Budapest

Buda on the left and Pest on the right separated by chain bridge,see details of  bridge below.

A comfortable bus journey from Vienna brought us to Budapest in 3 Hrs and we located our apartment at Kiraly Utca where Reka Manczur was awaiting our arrival.She is a fitness trainer and a very helpful person who runs the BnB. Soon it was afternoon and time to go on our discovery tour of the city.

Budapest,the capital of Hungary, considered to be one of the largest cities in the European Union,is a combination of two cities Buda and Pest, which were

united in 1873 to form Budapest.We are crossing the Chain Bridge,the first permanent stone-bridge connecting Pest and Buda. It is one of the symbols of Budapest, the most widely known bridge of the Hungarian capital.We are told that  eight bridges span the Danube in Budapest,each built with a different character and style.These bridges are a vital part of Budapest transport infrastructure and also popular tourist attractions.We have now reached the Buda Castle hill.  

The main structure of the Buda Castle hill, known as the Royal Palace,is rather austere.Our guide informs that  the interior in particular is completely devoid of ornamentation and none of the magnificent royal apartments have been reconstructed since the battering it received in the 17th century. But despite its lack of authenticity, the Buda Castle is still an imposing complex,and the more than three hundred meter long facade towering over the Danube is particularly impressive. 

Walked the Castle Hill plateau admiring the beautiful buildings, following the cobblestone streets and were soon among a throng of tourists in the vicinity of Matthias church.The historic Matthias Church is over 700 years old. The church was the scene of several coronations, including that of Charles IV in 1916, the last Habsburg king. It was also the venue for the great Hungarian King Matthias' two weddings, hence its name. 

Fisherman's Bastion: Located right behind the church,it is one of the city's biggest tourist draws.The bastion is made up of smallish conical towers - each one symbolizing one of the Magyar tribes that,in 896,settled in the area now known as Hungary.There used to be a Rampart here in medieval times which was defended by fishermen. Hence the name.The structure looks straight out of some fairy-tale and conjures up thoughts of Cinderella or Sleeping Beauty.From atop the structure,you get a splendid view of the Danube river and over Pest as shown below.That is the Parliament building on the Pest side.

We concluded our Buda visit with a trip to Gellert hill and saw the Citadel from where the German SS regiment held the city at bay.We had a great view of the Danube with two of the bridges and the city on either side.( See the Pic at the beginning)

On a lighter vein,I take your mind back to "My Fair Lady" movie,where Eliza Doolittle dances with Zoltan Karpathy. He was called the "dreadful" Hungarian by Mrs.Pearce,the housekeeper.That got stuck in my mind!In reality,I found the Hungarians I met,to be soft and affable.They spoke very good English...the younger lot...and inspite of years of submission to Turks,Nazis and Communists during the last four centuries Hungarians remain confident and are proud of their achievements in the Sciences and Arts.

Back in Pest side of the city we are now driving through  Andrássy Avenue dating back to 1872.It is lined with spectacular mansions and townhouses featuring fine facades and was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002.Under Andrássy street runs the continent’s first metro, the Millenium Underground, opened in 1896, also part of UNESCO World Heritage.

At the end of Andrassy Ave is the Heroes’ Square created at the end of the 19th century to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Magyar Conquest of Hungary in 895. The Heroes’ Square is dominated by the Millennium Monument which features statues of the seven tribal leaders who founded Hungary in the 9th century. 

We see  a Thermal bath for which Hungary is famous.
History: Budapest has had several great thermal baths for many centuries.The Turkish baths along the river Danube are still functional and much favored. But more than a thousand years before the Turks, the Romans and even before them, the Celts have been

enjoying  the warm spring waters as baths, healing waters and drinks.No wonder that by the 21st century, Budapest has reinvented itself as the city of medicinal waters and amazing thermal spas. The bathing culture of the Hungarians is very lively and health conscious: not only are water sports held in great respect, but the young and the old all enjoy the spa waters and the fun bath complexes. Aqua therapy is part of the regular medical practice, and doctors often prescribe water treatments in the healing spa waters for Hungarian patients. We are let off in the city centre from where we walked to a Kurdish joint for tea and eats. Thus ended our first day.

