8/13/16

Italy part 5: Milan



In modern times when you think of Milan,it throws up images of,anorexic,high heeled models walking the ramp,in designer outfits.The pulse of the Italian economy is derived from Milan’s heart which houses designer names such as Armani, Gucci, Prada,Versace and Dolce and Gabbana to name a few.It is here in Milan that the fashion conscious wants to shop for Armani jackets and Gucci bags among other acquisitions

And yet the city has plenty to offer to history Buffs.

Read on...
We departed Venice after breakfast,our last journey by Trenitalia on this tour... happy travel experience, and arrive at our hotel around Noon...
Soon we are in the heart of the thriving city..We walk and reach the famous Duomo Piazza in 15 minutes.

A wonderful sunny day it was and the Cathedral was shining in all its glory.The Piazza is large with the Cathedral as its center and the Gallerie Vittora Emanuelle II on one side and smaller shopping and eateries on the other.





A symbol of the city,,the Duomo towers over the Piazza
bursting with Gothic statues,Gargoyles,Pinnacles and soaring spires.No wonder D.H.Lawrence called it "An imitation hedgehog".
There are 3,400 statues,135 gargoyles and 700 figures that decorate Milan Duomo! A special attraction is the roof of the cathedral where no less than 2000 Spires,peaks of figures and ornamentation,are to be seen,each of them a unique piece.As its highest spire is the golden statue of the Virgin Mary, affectionately known as the 'Madonnina,' the protector of Milan.

The youngish Italian waiter serving at the Pizzeria Bar said "Namaste" and we did not look further for our lunch.With an hour or more for the walking tour to commence we sat there with our Pizza and beer and watched the tourists go by,taking pics at the Square from all corners.


The guide said:though the Cathedral was consecrated in early 1400,it remained incomplete ,and work went on for 6 centuries ( with a good push from Napoleon B ) and finally completed only in 1965! Can you believe that!
We go around the cathedral and spot this water spout.which provides potable drinking water. Bottles are filled.There ar e 500 such "dragon" water spouts strewn all over Milan from medieval times and they have not dried up!





Across the street we come to the most famous Gallery of Vittorio Emanuelle II,first king of united Italy..From its triumphal arch entrances two iron and glass covered walkways meet at an octagonal central piazza below a grand glass dome. The high glass vaults,the enchanting mosaics and the famous haute coutre shops and restaurants are enough reason for the tourists to throng the arcade that connects two of Milan's most famous landmarks,The Duomo and the La Scala opera house






Most tourists gather under the central dome of the arcade to gaze at this architectural masterpiece. In Milan it is referred to as the "Drawing room" where glitterati meet in restaurants and visit the shops.
















Stepping  out of the magnificent arcade we arrive at Piazza della Scala the square in front of the famous La Scala theater.


There is a monument here honoring Leonardo Vinci who for many years lived and worked in Milan.Leonardo is standing on a large pedestal. At the foot  stand his four favorite students. Reliefs depict some of the disciplines that da Vinci mastered: painting, sculpting, engineering and architecture.


Trivia: The Milanese are not fond of this statue and jokingly refer to it as a wine bottle with 4 glasses

La Scala - While the Opera House facade is not that impressive, the luxury interiors are breathtaking as we can see from this picture.From its inauguration in 1778,the opera house’s treasured halls have hosted some of the world’s most inspirational opera,ballet, and classical performances. Seating more than 2,000 people,it has been restored after the WWII bombing and continues to delight its audience. 



We walk walk walk in the main avenue with its attractive tram cars and vehicular traffic.We see this huge red scissors as advertisement for quality shirts and men's wear.We are taken to Piazza Mercanti This picturesque square was the beating heart of commercial and governmental life of the 13th century.Then,It was buzzing with hair cutters,goldsmiths,seamstresses,tailors and bakers all busy with their daily work.We went into the ancient tribunal and meeting place.A feature of the columns here...I stood in the corner of the gallery and whispered, facing the columns and someone standing in the opposite column could hear exactly what I said.It was told that merchants used this intriguing method to exchange business secretly. Was reminded of Mughal palaces. 

