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| Buda on the left and Pest on the right separated by chain bridge,see details of bridge below. |
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A comfortable bus journey from Vienna brought us to Budapest in 3 Hrs and we located our apartment at Kiraly Utca where Reka Manczur was awaiting our arrival.She is a fitness trainer and a very helpful person who runs the BnB. Soon it was afternoon and time to go on our discovery tour of the city.
Budapest,the capital of Hungary, considered to be one of the largest cities in the European Union,is a combination of two cities Buda and Pest, which were
united in 1873 to form Budapest.We are crossing the Chain Bridge,the first permanent stone-bridge connecting Pest and Buda. It is one of the symbols of Budapest, the most widely known bridge of the Hungarian capital.We are told that eight bridges span the Danube in Budapest,each built with a different character and style.These bridges are a vital part of Budapest transport infrastructure and also popular tourist attractions.We have now reached the Buda Castle hill.
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The main structure of the Buda Castle hill, known as the Royal Palace,is rather austere.Our guide informs that the interior in particular is completely devoid of ornamentation and none of the magnificent royal apartments have been reconstructed since the battering it received in the 17th century. But despite its lack of authenticity, the Buda Castle is still an imposing complex,and the more than three hundred meter long facade towering over the Danube is particularly impressive.
Walked the Castle Hill plateau admiring the beautiful buildings, following the cobblestone streets and were soon among a throng of tourists in the vicinity of Matthias church.The historic Matthias Church is over 700 years old. The church was the scene of several coronations, including that of Charles IV in 1916, the last Habsburg king. It was also the venue for the great Hungarian King Matthias' two weddings, hence its name. 
Fisherman's Bastion: Located right behind the church,it is one of the city's biggest tourist draws.The bastion is made up of smallish conical towers - each one symbolizing one of the Magyar tribes that,in 896,settled in the area now known as Hungary.There used to be a Rampart here in medieval times which was defended by fishermen. Hence the name.The structure looks straight out of some fairy-tale and conjures up thoughts of Cinderella or Sleeping Beauty.From atop the structure,you get a splendid view of the Danube river and over Pest as shown below.That is the Parliament building on the Pest side.
We concluded our Buda visit with a trip to Gellert hill and saw the Citadel from where the German SS regiment held the city at bay.We had a great view of the Danube with two of the bridges and the city on either side.( See the Pic at the beginning)
On a lighter vein,I take your mind back to "My Fair Lady" movie,where Eliza Doolittle dances with Zoltan Karpathy. He was called the "dreadful" Hungarian by Mrs.Pearce,the housekeeper.That got stuck in my mind!In reality,I found the Hungarians I met,to be soft and affable.They spoke very good English...the younger lot...and inspite of years of submission to Turks,Nazis and Communists during the last four centuries Hungarians remain confident and are proud of their achievements in the Sciences and Arts.
Back in Pest side of the city we are now driving through Andrássy Avenue dating back to 1872.It is lined with spectacular mansions and townhouses featuring fine facades and was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002.Under Andrássy street runs the continent’s first metro, the Millenium Underground, opened in 1896, also part of UNESCO World Heritage.
At the end of Andrassy Ave is the Heroes’ Square created at the end of the 19th century to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Magyar Conquest of Hungary in 895. The Heroes’ Square is dominated by the Millennium Monument which features statues of the seven tribal leaders who founded Hungary in the 9th century.
We see a Thermal bath for which Hungary is famous.
History: Budapest has had several great thermal baths for many centuries.The Turkish baths along the river Danube are still functional and much favored. But more than a thousand years before the Turks, the Romans and even before them, the Celts have been
History: Budapest has had several great thermal baths for many centuries.The Turkish baths along the river Danube are still functional and much favored. But more than a thousand years before the Turks, the Romans and even before them, the Celts have been
enjoying the warm spring waters as baths, healing waters and drinks.No wonder that by the 21st century, Budapest has reinvented itself as the city of medicinal waters and amazing thermal spas. The bathing culture of the Hungarians is very lively and health conscious: not only are water sports held in great respect, but the young and the old all enjoy the spa waters and the fun bath complexes. Aqua therapy is part of the regular medical practice, and doctors often prescribe water treatments in the healing spa waters for Hungarian patients. We are let off in the city centre from where we walked to a Kurdish joint for tea and eats. Thus ended our first day.
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Day2
We were informed to take a ride on Tram No.2,being one of the nicest ways to see most of Budapest’s major sights all for the price of a regular ticket! So we did..The route hugs the Danube and opens up both Buda (Castle Hill) and the Pest side of the city.
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| Margaret bridge |
We start at the Margaret bridge.Then the magnificent Parliament building and the beautiful Museum of Ethnography, formerly the Palace of Justice.The Hungarian
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| Parliament |
We were satisfied and alighted the tram at the next stop,missing the last 5 minutes of the 20 minute ride.
