smell the sea and feel the surf
let your soul and spirit fly
I dedicate this Blog to my grandson Aryaan
On the western seaboard of Thailand facing the gorgeous Andaman sea lies Khao Lak an hour and half drive north of Phuket island.It is one of Thailand's most peaceful resort destinations.The surrounding hills embrace national parks that sweep down to this lovely stretch of coastline with beaches that go on for miles.It was a very early start for us... Vasumathi, Bashir, Pooja Aryaan and I ..A's mid term break at school giving us the opportunity to travel together.
Go Air took to the skies and flew over the A'sea to dock at Phuket Int'l airport at 08:30 am..Airport was bustling with tourists mostly from Europe and Russia. Immigration,baggage collection and Customs were quick and after some coffee at Starbucks we booked a comfortable car and were on our way. We stopped at a 7-Eleven store, of which there were plenty,for some Granola bars and had a drink of sweet cane sugar juice to slake our thirst.The Sun was up and we were experiencing Tamil Nadu weather being at the same latitude.However the nearness to large bodies of water all around made it pleasant and we reached our Resort by mid day.
Before the Tsunami of 2004 Khao lak was a sleepy place with just 3 Hotels.It had a few prawn farmers,some mining and a bit of rubber.The sands were stained black from the mines.It made a fresh start in a few years giving tourists a low-key alternative from the overcrowded and brash resorts in Phuket. Today,the sands are clean and it has upwards of 15000 rooms shared between resorts and boutique hotels catering to a large variety of tourists from Germany,Russia,China,India and Australia among others.
We were greeted with a cheery smile at Manathai resort and Sawadeeka aah,uttered in a sing song style with folded palms and a slight bow..We were treated to some delicious watermelon juice and marched off to our rooms. Must mention that Aryaan has been here with his parents twice before and was already switched on to enter the pool.
But let me explain the layout. Our room had a lovely patio at the back opening to a well manicured lawn hemmed in by shrubs and hedges.Down the middle ran a pathway of flagstones leading all the way to a large pool with a Jacuzzi. Further up were the swaying palm of coconut trees providing shade to the guests lounging by the pool side or those who preferred to watch the azure sea that was a wonderful sight for tired eyes. There was not a ship or boat in sight.
Just like in Goa,here too there are shacks just by the side of the property for massage,laundry,tours and taxis,food and drink.Little wonder then that the many restaurants at the resort wear a bare look except during breakfast when an elaborate buffet is laid out for the multitude to dine.
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| Pad Thai |
It was nearing 3pm and hunger pangs had set in.We pulled Aryaan out of the pool and sat at this Food shack called Lom Lay.To begin with we all had around of chilled tender coconut water...the expression "so sweet" must have originated in Thailand, surely! I for one have never sipped C'water as sweet.An assortment of Thai food was ordered with chicken,pork and shrimps.For Aryaan it was Pad Thai or egg fried rice with eggs with a mango juice. For those uninitiated Pad Thai is a noodle stir fry with a sweet-savory-sour sauce scattered with crushed peanuts. It’s made with thin,flat rice noodles,and almost always has bean sprouts, garlic chives, scrambled egg, firm tofu and a protein – the most popular being chicken or prawns/shrimp.At the end of the meal they would invariably serve a fruit plate comprising pineapple and water melon and mangoes too.Talking of Coconuts,here is a notice that I found stuck in the beach sand.
A couple can have dinner by the beach side under soft lights,an exclusive dinner party for a select group or even get engaged here. In fact we saw a couple getting engaged!
Aryaan showed his prowess in the pool by doing back flips and rolls. The pic on the right shows him with a plastic thingamajig weighted on both ends to form an arch underwater.He would glide through it easily without upsetting it.He was ready for snorkeling he said and that's when we thought of going shopping in the evening.
In less than 15 minutes of driving,past the many resorts,is the main shopping area.The star attraction is the Nanthong supermarket which attracts a hoard of tourists living in BnB's,leased apartments etc to meet their daily needs.It is certainly better than the average 7/11. It has a great range of fresh bakery and a decent wine section (but certainly not cheap!)At the entrance stands a Thai lady with a cart making pancakes!Further up you can shop to your heart's content at the many retailers. There is a smattering of carts dishing out snacks and local delicacies. And there are restaurants, bars,tour agencies,money changers et al.
We bought the snorkeling mask and headed for dinner at Boom Boom restaurant and bar.It is on a dirt road but the food was good and staff very friendly.It is a misconception that all Thai food is extra spicy.There are many dishes that taste good with medium spice and are easy on the mouth and stomach.In many places we chose seafood like whole fish and had it cooked to our liking.
