1/18/20

Israel Part 2 - -Masada,Dead Sea,Tel Aviv and Kibbutz

Fri 15/11

A coach was arranged by Abraham tours to take our small group of 10 to Ein Gedi,Masada and the Dead sea.Today we will be seeing a lot of the Dead Sea.The coach ride of over 90 min had one stop which was useful to watch Camels who were kind enough to pose. 

Ein Gedi natural reserve is an Oasis 80 Kms south of Jerusalem.After driving through miles of brown and beige desert and getting hazy views of the Dead Sea,the green lushness of the Ein Gedi Oasis showed up.This nature reserve has everything from hiking trails to ancient ruins. It is set between the harsh Judean Desert and the sterile Dead Sea. Below the craggy cliffs,are seemingly miraculous fresh water springs flowing into clear streams and waterfalls.We spent about an hour here.



We saw this Hyrax clinging to a rock as is his/her wont.





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Further up Masada is an ancient fortress in southern Israel’s Judean Desert about 100 kms south of Jerusalem adjacent to the Dead Sea.  Built around 30 BC by King Herod,Masada is located on a massive rock plateau 450 meters above the level of the Sea,was a palatial fortress in the style of ancient Roman architecture.Herod who ruled from 37 BC to 4 BC knew the strategic advantage of Masada and chose the site as a refuge against his enemies.During his reign luxurious palaces, camps, store houses,living quarters and double walled fortifications were built, the ruins of which can be seen at the top.
Roughly 100 years later a group of rebel Jews took refuge here fleeing from the Romans.In the course of a few years the Romans built a ramp to the top of Masada and battered the fortifications. About 960 Jew rebels decided to commit mass suicide rather than live in shame and humiliation as slaves of Romans.
Today a  cable car and a long winding path climb up to the fortifications and we could see the ruins of all that was built.Most of the artifacts discovered have been moved to museums.We spent an hour here before taking the cable car for our return,have some lunch and get back to the coach.

We are now heading north with the Dead sea on our left.The Sea is also  known as the Salt Sea and is actually a lake.It has a single source, the Jordan River,and is not connected to the ocean.It is landlocked causing the water to evaporate and leave behind massive amounts of salt,making it so dense that people can float on top of it. We are driving to Kalia beach.Our driver/guide informs us that the sea is sinking at the rate of more than a meter every year and that dangerous sink holes are appearing near its shores..
Why?As the salty water recedes fresh groundwater wells up and dissolves layers of salt creating large underground cavities above which sink holes form.The holes can open without warning.We were shown  Resorts and beaches that have closed down,collapsed and abandoned buildings owing to formation and threat of sink holes.
If you truly want to experience what the Dead Sea is all about, a visit to Kalia Beach,one of the best known beaches of the Dead Sea,is a must. The beach is located at the northern area of the Dead Sea,a beautiful spot. A lovely terrace built above the beach provides a gorgeous view of the  waters of the Dead Sea and the surrounding mountains. 


There was access to amenities like locker rooms,showers and bathrooms.After changing we walked down to the beach which was at least 50 stairs down and there was a big crowd,many of them covered in mud and a number of them floating in the water.We could see tents, chairs and beach showers stationed throughout.
We entered the water and found it very slimy and slippery and poky on the feet.Slowly we sat down and the lay on our backs and were easily floating.I underestimated how easy it was to float as the water contained 30% salt and minerals as compared to sea water which has about 6% salt.We would have spent 20 minutes in the water and were careful not to ingest it. 
It was carnival like atmosphere. And you have the lowest Bar too! The irony of it all was that we were enjoying our time,a moment in history while a catastrophe was in the making..Dead sea may be dead by 2050! 
After a thorough wash up we joined our group and drove back to Jerusalem as the sun was setting.