We stroll along the beautifully decorated streets at the city centre enjoying an
ice-cream.There are plenty of tourists like us,already gathering at various Cafes,shops and under shady nooks as the Sun is quite warm.
We stroll along the beautifully decorated streets at the city centre enjoying an
Decided to go to Keleti Rly station to convert our coded reservation into a ticket for travel to Prague. Located about 2 miles from the city center the building was completed 1884 and, at that time, was considered one of the most modern railway stations of Europe.Here you can look at the facade.
After a leisurely lunch of Hungarian Goulash downed with some great local beer we came back to the Apt for R and R before setting out in the late afternoon for our evening cruise on the Danube.
But first ..The Beer Bike.....
But first ..The Beer Bike.....
We saw this passing by and were curious to know more.It is a beer bike which tourists can rent for an hour or two to enjoy their time together as also do sight-seeing.It comes in various sizes and can accommodate upto 16 people.Max 10 can pedal while others take rest. 30 liters or 60 mugs of fresh draft beer is included in the cost of Euro 200 for 2 Hrs
Danube cruise,Budapest
We took one of the Danube boat trips at sunset.. It was really nice to see the city from the river and also hear a lot of information about the buildings and history.As the sky darkened we could see all the major attractions lighted up.A very pretty picture indeed. Two drinks were included in the ticket price to make the cruise even more pleasurable.
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Day 3
Our 3rd morning was dedicated to learning about Jews and their turbulent history in Budapest as we walk through the Jewish quarter.
In 1873, there were about 45,000 Jews living in the city. By 1930 this number had grown to 200,000, representing 5% of the population. The Jewish minority was prominent in areas of trade, science, art and business. More than half of the businesses were owned or operated by Jewish families. Jews also represented one-fourth of all university students and in the interwar period a large number of Hungarian doctors, lawyers, engineers, journalists, and musicians identified themselves as Jews by religion.Their success was intolerable for certain Hungarian leaders. As Hungary suffered greatly after WWI, Jews remained the most visible minority and the Jewish population was made a scapegoat for all that had happened. Anti-Jewish policies were fast-tracked.
Cut to WWII...In the days following the German occupation, Adolf Eichmann arrived to oversee the deportation of Jews from Hungary.Jews were forced to wear a yellow star of David and 200,000 Jews were moved into a walled-in Ghetto of 2000 homes in about a third of a Sq.Km; the living conditions were diabolical..What a stench! Towards the end of WW II, and even though Eichmann and his aides knew that Germany had lost the war, trains continued to roll to Auschwitz. About half a million Jews were deported from Hungary.
After the war, much of the area fell into ruin and disrepair, until some people cashed in on the dilapidation and turned it into the trendiest neighborhood in the city.(See Ruined Bars.)
After the war, much of the area fell into ruin and disrepair, until some people cashed in on the dilapidation and turned it into the trendiest neighborhood in the city.(See Ruined Bars.)
Along the banks of the river between the Chain bridge and Parliament building is a monument to Hungarian Jews shot and thrown into Danube by Fascists in 1944.It is a simple and poignant display of 60 pairs of old style boots and shoes tossed haphazardly on the bank.This is the Shoes monument of Jews.
The Jewish Synagogue is the largest and most famous synagogue in all of Europe,built between 1854-1859 it stands majestically on Dohany street,within the Jewish quarter.The two towers topped with golden dotted onion domes in Moorish style,stem from the concept of church tower,something unseen in traditional synagogues.On top of the synagogue we see the stone tablets with the ten commandments and above the main entrance gate the inscription in Hebrew: “And let them make Me a sanctuary that I may dwell among them”
Holocaust Tree of Life Memorial,stands over the mass graves of those murdered by the Nazis in 1944–45. On the leaves of the metal tree are inscribed the family names of some of the hundreds of thousands of victims.
We stopped every now and then to appreciate the Quarter for its street art and a sample of what we saw is here.
Ruin Bars of Budapest
It started around 2001, so the story goes, with a bunch of young men looking for cheap places to drink. From their thirst and shallow pockets have grown some of the most lively and stylish places to drink in Budapest -- so-called ruin bars.Derelict buildings and unused outdoor spaces have been transformed into friendly, chaotic bars where you can still get a large beer for less than $2.
Our last evening was dedicated to the Danube river front, Istefan Basilica and later to a lively show of Hungarian folk dance at the beautiful,chic,Danube Palace.
The auditorium is a splendid room with bas-relief cherubs and scenes of eighteenth-century pastoral life adorning the walls and ceiling.Red carpeted stairs add to the elegance. We loved the hall and the performance
We left with the impression that It is a magnificent city, even compared with the great pantheon of European capitals,and it has been an anchor of Hungarian culture since its inception.
To Prague we go next...See you there.
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