We would seat Aryaan with his breakfast first and then go and fill our plates to the brim.There is excellent coffee that she keeps pouring into the cup..and you are confused between juice (fresh and chilled),Fruits(Wow) and Coffee the aroma of which reaches all the way to the Pool. Poor stomach..it is tempted by too many good things only to"strike"later. Aryaan had no choice but to spend time eating what with the elders making regular visits to the buffet table for re-fills.
Walk to the Pool was therapeutic with all the food swimming inside.It is a good 400 meters but the Sun is not harsh yet! I assembled Aryaan's snorkeling gear (mask) which fitted snug on his face.Immediately he jumped into the pool and barring interruptions for minor adjustments swam like an ace! Here he is.We decided to take him snorkeling in the sea on another day.
Khao Lak's many beaches extending to 25 Kms don't get listed among the world's most beautiful, as Krabi's often do.The beaches here are,however,quite attractive and very natural and never see the crowds that invade the beaches in Phuket and Krabi. Some Khao Lak beaches have rocky outcrops,others are quite shallow. But the sand is generally nice,the water is clear and most of the beaches are shaded by big trees, creating an ambiance ideal for absolute relaxation.
We entered the sea which at most times,was very calm with gentle waves allowing us to walk a long way inside.Every now and then the waves would embrace us with a soft bump and light lift before hitting the shore.We kept pushing Aryaan from one to another keeping a distance so that he could swim in the sea..We decided to walk further along the beach for our lunch today. Aryaan kept picking up shells(see above)with some help from me as the others went ahead.Here he is quenching his thirst for all that hard work. Went for a longish walk in the evening after the Sunset.Here are some photos in sequence.
Upon return from the walk we settled down for some wine at the beach listening to this wonderful singer and sang along with him.After an enjoyable half hour we returned to our rooms expecting the arrival of our niece Anavi,coming from Istanbul-Muscat-Bangkok-Phuket-Khao lak. She is 21, an avid traveler.
Anavi arrived in the evening and it was soon time for another Thai dinner. Off to BOOM BOOM again. After a round of Mojitos, beer, whiskey and coconut water which Aryaan requested in Thai..Na Maphrawwww,we got down to dinner.Later we had pancakes for dessert from the cart lady near Nanthong supermarket.Next morning at the pool Aryaan played "volleying the ball over" with the ladies and that was a lot of fun.In the afternoon while we had a shut eye he was reading out to Anavi who was busy catching up with her messages
We booked a snorkeling tour for the next morning and were picked up and conveyed to the spot where a traditional Thai long boat was waiting.We waded in and seated ourselves for a long ride in the calm sea to a spot an hour away.The boat was moored allowing the snorkelers to get into the sea. Aryaan was held and guided by Bashir/Pooja and he was learning to wade on his own.They all spent upwards of half hour floating, swimming, shouting, drowning, pulling and the boatman was screaming asking them not to drift away from the reef.It was great fun they said.We elders enjoyed watching them.Then another boat ride followed beyond some great mangrove forests and we docked at the entrance of a forested area ready for our packed lunch.
We walked a bit and reached a shady area under the palms and what do we see? A serene,azure sea with an unspoiled and clean beach,This is the Kao Na Yak beach .
The beach sand was scorching hot under the mid-day sun but we took shelter under the Palms eating our lunch sipping juice in the shade lounging in easy-chairs.
Snorkeling continued in the afternoon at another shallower reef and this time Aryaan was comfortable.After an enjoyable day in the sea we returned and dined at Ao Thong beach resort restaurant.Great food!
Next morning was the penultimate day of our stay and the day for Buddhist monks to come for Alms at our resort.Here they are.Resort guests are informed previously of their visit and they line up with food and juices to fill the monks' urns.
After another fun filled day at the pool and sea, we saw this lovely colour of the sky after Sunset.
Early to bed and departed the resort at 4:30am for Phuket Airport.Bid Adieu to Bashir at the resort who was traveling to Hongkong and Korea the next day and to Anavi who was taking a domestic flight to Bangkok to continue with her travel.
I would highly recommend Khao Lak
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The beach sand was scorching hot under the mid-day sun but we took shelter under the Palms eating our lunch sipping juice in the shade lounging in easy-chairs. |
| Aryaan in the foreground,left |
Next morning was the penultimate day of our stay and the day for Buddhist monks to come for Alms at our resort.Here they are.Resort guests are informed previously of their visit and they line up with food and juices to fill the monks' urns.
After another fun filled day at the pool and sea, we saw this lovely colour of the sky after Sunset.
Early to bed and departed the resort at 4:30am for Phuket Airport.Bid Adieu to Bashir at the resort who was traveling to Hongkong and Korea the next day and to Anavi who was taking a domestic flight to Bangkok to continue with her travel.
I would highly recommend Khao Lak
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