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Sat 16/11 After our breakfast we were transferred to Tel Aviv the capital of Israel.Under an hour we reached Abraham Hostel in Tel Aviv.
A word about Sabbath:Every week religious Jews observe the Sabbath, the Jewish holy day,and keep its laws and customs.Sabbath starts a few minutes before sunset on Friday and runs until an hour after sunset on Saturday.God commanded the Jewish People to observe the Sabbath and keep it holy as the fourth of the Ten Commandments.
All public activity ceases ...shops,restaurants,public transport all are closed/stopped.
Tel Aviv Sea front
Jerusalem and Tel Aviv are only about an hour away from each other but in a lot of ways they are worlds apart. Jerusalem is the Holy City and Israel's ancient capital, while Tel Aviv is a modern cosmopolitan metro and technology capital.While history is deeply embedded in Jerusalem’s culture,Tel Aviv is in the process of creating a history of its own. A hub of technology – Israel has more tech start-ups and venture-capital funding per capita than anywhere.Tel Aviv is the center of the movement. Jerusalem expresses the middle east with its people and religions along with their appeasement and conflicts. But Tel Aviv is the expression of the dreams of most of the people who live in Israel.Many Tel Avivis look down their noses at Jerusalites – and by extension,the rest of the country — as parochial,uncultured and fraught with conflict. 
We walk to Jaffa. Now some history for you before we reach Jaffa.

Jaffa the southern and oldest part of Tel Aviv is an ancient port city. The port continued to be important through history and served as the main entry point to the land of Israel until the late 19th century when Jews from around the world began to return to Israel. It was through Jaffa that they entered the country and in Jaffa that many settled. The huge population increase led to overcrowding and tense relations developed between the Jewish and the old Arab residents of the city. As a result Jews began building outside of Jaffa and formed the city of Tel Aviv.

From our Hostel it is a good 40 minutes leisurely walk down south up to the Jaffa Clock tower and port area.The Clock tower was built during the Ottoman rule more than a century ago to pay homage to the region’s Ottoman ruler and his vast empire. The tower’s clockworks symbolised modernity and served as a source of pride for the Jews and Arabs in Jaffa who collaborated in building it.

The Old City is home to winding alleys filled with craft shops and art galleries, and stalls selling antiques and jewelry at the lively Jaffa Flea Market. 



The Setai Hotel,near the entrance to the Marina and port is a $500 a night hotel.This was a police station and  jail house until recently.This is where Adolf Eichmann was held for two months pending trial and execution.

Past the hotel we got a panoramic view of the Mediterranean as well as the many beaches that line the shore.There is a beach for Dogs here!
A public promenade walk framed by the sea includes a sandy beach, picnic areas and outdoor workout equipment.
On the other side is the old Jaffa Port from where many fishermen head off into the sea each night.


The Suspended Orange Tree at Jaffa

Artist Ran Morin has created this amazing work of art in Jaffa entitled ’Orange Suspenda’. The orange tree’s soil and roots  are encapsulated by a planter that resembles a seed. The tree is modestly fed by an inconspicuous drip system and continues to grow and put forth fruit.Morin's work of art represents the closeness of man and nature.Symbolically,it also represents, for some, Israel’s rebirth as a nation and triumph over sand and wasted lands.

Florentin is an old part of  Tel Aviv which hasn't yet seen the same scale of gentrification as others.It has a very mixed population,
traditionally characterized by poverty and yet is youthful and yuppie. It is a symbol of south Tel Aviv, and is a fascinating area to walk through,looking at their prowess in street art contrasting the modern Tel Aviv.  

Feeling good!
We are now on Rothschild blvd. which is one of the most important and iconic streets in Tel Aviv. Located in the heart of the City, Rothschild Blvd. is a commercial center, with major financial institutions lining the street, a cultural center with the main theater and concert hall of Tel Aviv,a culinary center with tens of top restaurants, and a leisure center popular with dog walkers,bikers and some of Tel Aviv’s wealthiest and beautiful who stop off at the amazing coffee kiosks found here.Walking along Rothschild Blvd is a beautiful experience,stopping along the way to observe the building architecture,occasionally sitting on the benches and observing people,children and dogs.



Before I leave TA I must tell you about the White City area,where buildings are in white in Bauhaus style that provides a good insight into a particular form of architecture that came out of Germany in the 1930's. The Jewish settlers coming at the beginning brought the hottest architecture of that time with them.In fact there are around 4,000 Bauhaus style buildings in Tel Aviv. Many buildings are in pristine shape while others are getting there. The Bauhaus style favors functionality over ornamentation and asymmetry and regularity over symmetry.





I leave you with this photo of Abraham Hostel that was our abode.

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Sun 17/11
Today we are visiting a Kibbutz a word that means "gathering".
Kibbutz is a type of settlement which is unique to Israel. A collective community,traditionally based on agriculture,the first kibbutz was founded by pioneers in 1910. Today,there are over 270 in Israel and they have diversified greatly since their agricultural beginnings with many now privatized. Regardless of their status,the kibbutz offers a unique insight into Israeli society,and the visit was memorable to say the least.