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Day2

We were informed to take a ride on Tram No.2,being one of the nicest ways to see most of Budapest’s major sights all for the price of a regular ticket! So we did..The route hugs the Danube and opens up both Buda (Castle Hill) and the Pest side of the city.

Margaret bridge

We start at the Margaret bridge.Then the magnificent Parliament building and the beautiful Museum of Ethnography, formerly the Palace of Justice.The Hungarian

Parliament

Academy of Sciences graces the view on the left, while the gorgeous Chain Bridge leading to Buda sits on the right where we can also view the Palace and Mathias church..A handful of modern and luxurious hotels line the riverbank on the left, as does the historic and still beautiful Danube Embankment, a romantic promenade, perfect for casual strolls.We are taking in the breathtaking panoramic view of Buda skyline.We can see outdoor restaurants and cafes as well as the Elizabeth Bridge one of the capital’s beloved examples of post-World War II architecture and Gellért Hill dominating the skyline complete with the statue of Gellért himself and the battle-torn Citadel up top.

We were satisfied and alighted the tram at the next stop,missing the last 5 minutes of the 20 minute ride. 
We stroll along the beautifully decorated streets at the city centre enjoying an

ice-cream.There are plenty of tourists like us,already gathering at various Cafes,shops and under shady nooks as the Sun is quite warm. 

Decided to go to Keleti Rly station to convert our coded reservation into a ticket for travel to Prague. Located about 2 miles from the  city center the building was completed 1884 and, at that time, was considered one of the most modern railway stations of Europe.Here you can look at the facade.

After a leisurely lunch of Hungarian Goulash downed with some great local beer we came back to the Apt for R and R before setting out in the late afternoon for our evening cruise on the Danube.
But first ..The Beer Bike.....

We saw this passing by and were curious to know more.It is a beer bike which tourists can rent for an hour or two to enjoy their time together as also do sight-seeing.It comes in various sizes and can accommodate  upto 16 people.Max 10 can pedal while others take rest. 30 liters or 60 mugs of fresh draft beer is included in the cost of Euro 200 for 2 Hrs

Danube cruise,Budapest

We took one of the Danube boat trips at  sunset.. It was really nice to see the city from the river and also hear a lot of information about the buildings and history.As the sky darkened we could see all the major attractions lighted up.A very pretty picture indeed. Two drinks were  included in the ticket price to make the cruise even more pleasurable.

                                                                                                           

                                                                                                     

   

         

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Day 3 

Our 3rd morning was dedicated to learning about Jews and their turbulent history in Budapest as we walk through the Jewish quarter.

In 1873, there were about 45,000 Jews living in the city. By 1930 this number had grown to 200,000, representing 5% of the population. The Jewish minority was prominent in areas of trade, science, art and business. More than half of the businesses were owned or operated by Jewish families. Jews also represented one-fourth of all university students and in the interwar period a large number of Hungarian doctors, lawyers, engineers, journalists, and musicians identified themselves as Jews by religion.Their success was intolerable for certain Hungarian leaders. As Hungary suffered greatly after WWI, Jews remained the most visible minority and the Jewish population was made a scapegoat for all that had happened. Anti-Jewish policies were fast-tracked.

Cut to WWII...In the days following the German occupation, Adolf Eichmann arrived to oversee the deportation of Jews from Hungary.Jews were forced to wear  a yellow star of David and 200,000 Jews were moved into a walled-in Ghetto of 2000 homes in about a third of a Sq.Km; the living conditions were diabolical..What a stench! Towards the end of WW II, and even though Eichmann and his aides knew that Germany had lost the war, trains continued to roll to Auschwitz. About half a million Jews were deported from Hungary.
After the war, much of the area fell into ruin and disrepair, until some people cashed in on the dilapidation and turned it into the trendiest neighborhood in the city.(See Ruined Bars.)

Along the banks of the river between the Chain bridge and Parliament building is a monument to Hungarian Jews shot and thrown into Danube by Fascists in 1944.It is a simple and poignant display of 60 pairs of old style boots and shoes tossed haphazardly on the bank.This is the Shoes monument of Jews.

