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| Giraffe at the Acacia tree |
The beginning itself was exciting when at the Chennai Airport we found,to our dismay, that the entire camera case along with its lenses was left behind to roost.Upon reaching Mumbai we rushed to Churchgate and picked up the identical Canon camera from Bashir,our SIL,and made haste to catch the flight to Nairobi.
There was much waiting at the airport that night as the incoming Kenya Airways flight was delayed, and eventually we took to the skies at 7AM.We landed in Nairobi at 10 AM,got our Visas on arrival, and Shama Chitnis our friend and organiser was waiting there with the Van to pick us up.
After a welcome lunch with Shama and Rashmin her husband we were introduced to Isaac our Kenyan driver and official guide for the trip.We loaded our luggage on to the vehicle and started on our trip to Aberdare National Park and The Ark our first stop.
We drove for 3 1/2 hrs North from the city steadily climbing and reached Aberdare country club.After a brief halt we transferred to the Club's coach for our drive up to the Ark featured on the left.
Built by a NewZealander in 1969 in the heart of the Aberdare National Park, The Ark is a unique tree lodge that overlooks a floodlit waterhole and a salt lick which attracts a host of wildlife. Elephant, Rhino, Leopard, Bushbuck and giant forest Hog are regulars here.Resembling and named after Noah's Ark, The Ark is designed with 'decks' from which numerous balconies and lounges provide superb vantage points for game viewing. A ground level bunker with viewing cutouts provides excellent photographic opportunities and takes you closer than you would believe possible to the animals. Elephants love the natural salt lick of the water hole.Numerous other animals visit this busy meeting place all day and night so there is always something to see.A buzzer system operates in each room to alert you when there is something very special to see such as a Leopard, who usually sneaks to the floodlit waterhole in the dead of night. It is of course up to you whether or not to get up! 
The welcome was a pleasant Jambo! in Swahili and we were shown to our rooms which we found to be small but snug.We were then shown around the Ark, the four decks and the various look outs to the watering hole where we could already see some buffaloes and wild hogs.Very soon a large elephant entered the scene much to the displeasure of the smaller ones.The elephant came down on its front knees and using its tusks started digging a hole for water.It inhaled the water with its trunk and started all over again.This went on and on.I took this pic from the bunker.By now it was dark outside and we were looking for refreshments and some entertainment after a long day.
After an enjoyable evening when we all celebrated the India win and heard about the state of the game in Kenya we went to bed hoping that the buzzer would go in the middle of the night announcing the arrival of an exotic beast to our fold.But no such incidents marred the night and we slept quite peacefully.
Day 2...Serena sweet waters tented camp.
We left The Ark after a good breakfast and the Coach carried us all back to the club where Isaac was waiting to take us on our next leg of the Safari.We trundled on bad roads for a while watching Kenyan families walking to the their catholic churches in their Sunday best.Later on the highway and passing through Nanyuki, a market town in central Kenya, we came upon the Equator.The picture on the right was taken by a local who was eager to show us how water flows in opposite directions on either side: North of the Equator-water flows down the plughole clockwise,South of the Equator-water flows down the plughole anti clockwise.On the Equator-water flows straight down.We then went into one of the many Curio shops in the vicinity,purchased souvenirs, had a cup of tea and were on our way.
A sheltered oasis, clustered around a water hole and set in the pristine calm of the private Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Sweet waters Tented Camp offers a charming blend of under-canvas ambiance and safari luxury.
The reception at this well maintained Resort was very impressive and there was nothing coarse or rustic about the "camp" as one would imagine going by the name.The service and variety at the well appointed dining hall was excellent,to say the least The interior of the tent was luxurious and partitioned well between the bed & bath facilities.After lunch while she rested,I sat on the verandah training my camera and binoculars at the large water hole in front and observed nature.After a coffee we started out on our game drive and stopped at the Chimpanzee sanctuary first. There was a lot of howl and play among the many Chimpanzees that we saw there.
