.

On this tour which lasted 21/2 Hrs,we were walked  around churches,canals and old bridges,and places which were not invaded by tourists.She kept us engaged with history and culture of Venice..She answered our many questions and gave us a  free map of Venice,which was very informative.What follows is a picture tour..  

This lion,a symbol of Venice is everywhere,gazing down from buildings and monuments and on its own pedestal at large Piazzas.

Campo of the Abbey is a truly beautiful square which is relatively unfrequented by Venetian standards.The square maintains its original brick paving and has the Church of the Abbey flanked by the old school of mercy on the right

Two beautiful old style pedestrian bridges  that we saw in the interior of Venice.Here again there were no tourists to distract us from enjoying the setting.

Statue of the Venetian merchant Sior Antonio Rioba graces the corner of Ponte dei Mori.The story is that he and his two brothers were cursed and turned to stone as a punishment for their greed. It is possible the statues are from the 13th century,but Rioba’s metal nose was fixed in the 1800s.This statue is a darling of the locals and it is considered good luck to touch its nose.

A couple of enchanting church facades fell our way.

                               

Finally,the Jewish Ghetto...an area were Jews lived,money lenders and traders to the Venetian society at large between 16-18th century. Segregation and safety came from the heavy gates that were installed and manned and no access was allowed at nights.Because of lack of space 7 storey buildings were constructed and the top story was a Synagogue.Made famous by Shakespeare's Merchant of Venice,it is a pleasant and quiet neighborhood.At this point our tour was declared over.

We slowly inched our way towards San Marco square in the swelling crowd and drops of rain under an overcast sky.The Square was large and the Basilica was magnificent in an architectural flurry of many styles indicative of the wealth of Venice in the centuries gone by.  

We lolled about the square,taking pictures of buildings around us and in the distance,across the water,,the church San Giorgio Maggiore...beautiful!

The afternoon's itinerary gave very little time to enjoy a regular lunch.It was coffee and pastry at a Cafe near San Marco and as we went looking for the meeting point we saw the "bridge of Sighs", a small bridge located between the Doge's Palace and the Prison. Prisoners when escorted from the Palace to their gallows would be given a last chance to look at their city through the window and SIGH!

Excursion to the islands Murano,Burano and Torcello follows;
We set off at the lagoon for our excursion.As the boat sped...on the open deck the head winds cut into us and we wrapped ourselves and held on to our caps ..we passed the island of San Giorgio Maggiore and sailed along the beach resort of Lido till we reached Murano known the world over for its exquisite glass.We were taken to a workshop and saw the artisan turning out a glass horse in 15 minutes from raw stock.We browsed through the souvenir shop and saw amazing workmanship on glass 

    








Burano is the next island on the tour and is only a short distance away.It is known for its traditional lace making and the colourful fishermen houses.

And then Torcello...

Founded in the 5th century,Torcello is even older than Venice and was a very important island in ancient times,having a population possibly around 20,000.Today it has only 17 residents.People visit Torcello to see the Byzantine mosaics in the 7th century cathedral.That was not a part of our itinerary. We had to make do with the church next to it.

An open air  museum houses medieval artifacts,mostly from the island,and archaeological finds from the paleolithic to Roman period found in the area of Venice.Interesting!

Cathedral mosaic

                                                                                                                                          We returned from the trip,had a grand dinner with Vino and made it back to the hotel drenched in the heavy rain that suddenly poured. 

Note:

Venice was the center of the musical universe during Carnivale, the congregation of masked people. Composers, musicians and mask makers would prepare all year for the orgy of productions that came to Venice during this time.Masks were permitted to be worn in public,European Princes and dignitaries arrived from everywhere to enjoy the wild festivities,and Venice was THE PLACE to be.Imagine Louis XIV getting up on stage to prance while the orchestra freaks out.Nobility mixed with commoners under the guise of the mask and all was fair and square during the Carnivale which went on from end Dec to the beginning of Lent.

Opera was an Italian invention for combining Greek tragedies with music, theater and spectacle.It broke out of private royal courts and became a public event in early 1600's.

We now move on to Milan
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