The Jewish Synagogue is the largest and most famous synagogue in all of Europe,built between 1854-1859 it stands majestically on Dohany street,within the Jewish quarter.The two towers topped with golden dotted onion domes in Moorish style,stem from the concept of church tower,something unseen in traditional synagogues.On top of the synagogue we see the stone tablets with the ten commandments and above the main entrance gate the inscription in Hebrew: “And let them make Me a sanctuary that I may dwell among them” 

Holocaust Tree of Life Memorial,stands over the mass graves of those murdered by the Nazis in 1944–45. On the leaves of the metal tree are inscribed the family names of some of the hundreds of thousands of victims.

We stopped every now and then to appreciate the Quarter for its street art and a sample of what we saw is here.

Hungary beats England, Wembley 1953

Empress SiSi

in Rubik's favour

Ruin Bars of Budapest 

It started around 2001, so the story goes, with a bunch of young men looking for cheap places to drink. From their thirst and shallow pockets have grown some of the most lively and stylish places to drink in Budapest -- so-called ruin bars.Derelict buildings and unused outdoor spaces have been transformed into friendly, chaotic bars where you can still get a large beer for less than $2.

Our last evening was dedicated to the Danube river front, Istefan Basilica and later to a lively show of Hungarian folk dance at the beautiful,chic,Danube Palace. 

 The auditorium is a splendid room with bas-relief cherubs and scenes of eighteenth-century pastoral life adorning the walls and ceiling.Red carpeted stairs add to the elegance. We loved the hall and the performance 

We left with the impression that It is a magnificent city, even compared with the great pantheon of European capitals,and it has been an anchor of Hungarian culture since its inception.



To Prague we go next...See you there.

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Vienna

St.Stephan's

Does it suffice to say that Vienna was the cradle of western classical music?No,it was much much more.
Through the 19th century,much of Central and South-east Europe was ruled from Vienna,the seat of the powerful Hapsburg Empire, known as the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the 19th century.Its provinces, shown in this map, were inhabited by many different nationalities.It was one of Europe's cultural capitals.Fine wine,exquisite art,coffee,cakes,dress-up balls and the good life flourished here.Composers like Mozart,Beethoven,Brahms,Strauss Sr.and Jr.came here to launch their careers. Vienna was also home to Freud.By the year 1900 it had 2.2 million people and was the fifth largest city in the world.After defeat in the First World War, the empire was dissolved. Austria and Hungary separated, and parts of the empire joined Italy,Romania,the restored Poland and the new states of Czechoslovakia and Yugoslavia.In the 1990s the component states of Czechoslovakia and Yugoslavia became independent. Take a look at the map below.

Day 1
We arrived in Vienna and located at Stephan Platz, the city centre which made it easy to walk to most of the attractions that the city had to offer.In just under 10 minutes we would reach the famous Opera house,more later,and walk to the meeting point for the walking tour.We pass Albertina museum on the left and could see emperor Franz Josef I astride on his horse.


Our tour begins...Albertina Platz itself is filled with statues including the powerful thought provoking Monument against War and Fascism. This is a work of an Austrian sculptor.The monument serves as a reminder of a very dark chapter in history,and pays homage to all those who lost their lives.The split white sculpture,The Gates of violence,remembers victims.You can see an old Jew crawled on the floor enmeshed in barbed wire and scrubbing anti-Nazi graffiti off the street with a tooth brush. 
This monument stands on a spot where WWII bombs struck,demolishing a cellar and burying several hundred people alive.Finally,we see a declaration that established democratic Austria in 1945.

Some recent history...
Austrians had been led into WWII by Germany,which annexed the country in 1938,saying Austrians were wannabe Germans.(But Austrians are not Germans and will never be.Germany wasn't a nation till 1870,Austria has a thousand year heritage.) From 1945,Austria lived through 10 years of joint occupation by the Allies until it became a free nation in 1955.
Leaving history behind...we are informed that the popular Bitzinger Wurstelstand is nearby for delicious Bratwursts,Wieners and some beer.We also pass by the classic Cafe Tirolerhof which has the old world charm... Chandeliers,marbled tables,upholstered booths and waiters in Tuxes.Coffee and Vienna are forever linked from 17th century when the invading Turks,Ottomans, introduced it.It was first an aristocratic drink and then became a hit with the working class in the 19th with the coming of the Industrial age.By 20th it was refined...when waiters came around with a sheet of paper with various shades of brown for customers to specify the strength.