Chimps are not monkeys.They are from the family of great Apes that include Orangutang and the Gorilla.Chimps are highly intelligent,noisy,curious and social
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| white Rhino |
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| Baraka,the black Rhino |
We also saw plenty Gazelles,Impalas,Antelopes and wild buffaloes grazing in the reserve. It was truly nature at its best in this private conservancy. It was now time to pay a visit to Baraka, a black rhino. He is unable to return to the wild where he was born, after losing one eye in a fight and the other to a cataract. Most of his two horns were removed to make him less appealing to poachers. Now he serves as the public ambassador for rhino conservation, mingling with the tourists and accepting their handfuls of hay. And when we reached out across the wire fence to touch the rhino, his face lit up like a little kid’s.
We were now traveling through very narrow dirt lanes in the bush trying to get a view of Lions that Isaac heard about on his radio from other drivers.We just got a glimpse at a distance of a family of three.
Later, as the dusk fell we saw a score of baboons sleeping up on a tree.It was a wonderful sight.We saw Mt.Kenya in the distance,very symmetrical and straddling the equator, as we concluded our interesting game drive for the day. We left the grazing animals behind and entered the domain of the Serena Resort for Beer and dinner .We parted with Isaac who wished 'lala salama"...sleep peacefully! 
Day 3...Samburu National Park,
We got an early start after a great breakfast and jolted our way across to the highway going north from Serena.Soon we were driving through freshly surfaced roads winding our way through undulating landscape of farm land and in the distance Mt.Kenya.We stopped for photographs of this beautiful view.
The weather changed appreciably as we coasted down the plains where Samburu was located.We had stopped at a check post and as Isaac went about his work we were troubled by numerous vendors selling food,music CD's,handicrafts, and one of them flashed a 10 Rupee note at me and wanted Kenyan shillings in exchange.Interesting! The heat was picking up as we reached 'Archer's Post" in the rift valley and saw a number of tribal huts and many wearing tribal costumes.They would provide a discerning tourist with a photo opportunity at a big price we were told by Isaac.He forewarned us not to be over enthusiastic and we let the photo-op pass by.
The first thing one notices on a Samburu safari is that it is very dry and hot. Samburu National Reserve is situated on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River in the dry northern reaches of Kenya. It is a hot and arid area characterised by a parched landscape of hills and plains.
We got an early start after a great breakfast and jolted our way across to the highway going north from Serena.Soon we were driving through freshly surfaced roads winding our way through undulating landscape of farm land and in the distance Mt.Kenya.We stopped for photographs of this beautiful view.
The first thing one notices on a Samburu safari is that it is very dry and hot. Samburu National Reserve is situated on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River in the dry northern reaches of Kenya. It is a hot and arid area characterised by a parched landscape of hills and plains.
The River is the lifeblood of the area, especially during the dry season when it draws wildlife to its waters .... Oryx, Dik Diks,Giraffe, buffalo, water buck and zebra (including the endangered Grevy's zebra) from the surrounding savannah plains trek to the water. Big game are also seen, thanks in part to the lack of grass cover.Samburu is also home to large herds of elephants, and the reserve is well known for providing the opportunity to see wildlife that only lives in the dry north of Kenya.