Our group of eight visited Ma'agan Michael.one of Israel’s largest known Kibbutz for its successful business activity turning out handsome profits.They are located an hour north of our hostel near the Mediterranean sea.Established in 1949 there are 1000 members,including children and elderly residents some in their 90's.

Laundry segregation and labeling is Unique!
After a pleasant welcome and introduction Yari Sharon,our Host,kept us busy for the next 20 minutes when we watched a video presentation.Then he took us around his complex  showing their system of communal services for the convenience of the residents.It includes a communal dining room,food storage,laundry, washing and distribution,two grocery stores,landscaping and maintenance services of all kinds.We visited the vehicle authority which manages more than 100 vehicles of different kinds and provides vehicles to members for transportation. Healthcare and clinics,hair styling and pedicure are also provided.
In the beginning,school going children were kept separate from their parents and were managed by teachers and the support staff and provided meals as required.At that initial stage parents were heavily involved in developmental work.They would meet their children  for about 2 Hrs every evening.Now that they are developed they all live together.
About 150 members work in very senior positions outside in various professions,and their salaries are credited to the Kibbutz and forms a significant portion of the income.In other words no member of the Kibbutz earns privately.All the proceeds from the business activities including fish-farming, avocado crops and plastics production#, are placed into a pool that serves the community and its members equally.The management process is entirely democratic and goes through elections.
#Plasson Industries Ltd. is a global manufacturer of plastic fittings for plastic pipes used in water distribution systems, gas conveyance systems and wastewater systems. Additionally, its division 'Plasson Poultry' is a leading manufacturer of systems for Poultry farming.
The community is a big family with no social or economic levels,” Yari explained. “Even if you are a member with wealth through inheritance, it goes back into the community pool.”
Through their joint efforts, families are provided with homes, children grow up together and attend the same schools, members partake in various extracurricular activities, and daily communal meals are prepared in large dining halls. Each member is given an equal allowance that is used to buy food in the communal dining room or clothes and everyday necessities from the stores and markets. 
There are regular cultural interactions to keep the diverse members together and traditions alive.
Yari walked us through the kibbutz’s wide streets, abundant in tropical trees and plants and the sound of birds and children at play. As we strolled,community members walking or passing by on their electric Carts or bicycles  gave us a warm greeting. 
There are spacious Gyms,swimming pools and Art/Drama centers.Anyone wanting to pursue higher education in Engineering, Medicine, Arts etc can seek and obtain financial help to go to University.
Likewise the Kibbutz will raise funds for a costly Surgery.Also one can propose a business plan and obtain financial help.An elderly authority provides for the well being of all elderly Kibbutz members.
Yari in white Tee
We visited the Cobalt Mediterranean Sea  near by and concluded our tour at the dining hall, overlooking the ocean, enjoying a delicious lunch and feeling overwhelmed about everything we had seen and heard.We met Yari's wife (teacher) and daughter at lunch who were happy that we had enjoyed our visit.


Cooking Workshop.
We got together at our Hostel's spacious  kitchen in the evening to learn to make Shakshuka for dinner.
Shakshuka has more than a few things going for it. It’s fun to say, fun to make and fun to eat. The word Shakshuka comes from Arabic, It may date all the way back to the Ottoman empire.You’ll find it in Libya and Tunisia, and it’s become a staple dish in Israel. Shakshuka features poached eggs in a hearty,spiced tomato and pepper sauce.
We had a young chef working at a famous restaurant in Tel-Aviv. Previously he worked as an IT engineer and has high regard for Bangalore which he has visited.We were a dozen diners and participated joyfully in dicing ripe peeled and poached tomatoes, thinly sliced onions,red peppers,green peppers and crushed garlic.We used some mushrooms and parsley too.Spices used were sweet paprika,ground cumin seed,salt and pepper to taste.

All the ingredients were cooked in a large flat skillet over Olive oil and once it simmered we added raw eggs sunny side up by making indentations on the simmering puree!

We cut egg plant,cauliflower and boiled potatoes after brushing them over with olive oil and let it bake in the oven.Finely chopped green salad and fresh
bread were the accompaniments for this very sumptuous dinner.

Part 3 follows.

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