Tirolerhof cafe

We turn into grand  Karntner strasse, and walk looking up modern store fronts and also getting a feel of the street's former glory.We amble along and see an orange-ish church with a triangular roof and cross.This is the Capuchin church,home of the Kaisergruft or the Imperial crypt which is located in the basement.It is filled with what is left of the Royalty,the Habsburgs. No less than 150 members of the family.Most famous among them was Maria Theresa who ruled for 40 years from 1740-80.Besides reforming the Government,banning torture,and funding schools,Maria also found time to have 16 children.Ill fated Marie Antoinette was her youngest daughter who was married to the king of France.
We are in the Neuer market and the first thing that strikes you is the Donnerbrunnen fountain that is located in the centre of the square.Built in 1737,at the centre is the allegory of Providentia interpreted as the wisdom of good governance.She foresees  great water supplies for Vienna and is surrounded by four figures that are the four main rivers of Austria.
                    The Austrian National library is the next stop at Joseph Platz. Oh What a grand feast it is!!The State Hall of the ANL exhibits one of the world's most beautiful architecture in Baroque style with ceiling frescoes.It is home to some 200,000 books published between 1501-1850.Together with marble statues and walnut bookcases it presents a magnificent glimpse of the 18th century!

Next,The Hofburg: Below is the facade showing the present entrance to this sprawling complex.

It was the official residence of every Austrian ruler since 1275 and the seat of the Habsburgs. Today it is occupied by the Austrian President.It consists of numerous buildings(18 of them,19 courtyards and 2500 rooms) reflecting various period architecture from Gothic,Renaissance,Baroque and Rococo.It is like the Vatican,a city within a city.Imperial apartments, Museums, Library, Treasury with collection of Imperial regalia,family silver and a Chapel are to be found here.
The Dome over the entrance and the main gate from the inside are shown below. The horse buggies are maintained in top condition to cater to tourists. They complement the grandeur of the location and give you a feel of the centuries gone by. 

 

In the centre of the platz outside is a Caesar like statue of Emperor Franz II.He ruled in the early 1800's. Franz was the grandson of Maria Theresa,grandfather of Franz Josef and the Father in law of Napoleon.(Imagine their X-Mas dinner party!).

Franz II statue faces a colorful red and golden gateway called the Swiss gate.It is the oldest part of the palace.This was the site of the old fortress with a moat and drawbridge.

                                                   

We go through the main entrance,shown earlier, past the museum and the tunnel that spills into a spacious area known as Heldenplatz or Heroes' square.We see a new Palace on the left built in early 1900 as the new living quarters.Their plans were shattered by the onset  of WWI in 1914 when emperor's nephew and heir Ferdinand was assassinated.This was the eventual end of seven centuries of Habsburg rule.But why call it Heroes' square?

There stand two equestrian statues,Prince Eugene who battled the Ottoman Turks and Archduke Charles who fought Napoleon.

In 1938,when Hitler returned to Vienna in triumph,he addressed his adoring throngs from the balcony of the new Palace.See pic below.

We pass the famous Demel,the oldest cafe and bakery in Vienna which serves cakes and other dishes hand crafted to century old traditional recipes.Some of them used to satisfy the cravings of emperor Franz Josef who had Demel cake and pralines served secretly during his trysts with his lover.We are now in the Kohlmarkt which is Vienna's most elegant and unaffordable shopping street.There is Cartier,Armani,Gucci,Tiffany and other famous jewelers here.

Next we see the Plague column.It is a 60-foot pillar sprouting angels and cherubs.At the top is the gilded trinity,Father,Son and Holy Ghost.Why was it built?In 1679 the city was hit by bubonic plague and 1/3rd of the population died.The then emperor dropped to his knees and begged God to save the city. Lady faith,statue with the cross,with the help of a cupid tosses an old naked woman,symbolizing the plague,into the abyss,saving the city.In gratitude King vowed to erect this monument as did many other kingdoms who were ravaged with the plague. 

Our next stop is the Cathedral of St.Stephan (See watercolor heading this blog),Stephan Platz,Vienna's famous address and the absolute city centre. The Habsburgs set foot in Vienna in late 13th century and around 1350's laid the corner stone of the Nave and aisles.From then on, it took over two hundred years for the building to reach its present shape.