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| Dik Dik |
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| Marsh eagle |
We were relieved to enter the threshold of the Resort which was very rustic and the welcome was pleasant;After a cool drink and a refreshing cold towel we were escorted to our rooms.They were designed to represent a tribal hut with thatched roof and overlooked the dry bush on either side But there was no Power.We were informed that electricity is distributed only in the morning and evenings for 4 Hrs each.However,a fair amount of intermittent breeze,not very hot, was keeping the room relatively cool and fit enough for a Siesta.We had lunch,rested and after some refreshing coffee... Kenyan Coffee is very good...we started on our drive.It was still very warm and there was no action for the first hour or so.Then it all started as we went deeper in to the bush.The Marsh eagle shown here would not move from its perch and I spoke my mind out by telling Isaac that I would like to get down and shake the tree a bit.He gave me a stern look that said it all.In the bush you have to be careful and even trained personnel do not break rules that forbids one from getting out of their cars.The game wardens and rangers are constantly on the move and will slap a very heavy fine on the tour operator and impound the license of the guide for any misdemeanor.We saw graceful Somali ostriches,ringed back waterbucks, and gerenuks,the distinguished looking Gazelles with long necks that stand on their hind legs to feed on plants, not to talk of the many kinds of Fowls with colorful coats that would appear from nowhere and be on their way.The drive was now picking up steam and wherever we looked we saw some game.We had plenty of company as many other land rovers and vans had smelt the action so to say. |
| Somali ostrich |
And then we had a group of giraffes
stealthily moving through a part of
the bush with tallish trees and stopped for feeding.With 18" long
tongues they can easily pick and wrap the best of leaves available on
trees.They are the only animals immune to thorns on the branches The drive ended at about 6:30 in time to make a hasty retreat to our
abode for the night.There is a fairly strict rule that the vans should
return by 7PM,otherwise you could be left outside the closed gates of
the Resort open to the elements.We exchanged notes with a Dutch couple
who were also doing a similar safari circuit as ourselves and who told
us stories about the customs of the local tribes etc |
| Gerenuks |
Day 4..More of Samburu before we hit Mt. Kenya Safari Club
The next morning Isaac drove us for a game drive relentlessly following the radio and talking to others constantly to get the bearing of an elephant family.After a long drive we saw the family of 4 elephants,3 adults and a baby.This was an excellent treat first thing in the morning.We drove,we stopped for pictures,drove and stopped not wanting to leave
the family.We saw the baby going right through the legs of the mother
and suckling.The African elephants are majestic to look at with their
large ears.
African elephants are the largest land animals on Earth. They are slightly larger than their Asian cousins and can be identified by their larger ears that look somewhat like the continent of Africa. Asian elephants have smaller, rounded ears.Elephant ears radiate heat to help keep these large animals cool.
Our stop at the Country Club can be called a rest day.We were away from Isaac and the Van.I was swathed in comfort in a well appointed room with great views of Mt.Kenya, while Sumee was busy with her massage, swimming,browsing the Curio shop and so on.Later in the evening we walked up to the coffee shop and seated on the terrace sipping the brew we observed some very colorful birds foraging on the manicured lawns.We were taken on a tour of the expansive property in an electric car/cart.In the evening a small local group put up a Masai dance for the guests where we met a Gujarati family,now Kenyan citizens, and got talking to them.We had dinner and called it a pleasant day
Day 5...From Mt.Kenya Club to Lake Nakuru,a rift valley lake
The Great Rift Valley is a geographical and geological feature running north to south for around 4,000 miles (6,400 kilometers), from northern Syria to central Mozambique in east Africa Astronauts say it is the most significant physical detail on the planet that is visible from space. In Africa the terrain ranges from salt flats more than 500 feet (152 meters) below sea level to towering, snow-capped mountains. The Rift is known for its spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife. A series of some thirty lakes lies along its length; the three largest in Africa are known as the Great Lakes and include Lake Tanganyika the deepest lake in the world, and Lake Victoria the second-largest freshwater lake in the world. Some of the oldest remains of ancestral humans have been found in the African segment of the valley.
We left Mt.Kenya club in the morning and very soon turned into a dirt track and the ride was so bad that we digested our King sized breakfast soon.This went on for an hour and quarter before we hit a smooth new highway and suddenly the vast expanse of the Rift valley was there to behold.Indeed a great sight.We took short breaks at Thomson waterfalls and Isaac's village and drove on to the city of Nakuru which translates to "Dust or Dusty Place" in the local language.
African elephants are the largest land animals on Earth. They are slightly larger than their Asian cousins and can be identified by their larger ears that look somewhat like the continent of Africa. Asian elephants have smaller, rounded ears.Elephant ears radiate heat to help keep these large animals cool.
After a steady climb for the next 2 1/2 Hrs we reached Mt.Kenya safari club in the vicinity of Serena sweet water camp that we had visited earlier.