We head for a coffee break.Walking towards the famous Castello Forzesco we see the so called "wedding cake" fountain.The bottom tier is missing from this photo


Sforza Castle was  built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza,Duke of Milan and stands as a symbol of the Renaissance age.Originally a fort,was converted into a palatial residence by the Duke with a seventy meter tall central tower - the Torre del Filarete, flanked with large round towers. His successors further improved and embellished the structure. 








Today the impressive structure is home to several museums, including the Egyptian museum and the Museum of Ancient Art, which features Michelangelo’s last (and unfinished) sculpture, Rondanini Pietà.




That was good bit of sight-seeing and were happy with what we had achieved in the half day.
The evening was upon us and we took a bus and returned to our hotel.

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Day 2 -Milan

Our last day in Milan and the two week sojourn of Italy will end today.I really cannot believe we did all that walking on this trip.We will continue to do some more.


Took the bus to Santa Maria delle Grazie,Church of Holy Mary of Grace to see the mural of Leonardo"The last Supper"

Walking towards it we see this Needle and Thread showpiece reminding us yet again Milan's forte  in the world of fashion design.
It also reminded us of the budding Thread Channel App.

Eventually we caught up with our group at the entrance to the Convent which adjoins the church.




"The Last Supper" mural is located in the Refectory or the dining room of the convent and only a group of 15 are allowed for 15 minutes inside at a time.No flash photography and Silence! please 

Note 1: The Last Supper depicts the dramatic moment when Jesus tells the apostles that one of them will betray him soon.And the way the expressions are captured on each of the 12 apostles
Leonardo  worked on this mural from 1492 to 1498 by most accounts.  It was not done with the fresco technique —where water-based paint is applied to fresh plaster — but da Vinci  chose to dry paint on the wall in layers. As a result, the masterpiece began to deteriorate during his lifetime and soon it became clear the technique led to deterioration and crumbling. By mid 1500's art historians considered it a lost cause. In 1726 the mural was completely repainted  and numerous restorations followed, the last of which started in the 1970s and was concluded in 1999.

Note 2:The painting contains several references to the number 3, which represents the Christian belief in the Holy Trinity. The Apostles are seated in groupings of three; there are three windows behind Jesus; and the shape of Jesus' figure resembles a triangle.


             Note: Photographed without flash under low light conditions.                                   
Observe the 3D effect in the background

Opposite Leonardo's masterpiece is a fresco painted by Donato depicting the Crucifixion.  



Both paintings miraculously survived the bombing of WWII which turned the rest of the refectory into ruins,thanks to sandbags that were placed against the walls.Or was it divine intervention?

Having completed our main event we were on the look out for whatever we could do/see to while away our time,as the morning was still young.  


We walked past the Romanesque church of San Ambrogio which dates back to 379AD

Note the two medieval bell towers left and right behind the church, which can be seen from the center of the square 






We popped in and out of a small pretty church  and then walked to reach San Lorenzo MaggioreThe Basilica is one of the oldest churches in Western Europe; its history also goes back to the fourth century,when it was built with material used from existing Roman structures.We filled our water bottle at the dragon fountain and slaked our thirst after the long,albeit leisurely walk of the morning.Spent time cooling our heels  and watching children play and dogs being trained before making our way to the hotel

Enjoyed our last relaxed meal at a cafe in the proximity of the hotel with some white wine 

Pick-up for the Malpensa airport arrived on time and bidding farewell to the Receptionist we drove to catch our flight back to Mumbai in the evening.

A memorable trip! I raise a toast to my wife for the meticulous planning and Swiss holidays,Sanjukta who helped a great deal.I should not forget the advise rendered by Pooja and Bashir

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