Its North tower is half the size of the south tower.Why?

In 1529 the Ottoman Turks invaded.Construction funds had to be diverted for war efforts and construction of tower was stopped..For the next two centuries Vienna fought a rising tide of Islam.Finally they were driven off for good in late 17th century.They left behind bags and bags of Coffee and the city's first coffee house was opened.

Mozart,got married at the Cathedral and  lived here in the 1780's and one of his many residences is just a block behind.Here we are at the end of the guided walk.

Sat at a side walk cafe for Sacher Torte made famous by Franz Sacher. It is a two layered chocolate cake separated by apricot jam and coated with chocolate icing.It is often accompanied by unsweetened whipped cream. Yummmmm!
After a brief siesta we headed to the Opera house for a guided tour.

Opera House painted by Hitler in 1912

The Opera house,built in 1869,is located on the busy Ringstrasse that circles Vienna's historical core.This is the throne room of Classical,Musical Vienna.Generations of great composers (musicians) flocked to Vienna; Haydn, Mozart ,Beethoven, Brahms,Strauss Sr/Jr among others.It is a symbol of the golden age.Gustav Mahler and Richard Strauss served as musical directors. Pavarotti, Calas,Domingo have all sung from its stage.Even today the Opera belts out 300 shows a year,both traditional and cutting edge.
The inside is sumptuous. Chandeliered lobby,carpeted stairs,tapestry and murals depicting scenes from famous Operas,marble busts of all the famous composers,Royal boxes,the huge stage with its many sections,the orchestral pit,and the theater itself with five wrap around balconies,gold and red decor,and a magnificent Chandelier to top it all.

Entry/Exit  for  the Royalty,

There is a giant outdoor screen where some performances are projected to public.We were lucky to watch Verdi's Opera,Don Carlo here.

Apart from the Opera house this incredible city of music has other venues such as the world famous Vienna Boys Choir and Vienna Philharmonic(Musikverein) and Haus der Musik.
Pavement on the side walks had star shaped plaques honoring maestros of classical musik.
Our day continued on a short  tram ride on the Ringstrasse where a young Indian boy helped us purchase and validate our tickets.We returned to the Opera house and passed by cafe Sacher,run by the makers of the original Sacher Torte.

 Thus ended a great day full of history and grandeur.

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Day 2
Out in the Danube's Wachau valley.....

The Wachau is a stretch of the Danube valley,40 Kms between the towns of Krems and Melk,a landscape of high visual quality. We decided to take a day trip to this beautiful valley,a UNESCO heritage site to the west of Vienna.
Our trip started early so as to allow us to motor down to Krems where we transferred to a boat for a cruise up the Danube and berthed at Melk to visit the good old Monastery there.
I shall present a photo tour for your benefit.

The Road trip:

Our bus commences journey from the main bus station with a guide speaking English,German and Spanish.We leave the bustle of the city and drive to the countryside over very good roads.Weather behaves and we are able to enjoy our ride to our heart's content. Krems is lush and many villages and towns with their own churches and cathedrals could be seen,each one a picture postcard.
On our left is the Danube and on the right are villages with  land put to agricultural use.

The valley is secluded by hills on either side with the river snaking its course.

Here is the famous 

Gottweig Abbey set up in 1083 AD where the monks earn their livelihood  by making their own brand of wine.
 Krems,Gottweigand Wachau are 

synonymous with good wine.

We are now approaching the

ruins of Dornstein castle 

where the English king Richard "the lion heart" was  imprisoned  in 1192-93 by Leopold V of Austria.This is a popular 'ruins" in these parts and attracts good amount of tourists.Below on the left is   

the medieval church of Michael.We took a break here and walked around and went up the watch tower which had some bright murals painted

            Shortly,we arrived at Spitz  to catch our boat after a 90 minute exhilarating drive.

The Cruise:   

We take the top deck or the Sun deck if you wish.The weather is even better now and there is cool natural breeze.The boat is gentle and the going is good.Danube here is not very wide and one can easily view both the banks and take in the scenery.More castle ruins,beautiful farm houses and all close to the river highlighting the fact that Danube was a trading route from the middle ages. It is a super romantic part of the Danube and a prestigious wine country.                                                                        

                   

   
                     

The waitresses waste no time in getting orders for drinks and we welcome it after the long bus ride.