Mount Kenya Safari Club is located very close to the the high slopes of Mt.Kenya, in a glory of luxurious cottages and elegant buildings set amid manicured lawns and decorative ponds. Ever since the club was founded in 1959 by the film star William Holden, it has been a Mecca for the international jet set - its list of members reading like a Who's Who of royalty,aristocracy,and the rich and famous.
Our stop at the Country Club can be called a rest day.We were away from Isaac and the Van.I was swathed in comfort in a well appointed room with great views of Mt.Kenya, while Sumee was busy with her massage, swimming,browsing the Curio shop and so on.Later in the evening we walked up to the coffee shop and seated on the terrace sipping the brew we observed some very colorful birds foraging on the manicured lawns.We were taken on a tour of the expansive property in an electric car/cart.In the evening a small local group put up a Masai dance for the guests where we met a Gujarati family,now Kenyan citizens, and got talking to them.We had dinner and called it a pleasant day
Day 5...From Mt.Kenya Club to Lake Nakuru,a rift valley lake
The Great Rift Valley is a geographical and geological feature running north to south for around 4,000 miles (6,400 kilometers), from northern Syria to central Mozambique in east Africa Astronauts say it is the most significant physical detail on the planet that is visible from space. In Africa the terrain ranges from salt flats more than 500 feet (152 meters) below sea level to towering, snow-capped mountains. The Rift is known for its spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife. A series of some thirty lakes lies along its length; the three largest in Africa are known as the Great Lakes and include Lake Tanganyika the deepest lake in the world, and Lake Victoria the second-largest freshwater lake in the world. Some of the oldest remains of ancestral humans have been found in the African segment of the valley.
We left Mt.Kenya club in the morning and very soon turned into a dirt track and the ride was so bad that we digested our King sized breakfast soon.This went on for an hour and quarter before we hit a smooth new highway and suddenly the vast expanse of the Rift valley was there to behold.Indeed a great sight.We took short breaks at Thomson waterfalls and Isaac's village and drove on to the city of Nakuru which translates to "Dust or Dusty Place" in the local language.
Lake Nakuru is at an elevation of 1750 m above sea level. It lies in the rift valley and is protected by Lake Nakuru National Park.The lake's abundance of algae attracts the vast quantity of flamingos that famously line the shore. Other birds also flourish in the area, as do Hogs,Baboons and large mammals. Black and White Rhinos have also been introduced.The lake's level dropped dramatically in the early 1990s but has since largely recovered.
As our Lodge,Sarova Lion Hill,was located deep inside the Park we decided to go on a game drive as we entered the gates;we drove along the perimeter of the lake and in to the bush and were lucky to spot a couple of Lions resting under the shade ~20 yds away.By now it was past midday and we decided to check-in and have lunch.We recommenced our game drive at 3:30 as the weather was favourable and soon spotted a number of waterbucks,rhebus monkeys, baboons, Zebras, gazelles, Buffaloes,Rhinos before coming to the rim of the lake where a sea of Flamingos,Pelicans and Gulls greeted us.Isaac let us get down to enjoy the ambiance...the sea of birds before us which when you advanced for a close-up photo would take off on their flight amidst a cacophony and land at a different spot on the shore...we enjoyed this chasing for a while.We then drove up to a view point to see the lake in all its splendor at dusk.
We drove some more watching a spotted Hyena approach stealthily to scavenge a carcass left behind by a Lion which was sleeping at a distance.When the lion moved a little the Hyena would jump and run only to come back to its feed as the big cat was satiated and there was no imminent danger.In the evening we were treated to a show of tribal dance accompanied by some great drumming, which got us in the mood to shake a leg along with the performers on the makeshift stage.The Beer and pinacoladas added to the party spirit that went on for a while before dinner.
Day 6...From Lake Nakuru to Masai Mara
We left the lodge early as we had a long ride in front of us.Very soon we spotted a family of lions.There were at least six of them,all resting very near the road basking in the cool morning Sun.We stopped for pictures and they stood still enjoying the attention that they got from us and some others.
