Spain Part 3 - Granada

The Magnificent Alhambra in Granada

Our day starts at 8:30 when we board the coach to travel to Granada the last point in the Golden triangle of Andalucia. The journey should take 3:30 hrs with our customary rest stop after 2 Hrs driving.The roads were excellent,plenty of Orange groves and Olive gardens.Soon we started seeing a mountain range up ahead and a while later we could see that it was snow topped.This is the Sierra Nevada range in southern Spain,beyond which lies the Mediterranean sea.......

We reached Granada,city centre at Noon and checked in,We had just enough time to do a quick tour of the environs,have lunch and regroup for the coach tour of the afternoon.

Granada has the usual quotient of Churches and museums like any other southern European city and so we headed to the Cathedral cutting across the Main Plaza.It dates back to 1523.After a quick look at the Royal Chapel of Granada where Isabel and Ferdinand are buried we rushed to a Tapas street to feed ourselves.It was Sangriya, Gazpacho and a Spanish omelette.Here Tapas (starters) come free with the drink.Were now ready to take on the afternoon.As we saw from the coach,the city and its architecture seemed to be  influenced by its glorious past. Roundabouts with fountains and Cármenes(houses that include typical gardens) create an unforgettable impression.A bit of Granada's history: 

The Spanish occupation by the Moors began in 710 AD when an African army,crossed the Strait of Gibraltar from north Africa and invaded the Iberian peninsula.The Moors ruled and occupied the Peninsula until well into the twelfth century when they were finally defeated by the christian forces from the north,except for Granada where in 1238 Ibn  Nasr marched his troops and followers and proclaimed himself as the first Sultan of the region.He allied himself with the Christian king of Castille in the north and Granada became a vassal state. For the next 250 years the Nazrids would govern Granada.For strategic reasons the Sultan decided on building a Fortress at the foothills of Sierra Nevada mountains,on a hill top;this is a fortress and a palace city without any parallel across the world.This is Alhambra. The Citadel of the Moors.The name Alhambra comes from Arabic, meaning "red or crimson castle",due to the colour of the towers and walls.
We had a specialist guide who more than shared his knowledge of the monument interspersing his talk with a generous amount of Moorish history as we had a lot of walking to do.We were first shown the etched general layout drawing of Alhambra and the way the Sultans added the palaces,channeled water from the river to feed numerous gardens and the townships. Reservoirs and Dams were built.
The permitted tourist route is around 3.5 Kms and takes a little more than 3 Hrs,at leisurely pace.
Generalife: The lush and gorgeous gardens of the Nasrid kings,the expansive Generalife was the summer palace of the Sultans. It was built in the mid 13th century. The principal attraction is the Patio de la Acequia which is a long channel of water,with water sprays on the sides,surrounded by foliage.Within we found beds of colorful flowers,exquisite architecture,leaping fountains and cool shade.

Sultan's Room for R and R

                    
On the left above,we got an overview of the palaces,gardens,houses and workshops.Also the Palace of Christian king and the church are visible at the far end.On the right,view the city of Albaicin below.
                                                               
Beautiful snow capped Sierra Nevada.



Walking along the pathway next to the expansive gardens

Having completed the Generalife gardens we walked towards the Palaces and got this view through a shaped hedge.
We are now going through Alcazba;Remains of the fortress are seen here.This is the oldest part of the Alhambra and offers some of the finest views of nearly the entire city and the Sierra Nevada mountains.(shown above).Alcazba today shows only some of  the ruins of a town which once held soldiers' homes,armoury,workshops  and baths.

Ruins of the old town

As we walk the guide points out a U shaped location in the mountain and explains:By the end of 15 th century there were internal wrangling and external pressure from both Castille and Aragon,until finally in the year 1492 the last bastion of Islam fell with Boabdil the Sultan surrendering to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel. Boabdil left with his family and entourage, and on the way,stopped at this location on the mountain for a last look at his kingdom.As he was sighing and sobbing,his mother is said to have scolded him;"Why are you now sobbing like a woman over the loss of the city,when you were not man enough to defend it"This point or Pass to the south of Granada is called Moor's sigh.Now we know where Salman Rushdie got his famous book's title from.
 The Alhambra's most celebrated structures are the three original royal palaces.These are the Mexuar,Comares Palace,the Palace of the Lions,each of which was built during 14th century.A large fourth palace was built by the Christian ruler,Carlos V.But the tour includes complete viewing of the first two along with Generalife gardens. 
Mexuar hall is the one which we see first,as we enter the gate of the Nasrid Palaces.The Mexuar was the public reception hall of the Alhambra,where the Sultan and his Vazirs heard the requests and pleas of the populace,who climbed up from Albaicin and came through the Gates. Geometrically designed tiles and carved stucco panels give it a formality suitable even for receiving dignitaries.On the door,one of the tiles of the wall says: "Enter and fear not to ask for justice,for you will get it".

Tile work at Mexuar

Comares Facade

Behind El Mexuar stands the formal and elaborate Comares facade.The facade is built on a raised three-stepped platform that might have served as a kind of outdoor stage for the ruler. 

We entered Comares and passed through a dark winding passage which opened to reveal a series of beautifully decorated rooms with walls and ceilings in mind blowing stucco moulds in various hues.

                       

                                                   
Next,we walked into the serene Comares courtyard,the first of several reflecting pools.This was the focal point of the Comares Palace.The fulcrum of courtly life surrounded by the chambers of the palace.

