Khao Lak - Thailand

smell the sea and feel the surf

let your soul and spirit fly

I dedicate this Blog to my grandson Aryaan

On the western seaboard of Thailand facing the gorgeous Andaman sea lies Khao Lak an hour and half drive north of Phuket island.It is one of Thailand's most peaceful resort destinations.The surrounding hills embrace national parks that sweep down to this lovely stretch of coastline with beaches that go on for miles.

 It was a very early start for us... Vasumathi, Bashir, Pooja Aryaan and I ..A's mid term break at school giving us the opportunity to travel together.
Go Air took to the skies and flew over the A'sea to dock at Phuket Int'l airport at 08:30 am..Airport was bustling with tourists mostly from Europe and Russia. Immigration,baggage collection and Customs were quick and after some coffee at Starbucks we booked a comfortable car and were on our way. We stopped at a 7-Eleven store, of which there were plenty,for some Granola bars and had a drink of sweet cane sugar juice to slake our thirst.The Sun was up and we were experiencing Tamil Nadu weather being at the same latitude.However the nearness to large bodies of water all around made it pleasant and we reached our Resort by mid day.

Before the Tsunami of 2004 Khao lak was a sleepy place with just 3 Hotels.It had a few prawn farmers,some mining and a bit of rubber.The sands were stained black from the mines.It made a fresh start in a few years giving tourists a low-key alternative from the overcrowded and brash resorts in Phuket. Today,the sands are clean and it has upwards of 15000 rooms shared between resorts and boutique hotels catering to a large variety of tourists from Germany,Russia,China,India and Australia among others.

We were greeted with a cheery smile at Manathai resort and Sawadeeka aah,uttered  in a sing song style with folded palms and a slight bow..We were treated to some delicious watermelon juice and marched off to our rooms. Must mention that Aryaan has been here with his parents twice before and was already  switched on to enter the pool.

But let me explain the layout. Our room had a lovely patio at the back opening to a well manicured lawn hemmed in by shrubs and hedges.Down the middle ran a pathway of flagstones leading all the way to a large pool with a Jacuzzi. Further up were the swaying palm of coconut trees providing shade to the guests lounging by the pool side or those who preferred to watch the azure sea that was a wonderful sight for tired eyes. There was not a ship or boat in sight.

Look at this pic for the serenity prevailing in the early morning at the unspoiled beach.Is it a painting?

Just like in Goa,here too there are shacks just by the side of the property for massage,laundry,tours and taxis,food and drink.Little wonder then that the many restaurants at the resort wear a bare look except during breakfast when an elaborate buffet is laid out for the multitude to dine.

Pad Thai

It was nearing 3pm and hunger pangs had set in.We pulled Aryaan out of the pool and sat at this Food shack called Lom Lay.To begin with we all had around of chilled tender coconut water...the expression "so sweet" must have originated in Thailand, surely! I for one have never sipped C'water as sweet.An assortment of Thai food was ordered with chicken,pork and shrimps.For Aryaan it was Pad Thai or egg fried rice with eggs with a mango juice. For those uninitiated Pad Thai is a noodle stir fry with a sweet-savory-sour sauce scattered with crushed peanuts. It’s made with thin,flat rice noodles,and almost always has bean sprouts, garlic chives, scrambled egg, firm tofu and a protein – the most popular being chicken or prawns/shrimp.At the end of the meal they would invariably serve a fruit plate comprising pineapple and water melon and mangoes too.Talking of Coconuts,here is a notice that I found stuck in the beach sand.

A couple can have dinner by the beach side under soft lights,an exclusive dinner party for a select group or even get engaged here. In fact we saw a couple getting engaged! 

Aryaan showed his prowess in the pool by doing back flips and rolls. The pic on the right shows him with a plastic thingamajig  weighted on both ends to form an arch underwater.He would glide through it easily without upsetting it.He was ready for snorkeling he said and that's when we thought of going shopping in the evening.