We drove past the fresh water lake Naivasha,the highest and second largest fresh water lake in Kenya.We drove through very bad roads and at last at 1PM,much to our relief, reached the gates of the Masai Mara game reserve.Upon entry we found directions to the Mara Sarova lodge.We thought we had reached our destination.But Isaac said..No! we have just reached the game reserve and we are not staying in Sarova lodge.We have a long way to go before we enter the gates of Mara Serena Lodge.This took another 11/4 hrs ~ 50 Kms..Gives you a feel of the size of the reserve.
An area of gently rolling hills, woodland and acacia trees which is watered by the Mara and Talek rivers and opens onto the Serengeti plains of Tanzania. The Masai Mara Game Reserve is often called simply "The Mara" a reference to the patchy landscape. The Masai Mara is a Game Reserve although an inner area is treated as a National Park. Reserves are normally managed by local authorities and allow lodges, camp sites and the settling of some tribes with their cattle. National Parks are managed centrally and do not allow any human inhabitation other than for Park Rangers and people on safari. The Masai are a proud semi-nomadic cattle-rearing people with a fascinating culture. They are divided into a number of sub-tribes some of which share the Mara region. They have a very special relationship with cattle which are essential to their life-style. The Masai have survived a troubled history but are under increasing pressure to conform to modern society.
Being a popular game reserve, the Lodge was teeming with tourists and we could not get an adapter for charging the camera! All given away.We were the last to have lunch at the spacious dining hall and very soon we set out on our game drive.We went to the banks of the Mara river and saw Crocodiles
and Hippos.The crocs were waiting to catch anyone crossing the river,The Hippo crowd was not bothered by the Crocs or was it the other way around?
Why do Hippos prefer to stay in water? Hippos have very thin skins with no sweat glands.Their unique skin needs to be kept wet for a good part of the day. Staying out of the water for too long can lead to dehydration, so hippos try to stay in the water during the day.In the evenings, after the hot sun has set, hippos come out of the water for a night of grazing.In fact, this goes on for about six hours and they travel many a mile!And before dawn they rush back to the safety of their habitat
It had rained the previous week and we found the going difficult.We could not make inroads for fear of getting bogged down.So we had to be content watching Zebras and Elephants grazing in the vastness and drove back to the resort after a long day.Once again we had the Dutch couple for company and we quenched our thirst with Beer and wine and exchanged notes and soon it was time for dinner and snooze.
Day 7...Masai Mara ...2nd day
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| Breakfast in the bush |
It was a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
We drove a long way in the afternoon looking for the elusive Cheetah and Leopard but our efforts were in vain.However we saw a family of Lions basking under a Acacia tree and spent some time with them.
We returned early and sat with Beer looking at Giraffes and gazelles in the advancing twilight. We met a couple of Ugandan Indians who are now settled in Canada and heard stories about the Idi Amin atrocities
Day 8...Masai Mara to Nairobi
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| spotted Hyena |
Today is the last day of our Safari and Isaac has resolved to sight a Leopard or Cheetah.We got up early finished breakfast and checked out by 7AM to start on our long drive.First it was a Huge Tortoise just outside the gates, a lone Hyena and then we headed to the river where we saw a group of Lionesses waiting to cross over.Before long a number of vans/landrovers had joined us and one of them,probably egged on by the occupants,went very close to the animals which disturbed them and they quickly left the spot and and ambled across to the other side.A Park Ranger accosted the vehicle driver and probably took his license away.We were now leaving the reserve and suddenly Isaac said a Cheetah has been sighted near the Mara Gate.We made haste and the Gate keeper confirmed that the Cheetah was resting in the grounds a short distance away.What a sight.We spent 20 minutes here and soon were accompanied by a number of other cars. 
We took pictures at the Gate,and were on our way from
it all! |
| Gets the meal |
Good Bye Masai Mara, we will see you again some other time
Kwaheri...
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| Isaac Mughoya our Driver and Guide extraordinaire |
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| With Shama,who organised the wonderful Safari |
An Aft word.....
Moving around and watching animals interacting with Nature was a great experience.What they could not say was conveyed through their gestures,movement,flight,beauty and grace,strength and alertness.There is something here so very different from my worldly experience with human beings, that I will cherish and look for an encore