The smooth gliding motion of the boat and the drinks serve to enliven us as we watch medieval relics pass by in decent succession.

                                         

   

Below is Schonbuhel castle.It is built  on rocks approx 40 meters above the level of Danube.It stands out majestically as we pass and every one on board is clicking away furiously as the boat turns along with the river.   

We have passed many small and  big boats as we sailed.People waving and smiling and pointing out so that none would miss the sights that the ride is throwing up.
The pic on the right is when we heard the captain announce the impending arrival of Melk, our destination.The lull was broken and people got busy after a laze on the deck for about 100 minutes.
It was heavenly while it lasted.

Melk: A UNESCO Jewel

                                                                        Riding the coach to the Abbey we see that Melk is a sleepy but  elegant town.The restored Benedictine Abbey beams proudly and towers over the Danube valley and is one of Europe's great sights.Established in the 11th century,it was destroyed by fire. What visitors see today is 18th-century re-creation.For 900 years, monks of St. Benedict have lived and worked in Melk's abbey, during the Reformation (1500s), occupation by Napoleon (1800s), and the Nazis (1900s). Today, the institution survives, funded by agriculture and the horde of tourists.
Before the guided tour we got a break and we used the time for a modest lunch followed by apricot filled pancakes for dessert.We had time to visit the Park with its Baroque pavilion/cafe adorned with some fine frescoes.

We toured the monastery's museum,marble hall,Library and the church.We learnt that there are more than two dozen Benedictine monks here and a few hundred children who attend the Abbey's secondary school.There are regular classical concerts,open to the public.As amazing as the architecture is,the   role the abbey has played as a spiritual centre in old Europe is noteworthy.






The marble hall was another place that would dwarf a grand palace ball room.
The ceiling frescoes were outstanding. 
Greek Gods were roaming the skies to pay reverence to a Habsburg emperor.



The entry to the Museum was lighted in Purple!! A first for me.Take a look.

The word Höre is part of a motto, Höre und du wirst Ankommen ( Listen and you will arrive ) which is part of the Benedictine dictum.They have got it even on the steps to the parking lot,so it's the last thing you see before you leave.




The Museum was in top shape and well organised.As you walked,you saw the life of St.Benedict evolve. The development of the monastery and its role in society over the centuries unfolded.The most stunning room was entirely covered with mirrors,reflecting and multiplying four gold statues placed strategically,one in each corner.

Most visitors flock to the main library,world famous for its 16000 ancient books...No pics allowed here and keep your hands off please as many books are more than 500 years old.Once again we see awesome ceiling frescoes in vibrant colours. Richly decorated galleries and bookshelves.The library is not just a show piece.It is still in use as a few gaps in the book shelves showed.There is a small library behind the main library and there is a cute spiral staircase too!

The Church:The top architects of European Baroque have done a thorough job!The place climaxed the art of glorifying God;the rule of St.Benedict.

Where does all the money come from? crossed my mind as I marveled at richly carved and gold plated pulpits,marble columns and delicate frescoes.

We were given access to the balcony of the Abbey and got stunning shots of the town,farms and river below.

With this our long and eventful day comes to an end as our guide beckons us to our seats on the coach,on our way back to Vienna.

We were let off at the Opera house and as we ambled slowly watching the giant screen showing yet another Opera we heard.....

Hare Krishna Hare Krishna, Krishna Krishna Hare Hare
Hare Rama Hare Rama, Rama Rama Hare Hare

Closer to home at Stephanplatz we sat for Coffee and Sacher Torte and watched the world go by....

( In Vienna once you have taken your seat it is left to you to ask for the bill,settle and go out)

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Day 3
Early morning start to enable us to spend some more time at St.Stephan,before heading to the Horse show.Going up the tower was always on our mind and opted for the shorter tower as we would go up by an elevator.The taller tower requires you to climb the steps.The tower hosts the largest bell of the cathedral that weighs 21 tons. There was a Chinese invasion of sorts when their big group came immediately after us with their interpreter.Oh what a noise these guys make wherever you see them 
We could see the ornately patterned,richly coloured roof done with glazed tiles.  

