Rameswaram

Above Map of Rameswaram and Dhanushkodi is what prompted us to visit this island.Interesting isn't it.At lands end in Ramanathapuram district of Tamil Nadu,2 Hrs by road from Madurai, is this island made famous by the Ramayana epic of yore.For perspective,see Rameswaram on India map.

We hopped on  the night train from Chennai with little knowledge of what was to come.With progress comes knowledge and we learnt that we will not be taken all the way to R but will stop at a station this side of the Pamban bridge at 4 in the morning. Under better circumstances PB conveys the trains from the main land to R but PB was under repair and we had a  rickety bus ride for a half hour to cross over and get off at the  temple precinct,

Early morning filter Kaapi at the road side was a treat,the Barista using his best mixing technique, produced a  one- could- die- for brew which we enjoyed looking at the crowds making its way towards the  Gopuram entrance of the temple at the pre- dawn hour.
We were mistaken.
An enterprising Auto rickshaw approached us no sooner we handed over our empty coffee tumblers and was keen to drive us to our hotel which was at the very eastern tip of the island.We encountered much traffic of people and transport all jostling for space as we turned left from the  above said Gopuram and the driver clarified saying that the folks were walking towards the eastern or Main Gopuram /entrance of the temple.Soon we found ourselves speeding along the embankment of  sea,travelling on a good road at a good speed and the fresh sea breeze welcoming us amid the muffled sounds of the temple bell.Our journey stopped at SR Residency  with a good view of the sea.

The enterprising Auto driver said he was willing to show us around;He whipped out this Photo card neatly laminated for posterity and said that he will take us side seeing everywhere and Dhanushkodi too!
Hmmm..We were not on a pilgrimage to spend hours at various temples and Theertams (Wells/Tanks). We were tourists on a visit to get a peep at the "epic island".Which meant we could complete our trip this very day! Who can pass up such an offer. OK ,come and pick us up at 10 we said and disappeared into the Hotel.
At 9 we started our walk towards the main temple along the strand.The  sea breeze had abated and was replaced with scorching heat.
In about 20 min we came across hoards of devotees in the sea water in front of the temple.They were taking their first dip in "Agni Theertam" the holiest of the holy waters where Rama and his entourage had supposedly bathed after their victorious return from Lanka.On this day there was a motley crowd vying for space...chanting,praying silently and even shedding their clothes as a mark of washing away their sins to attain some degree of purity before proceeding to the Ramanathaswamy temple.

There they will take ritual dips in 22 wells before approaching Lord Shiva at the sanctum.

This Shiva Temple is one among the twelve Jyotirlingas in India.Some may wonder why Ramanathaswamy temple has a Shiva deity inside.The Shiva temple is believed to have been established and worshiped by Lord Rama to absolve the sins after the Lanka war with Ravana.

We approached the sanctum and found very many people had the same idea.Unexpectedly a man of authority came around and for a small consideration allowed us a peek at the Lord and we were done.Hall of 1000 pillars.The temple has some of the longest corridors that are impressive and we walked a portion of it before heading back.After a sumptuous breakfast we were ready for the auto ride.

Mr.Enterprise sent his father with a larger Auto for our tour.It could accommodate the three of us comfortably,
Once we left  the plush sea side surrounding of the hotel,it was a small scruffy fishing town that we encountered,with rickety narrow roads and lanes.Our first stop was at "Ramar Padam" ( Rama's feet).Perched on a hillock with a view of the backwaters a temple has sprung up to establish the legend that Rama stood here,gazing thoughtfully in the direction of Lanka and  contemplating his next move.The Pundit here worshiping  a pair of feet impressed on a brass plate was relating stories about Rama's objectives
This was followed by quick stops at various temples and water tanks per above photo card.
 
Rameshwaram is all about the epic Ramayana and, Hanuman cannot be too far behind! We were taken to the Panchmukhi Hanuman temple. This Temple is dedicated to a five-faced Hanuman,each head other than his representing those Gods that featured in the epic.I have never seen such a Hanuman before. The other interesting aspect of this temple is the famed floating stones that are kept here. These are believed to be the kind of  stones that were used by Rama to build the floating bridge from Dhanushkodi to Lanka,called Ram Setu or Adam's bridge
Mythology apart there is evidence pointing to a chain of shoals connecting Dhanushkodi with Mannar which went by the name of  Ram Setu,30 miles long.This bridge was completely above sea level until it broke in a Cyclone in 1480.

                    

                  The above pic shows the extent to which we could travel by road to reach land's end.


We left  town and sped leaving the chaotic traffic and soon the landscape changed.Cluttered traffic and tenements gave way to backwaters and palm trees.The road was excellent and free of traffic and we were clocking 50-60 Kmph and punching the breeze.Our driver turned left 20 minutes into our ride and took us to  Kodandaraman temple.This  temple gets its fame for being the hallowed venue for the Coronation of Vibeeshana as King of SL.
Back on the main road we traveled at great speed kicking up sand on the road side and getting showered with a salty spray.We could now see the relics of the old Dhanushkodi town which was blown away by the massive cyclone of 1964
Some History:

On the night of Dec 22,1964 while the Pamban-Dhanushkodi Passenger, was only a few hundred yards from Dhanushkodi Railway station it was hit by a massive tidal wave.The entire train was washed away killing all  on board.The tragedy that left no survivors also destroyed the Pamban bridge, which connects the mainland  to Rameshwaram island.Before the Cyclone,there was a train service up to Dhanushkodi called the Boat Mail from Chennai Egmore, which would halt on the south-eastern side of Dhanushkodi township, where a waiting steamer transported passengers and goods to Sri Lanka..There were hotels, textile shops and Dharmashalas catering to  pilgrims and travelers.It was a bustling town with a Church,small railway hospital,a higher secondary school, a post office, customs and port offices etc. 

Sadly these ruins are  all that is left

Water Tank and Rail station

Church

Post Office,School,Hospital

We continued on our journey to the meeting point of the ocean and sea.A very good road with beach on either side separates the two very large water bodies, Bay of Bengal on the left and the Indian Ocean on the right.We had reached the land's end and the wonderful new road  commissioned in 2016 stops here at the beach point.
We got down to wander at the Indian Ocean side of the beach and got our feet wet.It was reasonably crowded and the mid-day sun wasn't threatening.Photos were taken at the Asoka Pillar etc  and a bowl of large tasty pineapple eaten.
                                     

                                      

Our tryst with Dhanushkodi came to an end and we returned back  to town and our Hotel,but not before visiting our late President APJ Kalam's house now partly converted into a museum where his life and times as a scientist and President are well documented. All of the above in just under 5 hours and very comfortably too!
Meantime we received confirmation for travel back to Egmore tonight.

After a bit of RR we left the Hotel in search of  cool breeze outside and there was this jetty announcing short boat rides.We joined 25 others and sat donning life belts and braced ourselves for the ride.As we went away from the Jetty the wind increased and the sea became choppy and we we were pitched up,down and sideways by the swell making photography difficult.
We could see the skyline of Rameswaram ...temple Gopurams standing majestic as the Sun set gradually over the horizon.

We had achieved enough and more for a day and we were happy to partake an early meal and set off for our return to Chennai.

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P.S. Since our return I read that Pamban Bridge is once again functional for rail travel.

Abdul Kalam house