This pooled area is called the courtyard of the myrtles after the evergreen and aromatic hedges that line the pool.While built as a residence for the Sultan,the tower at rear was used as a Throne room.

For sure,gardens and water fountains, canals,and pools are a recurring theme in construction across the Muslim dominion.
Water is both practical and beautiful in architecture. Nasrid rulers of Granada made water integral.They brought the sound,sight and cooling qualities of water into close proximity,in gardens,courtyards, and marble canals. While contributing to the serenity of the setting,it also doubles the visual impact of the palace through reflection.

The Alhambra’s largest tower,the Comares Tower,seen behind in the picture,contains the Hall of the Ambassadors, a throne room built in early 14th century.This room exhibits the most diverse decorative and architectural features contained in the Alhambra. ( So it is in other places too!)

Our guide explaining the details about Hall of Ambassadors

The double arched windows illuminate the room and provide breathtaking views.Additional light is provided by arched lattice windows set high up in the walls.The walls are lavishly decorated with tiles laid in symmetric geometric patterns.The remaining surfaces are covered with intricately carved stucco motifs and calligraphy - Poems in praise of God or the Sultan.

 
The ceiling of Hall of Ambassadors is a masterpiece of lavish artistry.Made of wood it is designed and painted to represent the seven heavens of Islam.On the right is the pattern of tile used on the walls at eye level.
Our Guide explains:The great hall with all its magnificent craftsmanship was considered as a means to overcome the weakness in military strength of the small kingdom,during diplomatic negotiations.It was designed and constructed to impress the foreign envoys as it exhibited an aura of supreme invincibility.The lighting was so designed as to focus on the throne.The Council that decided to surrender the city of Granada to the Catholic Monarchs met inside this hall.The legend also says that it was here that Columbus convinced the Catholic Monarchs to give their approval to his expeditions which lead to the discovery of America in 1492,and that the Queen offered her jewelry to sponsor the journey.
Next, we enter the Palace of Lions created by yet another Sultan.The Palacio de los Leones stands next to the Comares Palace.This  Palace's most celebrated feature is the fountain with a complex hydraulic system consisting of a marble basin on the backs of twelve carved stone lions.It is situated at the intersection of two water channels that form a cross in the rectangular courtyard.Water juts out of each of the lions mouth making it very attractive when in full flow.

An arched covered patio runs through the perimeter of the courtyard and displays fine stucco carvings held up by a series of slender columns.Two decorative pavilions protrude into the courtyard at the narrow sides accentuating the royal spaces behind them.
We go into Sala de los Mocarabes (Muqarnas Chamber); It takes its name from the intricately carved system of brackets called "muqarnas" that hold up the vaulted ceiling.It was fabulous!

The geometrical divisions of the vault above is not only dazzling with light filtering through the tiny windows but defies the mind to believe that such craftsmanship was possible and was executed by the Moorish designers 600 years ago! This is why the word Awesome! was born.
Across the courtyard on the other side is the 'Hall of Kings" with another extraordinary vault.The room has multiple alcoves,some with an unobstructed view of the courtyard.Have a look.

We have now covered the tourist permitted areas of the two palaces and when we come out,we don't know what had hit us.All that we saw,seemed like....Heaven on earth.Yes I have been to Kashmir, Switzerland and Gurudongmar lake in Sikkim which are all Heaven on earth due to natural beauty.Alhambra shows the degree to which art can be perfected to produce incredible features.At times we had goose pimples and there were moments that we did not want to lose.But that is...wait a minute,we did not see a single wall or ceiling or floor decorated with pictures of God! Why?
Islamic faith is the answer.It prohibits pics of Gods.Consequently,the walls are not covered with mosaics,frescoes,paintings of God or religious figures unlike in Temples,Churches,Gurudwaras etc.There is plenty of Calligraphy extolling the virtues of God but no picture.The belief being,the image of God can lead to worship of the physical than the devine. Therefore there should only be representation of the divine in the form of "abstract beauty".So the Moors used Symmetry to show the brilliance of the mind of God.The walls of Alhambra are so rich and beautiful because they have lots of different symmetries created by patterns on tiles,stucco etc.

As we exited we walked past a lovely garden of Roses and other flowers beds.Alhambra's own way of saying "Thanks for your visit and have a nice Day!"
The evening was upon us as our coach climbed down the hill,the passengers remaining extremely quiet,reflecting upon all that they had seen during the past few hours.It was an extraordinary sensory experience.More profoundly however,this is a place to reflect.Given the beauty,care and detail found at the Alhambra,it is tempting to imagine that the Nasrids planned to remain here forever; Throughout the complex in the carved stucco,the words, “...no conqueror,but God” appears; left behind by Nasrids who had once conquered Granada.Ironically,they lost their kingdom to conquerors. It is a testament to the Alhambra that the Catholic monarchs who besieged and ultimately took the city left this complex largely intact.It is even said that they lived as though under siege while the Muslims outside were hostile to their presence.

One last word....I have to share info received about the gypsies of Sacromonte a neighborhood of Albaicin. They arrived about 600 years ago and one of the places where they congregated was in the caves of the Sacromonte. The mixture of Arabic influence combined with the particular lifestyle and temperament of the gypsies created Flamenco.There is a big rush to see them perform the Flamenco in front of their caves.Here is a painting by Isidoro Marín Gares depicting the caves.. 

Having had a long but eventful day,we freshened up and completed our dinner in the hotel before calling it a day.
Tomorrow we leave Andulacia and  proceed up North to Toledo in the proximity of Madrid.

Until then...Adios!
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