The views of Vienna from the top.

In the grounds of the Hofburg,from 1735 is located the famous Spanish Riding school.It is a leading attraction,thrilling audiences watching from 3-Tiered chandeliered galleries,with precision display of equestrian skills by Lipizzaner horses,a breed dating back to 16th century.The horses and the riders demonstrate the haute ecole,high school movements of classical dressage...highly controlled stylized jumps known as the "airs above the ground".Tickets to performances sell quickly,so be sure to book as far in advance as possible.

       

We now head to Musikverein--Friends of Music

It is a very beautiful concert building located in the centre of Vienna created 

under a historic decree by emperor Franz Joseph who in 1857,when we were busy with Sepoy mutiny,ordered removal of the city walls to build a sophisticated modern boulevard,Ringstrasse,and also gave a plot of land for the construction of Musikverein (MV) hall.It opened in 1860.A truly classical ambiance pervades the Institution,seeped in Renaissance antiquity,for the performance of classical music.
Our tour lasted 45 minutes and the young guide showed us every Hall and answered all our questions.It was a treat of a different kind.
MV has a complete ensemble of Concert halls.

A great Hall,Golden Saal,the crown jewel,with opulent decor,seating 2000.Apart from the ceiling frescoes of Apollo and the nine muses,it has busts of famous composers who had already died by 1870.Because of its boxed rectangular construction acoustic experience is good throughout the hall.A void beneath the wooden flooring provides,just as with violin,a resonating base. 
It has long been a Vienna Philharmonic tradition,at the New Year, to present a program of music from the vast repertoire of the family of Johann Strauss and its contemporaries.These concerts not only delight the audiences in the MV in Vienna, but also enjoy great international popularity through the worldwide television broadcast,which now reaches over 90 countries.                    
                                      Brahms Saal:

Johannes Brahms not only performed in person in this hall,he was also behind the very first concert to be performed here, by Clara Schumann on 19 Jan 1870. The Brahms Saal remains one of the most prized locations for the greatest chamber music ensembles and lieder singers performing in the world today. 

In 2004 MV undertook significant expansion and created four additional subterranean halls.In the largest of the Four New Halls, “gold” motif was adopted from the Grand hall and combined with the element of “glass” to translate it into a modern setting.Basic elements – metal, stone and wood – also lent each of the other new spaces,the Metal, Stone and Wooden Hall.These halls are much smaller and are used for rehearsals,music conferences and receptions. Acoustic quality is top class in all these halls.

Archive · Library · Collections of the MV are the most important private music collections worldwide.It was a founding ambition of the Society of MV to document the history of music as comprehensively as possible.Manuscripts and printed scores, letters, books and periodicals, paintings, sculptural objects and photographs,recordings and musical instruments have all been added to the collection.The music library of Beethoven,was bequeathed to the Society: ninety boxes each weighing 250 kgs and containing priceless Beethoven documents. What is perhaps the most famous of all Beethoven’s manuscripts is the transcription of the “Eroica” score, with its dedication to Napoleon erased by the composer.
Lunched at a Cafe on Ringstrasse and as we were returning to our room we saw a huge traffic pile up nearby and  music blare from speakers.Stopped to see a huge "Rainbow Parade" popularly celebrated as gay parade" the world over,making a visible statement for the acceptance of Homosexuality.People dressed and undressed,some with coloured faces and limbs carrying out a huge procession...walking,cycling,cars,buses,trucks and so on with large banners and graffiti...festoons,balloons, but no fire crackers!

We spent time at the Vienna Stadtpark in the late afternoon.

If you are looking for the ideal place for a souvenir photo, then Vienna's Stadtpark is the spot - at the foot of the golden Johann Strauss memorial, one of the world's most photographed monuments. Also located in the Stadtpark, are monuments to Franz Schubert,Anton Bruckner and many more. This makes the Stadtpark the richest park in Vienna for monuments and sculptures.  Meadows, flowerbeds, the occasional exotic tree and a large pond make the Stadtpark a green oasis in the center of the city. The park was opened in 1862, and is Vienna's first public park.

Vienna is done; we move to Budapest tomorrow
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