In less than 15 minutes of driving,past the many resorts,is the main shopping area.The star attraction is the Nanthong supermarket which  attracts a hoard of  tourists  living in BnB's,leased apartments etc to meet their daily needs.It is certainly better than the average 7/11. It has a great range of fresh bakery and a decent wine section (but certainly not cheap!)At the entrance stands a Thai lady with a cart making pancakes!Further up you can shop to your heart's content at the many retailers. There is a smattering of carts dishing out snacks and local delicacies. And there are restaurants, bars,tour agencies,money changers et al. 

We bought the snorkeling mask  and headed for dinner at Boom Boom restaurant and bar.It is on a dirt road but the food was good and staff very friendly.It is a misconception that all Thai food is extra spicy.There are many dishes that taste good with medium spice and are easy on the mouth and stomach.In many places we  chose seafood like whole fish and had it cooked to our liking. 

Manathai lays out a sensational buffet breakfast  with warm fresh baked breads and cakes, delectable fruits, eggs to order,a vast array of magnificent salads and great hot dishes that changes daily, together with all the usual fair.One is spoilt for choice here.
We would seat Aryaan with his breakfast first and then go and fill our plates to the brim.There is excellent coffee that she keeps pouring into the cup..and  you are confused  between juice (fresh and chilled),Fruits(Wow) and Coffee the aroma of which reaches all the way to the Pool. Poor stomach..it is tempted by too many good things only to"strike"later. Aryaan had no choice but to spend time eating what with the elders making regular visits to the buffet table for re-fills.

Walk to the Pool was  therapeutic with all the food swimming inside.It is a good 400 meters but the Sun is not harsh yet! I assembled Aryaan's snorkeling gear (mask) which fitted snug on his face.Immediately he jumped into the pool and barring interruptions for minor adjustments swam like an ace! Here he is.We decided to take him snorkeling in the sea on another day.

Khao Lak's many beaches extending to 25 Kms don't get listed among the world's most beautiful, as Krabi's often do.The beaches here are,however,quite attractive and very natural and never see the crowds that invade the beaches in Phuket and Krabi. Some Khao Lak beaches have rocky outcrops,others are quite shallow. But the sand is generally nice,the water is clear and most of the beaches are shaded by big trees, creating an ambiance ideal for absolute relaxation.

We entered the sea which at most times,was very calm with gentle waves allowing us to walk a long way inside.Every now and then the waves would embrace us with a soft bump and light lift before hitting the shore.We kept pushing Aryaan from one to another keeping a distance so that he could swim in the sea..We decided to walk further along the beach for our lunch today. Aryaan kept picking up shells(see above)with some help from me as the others went ahead.Here he is quenching his thirst for all that hard work.  
Went for a longish walk in the evening after the Sunset.Here are some photos in sequence.



Upon return from the walk we settled down for some wine at the beach listening to this wonderful singer and sang along with him.After an enjoyable half hour we returned to our rooms expecting the arrival of our niece Anavi,coming from Istanbul-Muscat-Bangkok-Phuket-Khao lak. She is 21, an avid traveler.

Anavi arrived in the evening and it was soon time for another Thai dinner. Off to BOOM BOOM again. After a round of Mojitos, beer, whiskey and coconut water which Aryaan requested in Thai..Na Maphrawwww,we got down to dinner.Later we had pancakes for dessert from the cart lady near Nanthong supermarket.Next morning at the pool Aryaan played "volleying the ball over" with the ladies and that was a lot of  fun.In the afternoon while we had a shut eye he was reading out to Anavi who was busy catching up with her messages

We booked a snorkeling tour for the next morning and were picked up and conveyed to the spot where a traditional Thai long boat was waiting.We waded in and seated ourselves for a long ride in the calm sea to a spot an hour away.The boat was moored allowing the snorkelers to get into the sea. Aryaan was held and guided by Bashir/Pooja and he was learning to wade on his own.They all spent upwards of half hour floating, swimming, shouting, drowning, pulling and the boatman was screaming asking them not to drift away from the reef.It was great fun they said.We elders enjoyed watching them.Then another boat ride followed beyond some great mangrove forests and we docked at the entrance of a forested area ready for our packed lunch.

We walked a bit and reached a shady area under the palms and what do we see? A serene,azure sea with an unspoiled and clean beach,This is the Kao Na Yak beach .

The beach sand was scorching hot under the mid-day sun but we took shelter under the Palms eating our lunch sipping juice in the shade lounging in easy-chairs.

Aryaan in the foreground,left

Snorkeling continued in the afternoon at another shallower reef and this time Aryaan was comfortable.After an enjoyable day in the sea we returned and dined at Ao Thong beach resort restaurant.Great food!

Next morning was the penultimate day of our stay and the day for Buddhist monks to come for Alms at our resort.Here they are.Resort guests are informed previously of their visit and they line up with food and juices to fill the monks' urns.
After another fun filled day at the pool and sea, we saw this lovely colour of the sky after Sunset. 

Early to bed and departed the resort at 4:30am for Phuket Airport.Bid Adieu to Bashir at the resort who was traveling  to Hongkong and Korea the next day and to Anavi who was taking a domestic flight to Bangkok to continue with her travel.

I would highly recommend Khao Lak 

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Rameswaram

Above Map of Rameswaram and Dhanushkodi is what prompted us to visit this island.Interesting isn't it.At lands end in Ramanathapuram district of Tamil Nadu,2 Hrs by road from Madurai, is this island made famous by the Ramayana epic of yore.For perspective,see Rameswaram on India map.

We hopped on  the night train from Chennai with little knowledge of what was to come.With progress comes knowledge and we learnt that we will not be taken all the way to R but will stop at a station this side of the Pamban bridge at 4 in the morning. Under better circumstances PB conveys the trains from the main land to R but PB was under repair and we had a  rickety bus ride for a half hour to cross over and get off at the  temple precinct,

Early morning filter Kaapi at the road side was a treat,the Barista using his best mixing technique, produced a  one- could- die- for brew which we enjoyed looking at the crowds making its way towards the  Gopuram entrance of the temple at the pre- dawn hour.
We were mistaken.
An enterprising Auto rickshaw approached us no sooner we handed over our empty coffee tumblers and was keen to drive us to our hotel which was at the very eastern tip of the island.We encountered much traffic of people and transport all jostling for space as we turned left from the  above said Gopuram and the driver clarified saying that the folks were walking towards the eastern or Main Gopuram /entrance of the temple.Soon we found ourselves speeding along the embankment of  sea,travelling on a good road at a good speed and the fresh sea breeze welcoming us amid the muffled sounds of the temple bell.Our journey stopped at SR Residency  with a good view of the sea.

The enterprising Auto driver said he was willing to show us around;He whipped out this Photo card neatly laminated for posterity and said that he will take us side seeing everywhere and Dhanushkodi too!
Hmmm..We were not on a pilgrimage to spend hours at various temples and Theertams (Wells/Tanks). We were tourists on a visit to get a peep at the "epic island".Which meant we could complete our trip this very day! Who can pass up such an offer. OK ,come and pick us up at 10 we said and disappeared into the Hotel.
At 9 we started our walk towards the main temple along the strand.The  sea breeze had abated and was replaced with scorching heat.
In about 20 min we came across hoards of devotees in the sea water in front of the temple.They were taking their first dip in "Agni Theertam" the holiest of the holy waters where Rama and his entourage had supposedly bathed after their victorious return from Lanka.On this day there was a motley crowd vying for space...chanting,praying silently and even shedding their clothes as a mark of washing away their sins to attain some degree of purity before proceeding to the Ramanathaswamy temple.

There they will take ritual dips in 22 wells before approaching Lord Shiva at the sanctum.

This Shiva Temple is one among the twelve Jyotirlingas in India.Some may wonder why Ramanathaswamy temple has a Shiva deity inside.The Shiva temple is believed to have been established and worshiped by Lord Rama to absolve the sins after the Lanka war with Ravana.

We approached the sanctum and found very many people had the same idea.Unexpectedly a man of authority came around and for a small consideration allowed us a peek at the Lord and we were done.Hall of 1000 pillars.The temple has some of the longest corridors that are impressive and we walked a portion of it before heading back.After a sumptuous breakfast we were ready for the auto ride.

Mr.Enterprise sent his father with a larger Auto for our tour.It could accommodate the three of us comfortably,
Once we left  the plush sea side surrounding of the hotel,it was a small scruffy fishing town that we encountered,with rickety narrow roads and lanes.Our first stop was at "Ramar Padam" ( Rama's feet).Perched on a hillock with a view of the backwaters a temple has sprung up to establish the legend that Rama stood here,gazing thoughtfully in the direction of Lanka and  contemplating his next move.The Pundit here worshiping  a pair of feet impressed on a brass plate was relating stories about Rama's objectives
This was followed by quick stops at various temples and water tanks per above photo card.
 
Rameshwaram is all about the epic Ramayana and, Hanuman cannot be too far behind! We were taken to the Panchmukhi Hanuman temple. This Temple is dedicated to a five-faced Hanuman,each head other than his representing those Gods that featured in the epic.I have never seen such a Hanuman before. The other interesting aspect of this temple is the famed floating stones that are kept here. These are believed to be the kind of  stones that were used by Rama to build the floating bridge from Dhanushkodi to Lanka,called Ram Setu or Adam's bridge
Mythology apart there is evidence pointing to a chain of shoals connecting Dhanushkodi with Mannar which went by the name of  Ram Setu,30 miles long.This bridge was completely above sea level until it broke in a Cyclone in 1480.

                    

                  The above pic shows the extent to which we could travel by road to reach land's end.


We left  town and sped leaving the chaotic traffic and soon the landscape changed.Cluttered traffic and tenements gave way to backwaters and palm trees.The road was excellent and free of traffic and we were clocking 50-60 Kmph and punching the breeze.Our driver turned left 20 minutes into our ride and took us to  Kodandaraman temple.This  temple gets its fame for being the hallowed venue for the Coronation of Vibeeshana as King of SL.
Back on the main road we traveled at great speed kicking up sand on the road side and getting showered with a salty spray.We could now see the relics of the old Dhanushkodi town which was blown away by the massive cyclone of 1964
Some History:

On the night of Dec 22,1964 while the Pamban-Dhanushkodi Passenger, was only a few hundred yards from Dhanushkodi Railway station it was hit by a massive tidal wave.The entire train was washed away killing all  on board.The tragedy that left no survivors also destroyed the Pamban bridge, which connects the mainland  to Rameshwaram island.Before the Cyclone,there was a train service up to Dhanushkodi called the Boat Mail from Chennai Egmore, which would halt on the south-eastern side of Dhanushkodi township, where a waiting steamer transported passengers and goods to Sri Lanka..There were hotels, textile shops and Dharmashalas catering to  pilgrims and travelers.It was a bustling town with a Church,small railway hospital,a higher secondary school, a post office, customs and port offices etc. 

Sadly these ruins are  all that is left

Water Tank and Rail station

Church

Post Office,School,Hospital

We continued on our journey to the meeting point of the ocean and sea.A very good road with beach on either side separates the two very large water bodies, Bay of Bengal on the left and the Indian Ocean on the right.We had reached the land's end and the wonderful new road  commissioned in 2016 stops here at the beach point.
We got down to wander at the Indian Ocean side of the beach and got our feet wet.It was reasonably crowded and the mid-day sun wasn't threatening.Photos were taken at the Asoka Pillar etc  and a bowl of large tasty pineapple eaten.
                                     

                                      

Our tryst with Dhanushkodi came to an end and we returned back  to town and our Hotel,but not before visiting our late President APJ Kalam's house now partly converted into a museum where his life and times as a scientist and President are well documented. All of the above in just under 5 hours and very comfortably too!
Meantime we received confirmation for travel back to Egmore tonight.

After a bit of RR we left the Hotel in search of  cool breeze outside and there was this jetty announcing short boat rides.We joined 25 others and sat donning life belts and braced ourselves for the ride.As we went away from the Jetty the wind increased and the sea became choppy and we we were pitched up,down and sideways by the swell making photography difficult.
We could see the skyline of Rameswaram ...temple Gopurams standing majestic as the Sun set gradually over the horizon.

We had achieved enough and more for a day and we were happy to partake an early meal and set off for our return to Chennai.

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P.S. Since our return I read that Pamban Bridge is once again functional for rail travel.

Abdul Kalam house